The government is not so arbitrary and oppressive, as in many other parts more immediately under the Turkish controul; this may arise from their distance from the seat of government, and from their struggles for independence, a memorable instance of which recently happened.

The Beys still retain great influence, and the chiefs of several Arab tribes may be said to be quite independent of the Turkish government, who, although they have a viceroy or bashaw at Cairo, cannot carry any measure into effect, without consulting the native chiefs, and obtaining their sanction; the Turkish government therefore are cautious how they infringe the liberties of these people.

CHAP. XVIII.

Alarming Tempest-Perilous Situation-Necessitated to cut away Boats-Exertions to secure the Remainder-Difficulty and Danger attending it-Two Seamen perish in the Attempt Cessation of the StormMelancholy Spectacle of Wrecks and Dead Bodies on the Shore-Termination of the Gale-Supplies-Pleasing View-Sirocco, or Winds of the Desart-Gloomy Appearance--Distressing Effects--Appearance of Disease-Apprehensions of the Plague -Sudden Change--Reviving breezesReflections-Night Scene--Remarkable Prophecy-Nile-Its Course-Cause of Fertility-Canals and Reservoirs-Mildness of the Winter-Overflowing of the Nile-Anniversary thereof.

ON the fourth of April we were overtaken with a heavy gale from the sea. It began with fresh breezes and cloudy weather, soon increased to fresh gales, and squally,

with rain, and lightning, from almost every part of the horizon, with a ground swell. We struck our masts, and prepared to receive it. In the course of twenty-four hours it increased to such a degree, that the bowsprit of ous vessel pitched under the waves, and we were necessitated to cut away our best and largest boat from the stern, to ease the dreadful plunges of the ship; this caused an anxiety to secure the other boat, which was still under the stern, for which purpose several seamen came forward, and offered their services to perform the most difficult and dangerous part of the business, that of going over the stern and hooking her on, in order for hoisting up: five men descended for this purpose, got safely into the boats, gained the tackles, and made every exertion for a successful issue; but alas! while one hook only had taken, the ship gave several dreadful plunges, lifted the boat by one end only, at her descent filled her with water, and shook and washed the men out. With anxious eyes we beheld them struggling with the mighty waves, and by throwing buoyant things

and other exertions, providentially rescued three out of the five from a watery grave. The next morning was beheld numerous wrecks of boats, and several corpses were drifted on the beach. The wind ceased, and a general gloom pervaded the ship's company at the loss of their comrades and sharers in a long series of toils and dangers.

We now received considerable supplies of poultry, mutton, eggs, fine fruits, and fish, and were refreshed with reviving sea breezes, which prevail on this coast, which, together with a comprehensive view from Aboukir Castle to the mouth of the Nile, including the landscape near Rosetta, gratified the eye, and invigorated the body. This view of the vicinity of Rosetta becomes peculiarly grateful when the eye has been long fatigued, and the animal spirits become languid in traversing the extensive and hot sands adjoining.

The setting sun in this country is a sight which excels any sight I ever saw or could

conceive. The majestic appearance of its orb, the splendour and peculiar softness of its rays, the variegated and vivid colours of the surrounding clouds, with the remarkable reflection on the glassy wave, and the agree. able serenity of the atmosphere, conspire to form a sublime and delightful prospect.

"Low walks the sun, and broadens by degrees,

65

Just o'er the verge of day. The shifting clouds

Assembled gay, a richly gorgeous train,

"In all their pomp attend his sitting throne.

Air, ǝarth, and ocean smile immense,

"And now he dips his orb ;

"Now half immers'd; and now a golden curve

"Gives one bright glance, then total disappears."

THOMSON.

This pleasant weather, and these beautiful appearances, continued, with a very short intermission, till the 22d of May, when we were surrounded with a gloomy contrast indeed.

It began with variable winds, inclinable to calms, attended with an uncomfortable warmth; at length the wind fixed itself in the S. E. in the direction of the desart, and ·