158 INFLUENCE OF POPISH SERVICES-DOMINICAN MONK.

ing, that they have more pleasure in attending the service of the Roman Church than their own, but pleasure surely is not the aim of any form of worship; if it be, I should conceive, that such an aim might be more certainly reached, with most people, by means of the ball-room or the theatre, than by any religious paraphernalia, however strongly such adjuncts might appeal to the senses. "The grand spectacle of an illuminated cathedral," and "the music of psalms tuned to the modulation of Greek chorusses," may be more pleasing to the fancy than the "dull services" of a parish church in England, or of a lowly temple at the foot of the Alps; but until the morals of the votaries, who kneel before the burning cross of St. Peter's, on the solemn vigil of the resurrection, are believed to be as pure as those of the peasantry of my own country, or of the Protestant inhabitants of the valleys of Piemont, I shall continue to feel persuaded, that simplicity of worship is the best promoter of active and efficient religion.

All that I heard and saw gave me the gratifying assurance, that the Vaudois of the present day are not unworthy of the character, which was wrung, in times past, from some of their bitterest enemies, even when employed in endeavouring to detect a subject for criminal accusations. “I wish,” said one of these inquisitors, in a moment of remorse, for having been instrumental in persecuting the Waldenses of Frassiniere, when that valley was inhabited by the professors of the Protestant faith, "I wish that I were as good a Christian, as the worst of them!" This man was constrained, by the force of truth, to make such a report to Lewis the Twelfth of France, that he at once silenced the importunities of his advisers, exclaiming in a force of indignation, which put an end to their importunities, "By the holy mother of God, these heretics, whom you urge me to destroy, are better men than you, or myself, or any of my subjects."

"I allow," said a furious Dominican monk, whose zeal

MORALS OF THE VAUDois.

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was not much less furious than that of the inhuman Dominic, the founder of his order, and the firebrand who kindled the flames of the inquisition, "I allow, in morals and life, they are good, true in words, and unanimous in brotherly love, but their faith is incorrigible and vile." The observation of the author from whom I have taken this anecdote is unanswerable; "How could the Romanist suppose that the faith of men could be bad, whose fruits were so excellent; could he shew such fruits in the Roman church in general at that time?"

When the Protestant Vaudois extended into the province of Saluzzo, or Marquisate of Saluches, then under the French sovereignty, the governor, Birague, received orders from his court, to commence an active search after all such as refused to attend the celebration of mass, and to put them to death. The governor communicated the orders to his council. A Roman Catholic archdeacon who was present, rose, and made the following bold and honest remonstrance, in favour of these proscribed victims. "Assuredly his majesty the King of France must have received some very false, and malicious information, concerning these poor people. We must delay the execution of this edict, until his majesty can be made acquainted with the real character of this portion of his Italian subjects, who are good and honourable men, well disposed, and faithful in his service, and live peaceably with their Roman Catholic neighbours." This manly and candid testimony, so honourable both to the Protestants and their amiable advocate, was the means of saving their lives, for that time at least. The murderous intention was at first suspended, and afterwards abandoned till another opportunity.

But a still more affecting proof of the high estimation, in which the moral character of the Vaudois was held, even by those who would have gladly seen their extermination,

" Milner.

occurred at La Torre, about the year 1560. Emanuel Philibert, the reigning Duke of Savoy at that period, was favourably inclined towards his Protestant subjects, and, for a length of time, resisted all the importunities, which were made to every new sovereign to give a proof of his zeal for the Roman Catholic faith, by publishing fresh penal laws against heretics. The perseverance of the bigoted Philip II. of Spain, at length prevailed over the Duke's scruples of humanity, and a lighted torch was once more thrown into these devoted valleys. A sanguinary army carried fire and sword into every village; and no other expedient was left, but for the Vaudois to abandon the low country, and take refuge among the mountains, while the enemy occupied San Giovanni, La Torre, and Villaro. The Roman Catholic families would have remained; but the licentious conduct of the soldiery was such, that all the young females of La Torre put themselves under the protection of the Protestants, who had retired behind the fastnesses of Angrogna, rather than be exposed to the brutality of men, who came to extirpate heresy, and vindicate the honour of the Roman Catholic religion'.

