CHAP. XIII.

Departure from Rhodes-Enter the Gulf of Macri-Water Spouts-Macri—Sublimity of its first Appearance-Secure and spacious Harbour-Ruins--Inhabitants--Tour to Kia-Mountainous Country-Much in want of a Guide and Interpreter- Remarks on Cultivation-Beauty of several ValesApproach the Suburbs-Forbidding Aspect of several of its Inhabitants-Consultation thereon-Consternation and Retreat of se-veral of the Females, with their ChildrenInterview with several of the GrandeesDifficulty of making them Comprehend our want of Food-Refreshment, and Company during Dinner-Present State of the Country-Reflections-Departure--Surprize of the Inhabitants, turned into Curiosity-Meet a Caravan-Providential Preservation, and Return on Board-Hint to Mariners-Departure..

LEAVING Rhodes, a few hours of a favourable breeze brought us near the coast

of Asia Minor, and early the following morning, we entered the gulf and harbour of Macri.

About day-light the atmosphere was unsettled and squally, and we were soon under serious apprehensions of danger from several water spouts near us, which if falling on our ship, would, probably, instantly have sunk her, or even near, might have drawn her into the dreadful abyss.

Approaching they descry

"A liquid column lowering, shoot on high,
"The foaming base, an angry whirlwind sweeps,
"Where curling billows rouse the fearful deeps.
"Still round and round the florid vortex flies,
"Scattering dun night and horror through the skies;
"The swift volution and th' enormous train
"Let sages vers'd in nature's lore explain.
"The horrid apparition stills draws nigh

"And white with foam the whirling surges fly.

"But soon, this transient undulation o'er

"The sea subsides, the whirlwinds rage no more."

FALCONER.

And we were soon gratefully relieved from a gloomy atmosphere, by the auspi

cious regent of the day, bursting through with his morning splendour.

The weather became more serene, the day delightful and we were wafted gently along this interesting coast and bay, whose majestic ridges of mountains, capped with snow, towered far above the more diminutive eminences near the coast, till by a narrow channel, we entered a noble harbour, capable of containing fleets in its. capacious bosom, and which surrounded with hills and mountains, seemed to enclose us from every blast, and presented again in miniature, scenes that we had just left, when in the gulf.

On the right-hand side, near the entrance, stands the town, situated at the bottom of several hills, which abound with catacombs dug in the solid rock. No sooner were we at anchor, than my anxiety increased to visit these once flourishing, but now comparatively desolated places.

The town or village is pleasantly situ

ated, having a beautiful declivity of verdure on one side; abrupt mountains and precipices behind; and, on the other side, in a fine arbour, vestiges of an handsome building; a spacious harbour in front, with several ruins on an island at the entrance, and lofty mountains and eminences all round.

It is irregularly built, and rather dirty; the inhabitants appear numerous, but, in general, exhibit indolence and wretchedness in their various disgusting forms; but from many of them we experienced a degree of hospitality unexpected; and, therefore, considerably the more pleasing, and by it we received a lesson to guard against that proneness in mankind, which is so apt to form a judgment from external appearances only, and to get prepossessed without investigation.

Near the town stands in striking contrast, the ruins above-mentioned, which on a nearer inspection, appeared to be the vestiges of a handsome amphitheatre and other

ruins of antiquity; the amphitheatre ap. pears to have been principally of the Corinthian order of architecture, and the part fronting towards the harbour to have formed a regular and lofty arch. It is situated on rising ground, between two hills, and has a gentle descent towards the harbour, of which and the surrounding mountains, it has a comprehensive view.

The appearances of the morning sun, rising above these snow-capped mountains, and bursting with powerful splendour on the deep vale, which contains the harbour, &c. are very grand and enlivening, and remind me of the following lines:

"Yonder comes the powerful king of day,

Rejoicing in the east. The lessening cloud, "The kindling azure, and the mountains brow, "Illum'd with fluid gold, his near approach "Betoken glad Lo! now apparent all,

Aslant the dew bright earth, and colour'd air: "He looks in boundless majesty abroad;

"And sheds the shining day, that burnish'd plays

On rocks, and hills, and towers, and wandering streams,