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Secluded situation of the Vaudois-Derivation of their name
-Inducements to make the excursion-Peyrani's letter
-Romantic accounts of Waldensian heroism-Passage
across the Channel from Dover to Calais-Fog at sea-
Dull journey from Calais to Paris-French equestrians
and sportsmen-Awkward machinery-Frightful-looking
crucifix-State of religion in Paris-Chapel of British
Ambassador-English Liturgy-Leave Paris-Journey
towards the South of France-Forest of Fontainbleau-
Nemours-Moonlight Scenery-Old châteaus-Sabbath
in France-Sabbath day in England-Its effect on the
character of the nation-Nevers-Anecdote-Moulins-
Inscription in the cathedral-Votive tablets-Sterne-
Poor Maria-Village near Moulins-Landscape-Appear-
ance of plenty-Palisse-French traveller-Road from
Palisse to Lyons-Lyons-Rousseau-Les Etroits-Li-
brary of Lyons-Caligula's edict-Charitable Institutions
at Lyons-Hôtel Dieu-Veterinary school-Magnificence
of Lyons-Alarm of fire at night-Peter Waldo-The re-
former of Lyons--Waldo's translation of the Scriptures-
Waldo persecuted-Flies from Lyons-Death of Waldo-
Waldo, not the founder of the Waldensian church—Anti-
quity of the Vaudois-Rainerus, the inquisitor-The Vau-
dois reformers anterior to those of Lyons-Attend Pro-
testant chapel-Extempore preaching-Communion ser-
vice in Protestant chapel-Organ-Sacred music.....
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1
CHAPTER II.
Leave Lyons-Severe winter-Scenery in France-Com-
pared with landscapes in England-French and English
villages-Gaul and Britain on ancient medals-Hannibal's
passage of the Alps-Discovery of a silver votive buck-
ler-Pont de Beauvoisin-Letters examined-Enter Sa-
voy-The river Guiers-Melancholy condition of the pea-
santry of Savoy-Sterne's Sentimental Journey-Addi-
son's remarks on several parts of Italy-Tremendous
pass-La Chaille-Les Echelles-Montagna della Grotta
-Charles Emanuel II :-The persecutor of the Vaudois-
Enter the defile of Aiguebelle-The river Arc-A French
disputant-Description of the passage of the Alps-The
various features of the mountain-Cultivation-----Vines
View of sun-rise among the Alps-Cascades-Torrents-
Masses of ice-Alpine Sublimity-Fortress on the moun-
tain-Lans-le-bourg-Mount Cenis-Cross the mountain
on a sledge-Description of the grand route over Mount
Cenis-Attack of the French upon Mount Cenis-Hospice
-Plain of St. Nicholas-Murat-Traineaus-Mountain
prospects-View of Italy from the Alps-Hannibal-Po-
lybius-Livy-Route of the Carthaginian army........ 27
CHAPTER III.
Arrive at Turin-Priests and officers- Monks-Penitents
-Popish cathedral service-Effect on the Imagination—
Chapel of the British minister-A Vaudois pastor-Elo-
quent appeal-Badness of the weather-The Superga-
Victor Amadeus II.-Prince Eugene-Meeting of Eugene
and Amadeus-Persecutions of the Vaudois-France and
Savoy attack the Protestants-Henri Arnaud-Imprison-
ment of the whole Protestant population-Thousands pe-
rish in the jails-Flight of the Vaudois to Switzerland-
Restored to their country-Reconciled to their sovereign
-Victor Amadeus and the Duke of Marlborough-M.
Vertu-Distressed English lady-Bigotry-Opera at Tu-
rin-King of Sardinia-George the Fourth-Revolution-
ary movements in Roman Catholic countries.
46
CHAPTER IV.