Two hundred years ago, in the midst of the bitterest animosities, the honesty and attachment of Vaudois servants were so generally acknowledged, that, it was well known, none of the Popish nobility of the provinces would hire persons of their own faith, as long as they could persuade

+ This anecdote is confirmed by Thuanus, an historian who hated the Vaudois, but was too candid to withhold the truth. His words are these: "Præcipue castitatis cura et honos inter Valdenses, adeo ut Vicini, qui alioqui ab eorum religione alieni erant, ut filiarum suarum pudicitiæ consulerent, vim a licentioso milite veriti, eas Valdensium curæ et fidelitati committebant."

"The chastity of the Waldenses is so well known, and held in such high repute, that their neighbours, who were at variance with them on subjects of religion, entrusted the honour of their daughters to their protection and fidelity, when they were fearful of the consequences that might result from the presence of a licentious soldiery."

1

the Protestants to enter their service". It is the same at the present day; and I was repeatedly assured, both at Turin and Genoa, that the Vaudois servants are preferred before all others.

M. Gay, the pastor of Villaro, was so deeply engaged with his pastoral duties, that we had the benefit of very little of his conversation. His parish is considered the least healthy of any in the valley of Luzerna; and we observed that his countenance and voice indicated illness. He is about thirty-six, or thirty-seven years of age, has a young family to add to his anxieties, and seems well qualified to give them an education above the humble sphere of their probable destination. The manners and acquirements of M. Gay are of a degree beyond what is expected at a place like Villaro, which reminded me very much of some of our small fishing towns in England. The presbytery of this parish, which stands close to the church, is a good sized house, with some airy rooms; but it is not fitted up, or furnished, with any attention to comfort, much less to taste or appearance. The furniture was scarcely sufficient for the wants of a family. As we entered by a door, the windowframe of which was unglazed, and is left open in the summer, we observed that paper was pasted on, as a substitute for glass. This paper was torn from a copy-book, or exercise book, and contained the conjugation of a French and English verb. M. Gay understands English, and is teaching it to his children.

"Les Gentils-hommes, Seigneurs des lieux, et autres Catholiques aiment mieux encore des serviteurs et des servantes d'entre les notres, que les leurs propres. Vigneuax.

M

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CHAPTER VIII.

Bobbio-Magnificent scenery-Breakwater or rampart of BobbioAnecdote-Humanity of the Vaudois-Catechetical instruction -Church of Bobbio-M. Muston, pastor of Bobbio-Repast at the Presbytery-Papists and the second Commandment-Infant baptism-Vaudois, not fanatics-Anecdote-A rural sketchRetrospect-Henri Arnaud-Enterprizing achievement-March of the exiles-La Roche Blanche―The pass of Salabertrand forced Martial enthusiasm—Anecdote of Arnaud-Intrepidity of the Vaudois-Fastnesses of San Martino-Guerilla warfare -Fortress of Barceglia-Tremendous pass-Sanguinary conflicts-Affecting anecdote-Termination of the contest-Boyer's

narrative.

FROM Villaro to Bobbio (Bobi) the road still pursues a due westerly direction, up the banks of the Pelice. The defile opens a little as you advance; and when Bobbio first breaks upon the view, the prospect is one of the most magnificent that mountain scenery presents. The mountains themselves seem to retire, and at the same time to rise in height by irregular swells and gradations, in order to form an amphitheatre of such vastness and beauty, that the traveller must pause, and contemplate the awful picture in front of him, before he approaches to make a nearer examination. To the right the Col d'Aliries lifts up his head far above a succession of ridges, which rise majestically from their rocky basement; and, to the left, the gigantic peak of Mount Viso is seen glistening at one moment in the sun, and at another half enveloped in passing clouds. The enormous masses soar one above another, summit above summit, and crag above crag; each appears at times to be the loftiest of the