Leave Turin for the valleys-The Po-Face of the coun-
try-Irrigation-Pinerolo-Popish hospital-Infant steal-
ing-Edict of Victor Amadeus-Defile between Pinerolo
and Fenestrelle-Valley of the Clusone-Inn at Perosa—
Excellent fare-Pomaretto-Mountain torrents-A Vau-
dois village-Presbytery of Pomaretto-Rodolphe Pey-
rani-Moderator of the Vaudois-His extreme poverty
and sufferings-Erudition of Peyrani-Interesting con-
versation-Pattern of Christian mildness-The modera-
tor's library-Sold to purchase the necessaries of life-
Episcopacy among the Vaudois-Reduced numbers of the
Vaudois-Innovations-Waldensian church-Church of
England-Persecutions-The Protestant valleys of Pie-
mont, the cradle of the Reformation-Wickliffe-Lollards
-Doctrines of the Vaudois not Calvinistic-Peyrani, and
Napoleon's pension to the Vaudois-The pastor Rostaing
-His extreme poverty-Toilsome duties of the Vaudois
clergy-British pension to the pastors of the Vaudois-
The Count Truchsess-Emperor Alexander-New hos-
pital at La Torre-Letter from the valleys-Suspension
of the royal pension-Collection for the Vaudois during
the Protectorate-Oliver Cromwell establishes a fund for
the Vaudois-King William III.-Noble character of
Peyrani-Lord William Bentinck-Victor Emanuel, late
king-Anecdote-Ferdinand Peyrani, pastor of Pramol-
Parting with Peyrani-Reduced condition of the Wal-
densian church-Death of Peyrani-The moderator's son
in poverty at Lausanne-Peyrani's admirable pamphlet
Anecdote
CHAPTER V.
Leave Pomaretto-Alpine scenery-Pinerolo-Ancient inn
-Excursion to the valley of Luzerna-Mount Viso-In-
tolerance Anecdote-Vaudois Heroism-Anecdote-
Patriarchal Simplicity-Church of San Giovanni-Lu-
dicrous Bigotry-Lovely vale of San Giovanni-Beautiful
Landscape-La Torre-Too frequent intermarriages-
Church of La Torre-Its romantic situation-M. Bert-
Attended service in the Church-Monumental inscriptions
-Peasantry-Village inn and accommodation-Murder-
ous plot against the Protestants-M. Odetti―The plot—
Fanaticism-Rendezvous of conspirators-General Godin
-March of the Vaudois soldiers for the preservation of
their families-Threatened by the torrents-Vespers' bell,
signal of destruction-Work of assassination-The assas-
sins-Retribution-Injustice-General Zimmerman—
Immunities and privileges granted to the Vaudois-
Grievances of the Vaudois-Absurd restrictions-Im-
posts-Disqualifications-Agriculture-Trade-Laugh-
able mistake
100
CHAPTER VI.
Angrogna-La Barricade-Cultivation-Cheerful Land-
scape-Sabbath on the mountains-Religious and moral
character of mountaineers-Village pastor's house-M.
Paul Goante-Alpine cottages-Thuanus-Want of reli-
gious books-Peasant of Angrogna-Mode of tillage-
Mountain fastnesses-La Vachera-Pre du Tour-Ob-
stinate and gallant conflicts there-Sublime mountain
scenery-The Bouquetin-The Jumarre-Beautiful vale
-Comparison between solitary and busy life-The for-
tress of La Torre......
122
CONTENTS.
xxi
CHAPTER VII.
Fall of snow-Valley of San Martino-M. Bert-Vaudois
soldier-The Pelice torrent-Game on the mountains-
Anecdote-Traditionary tales-Le Bric Casteluzzo-
Immense cavern-Industry of the Vaudois-The witness
of the wilderness-Shrines-Le Pilori Taviere-Villaro
-Inquisitors-Church of Villaro-Pastors of the Vaudois
-Their ministerial labours-Attempts to seduce the
Vaudois from their faith-Unsuccessful-The confessional
-Popish rituals-The young penitent-Pope Braschi,
Pius VI.-Anecdotes-Dominican monk-Testimonies
in favour of the Vaudois-M. Gay, pastor of Villaro
CHAPTER VIII.
Bobbio-Magnificent scenery-Breakwater or rampart of
Bobbio-Anecdote-Humanity of the Vaudois-Cate-
chetical instruction-Church of Bobbio-M. Muston,
pastor of Bobbio-Repast at the Presbytery-Papists and
the second Commandment-Infant baptism-Vaudois, not
fanatics-Anecdote-A rural sketch-Retrospect-Henri
Arnaud-Enterprizing achievement-March of the exiles
-La Roche Blanche The pass of Salabertrand forced-
Martial enthusiasm-Anecdote of Arnaud-Intrepidity of
the Vaudois-Fastnesses of San Martino-Guerilla war-
fare-Fortress of Baceglia-Tremendous pass-Sangui-
nary conflicts-Affecting anecdote-Termination of the
contest-Boyer's narrative
CHAPTER IX.
Rora-Its secluded situation-Retrospect-Gratitude of
Victor Amadeus II.-Exploits of Gianavello-Treachery
of the Marquis di Pianezza-Heroic defence of Rora-
Massacre at Rora-Last achievements of Gianavello-
140
162