"But why have you not published it?" it was asked. "Because I have not the means. I cannot print it at my own expence, and know of nobody who will undertake it."

Mr. Lowther begged, and obtained consent to take charge of the MS. and to send it to the press.

from age to age, and opposed the novelties that Rome superadded from time to time to the Christian faith.

"IV. That, with the exception of the Primitive Church, founded by Christ and his first Disciples, no Christian people have been more distinguished for rare virtues and irreproachable morals.

"V. That, since the Apostolic Age, no Christian Church has shewn more zeal for the propagation of the Gospel, or greater fortitude and constancy under long and severe trials and afflictions.

"Next to these Letters, the Volume will contain M. Peyrani's Reply to the Roman Catholic Bishop of Pignerol, who, in his Pastoral Addresses, had animadverted on the religious opinions of the Waldenses, and endeavoured to persuade them to embrace the tenets of the Church of Rome. This Reply may be considered a specimen of M. Peyrani's great skill and temperate spirit as a controversialist, and is characterized by a train of reasoning that undermines at once the very foundations of the Church of Rome, and justifies the Protestant Churches in their separation from that apostate Church.

"The next piece, which it is proposed to include in the Volume, is a masterly Reply to M. Ferrary, a Roman Catholic Priest near Geneva, who had attempted to defend the use of images in the Christian Church, and the invocation of saints; and this will probably be followed by a Treatise on the Adoration of the Virgin Mary, an error both prominent and pernicious in the Church of Rome, but which the Author, in the most conclusive manner, shews to be entirely unscriptural.

"It is hoped that the publication of this Volume will not only be the means of affording pecuniary relief to the immediate descendants of M. Peyrani, (two sons and a daughter;) but be found also a valuable acquisition, at a period like the present, when the Church of Rome is making new and strenuous efforts to recover her former influence; re-asserts, with more than ordinary vehemence, her pretensions to supreme authority; and employs the most effective and most artful of her emissaries, the revived order of Jesuists, to regain her ancient ascendancy, if possible, in several of the nations of Europe.

"The French language being now very generally understood, it is thought desirable to publish the work in that language, in which the Author originally

wrote.

"It is believed that the price of the Volume will not exceed 10s.

"The profits arising from the publication will be appropriated to the exclusive benefit of Peyrani's family," Note to Third Edition.

It was printed, had a rapid run, and was so admirably well written, was so convincing, so keen and cutting, that the Popish polemic bought up all the remaining unsold pamphlets of his own, out of shame. Mr. Lowther assured me that he was unable to buy a single impression, though he offered a louis for one, when he wanted to have it inserted in a volume of miscellaneous articles, and that he was obliged to borrow one, and to have it written out in the place of a printed copy*.

e

"Lettre de Ferrari à M. Cellerier," was the title of the first pamphlet, and "Réponse à la Lettre de M. Ferrari, Curè du Grand Sacconex, par un Protestant," was the title of the second.

H 2

CHAPTER V.

Leave Pomaretto-Alpine scenery-Pinerolo-Ancient inn-Excursion to the valley of Luzerna-Mount Viso-IntoleranceAnecdote Vaudois Heroism-Anecdote-Patriarchal Simplicity-Church of San Giovanni-Ludicrous Bigotry—Lovely vale of San Giovanni-Beautiful Landscape—La Torre-Too frequent intermarriages-Church of La Torre-Its romantic situation-M. Bert-Attend service in the Church-Monumental inscriptions-Peasantry-Village inn and accommodation-Murderous plot against the Protestants--M. OdettiThe plot-Fanaticism—Rendezvous of conspirators—General Godin-March of the Vaudois soldiers for the preservation of their families-Threatened by the Torrents-Vespers bell, signal of destruction-Work of assassination-The assassins--Retribution—Injustice—General Zimmerman-Immunities and privileges granted to Vaudois-Grievances of the Vaudois-Absurd restrictions-Imposts-Disqualifications—Agriculture

Trade-Laughable mistake.

AFTER our most interesting visit to Pomaretto, we returned to Perosa in that serious and meditative mood, which the nature of our inquiries was calculated to produce. The obscurity of evening was increased by the masses of rock that projected above and around, and every object corresponded with the dreariness of the scenery, and the gloom that affected us.

案 "At every step,

Solemn and slow, the shadows blacker fell,

And all was awful listening gloom around."

As we passed one of the insecure bridges that are thrown across the torrent, we met a string of mules, whose cautious

PINEROLO-ANCIENT INN.

101

steps reminded us, that it is not inconvenience only, which attends a traveller in this wild and rugged region, but that perils also wait upon his path, and that nature is too sparing of her bounty, in the valley of the Clusone, to suffer its inhabitants to provide against more than the absolute necessities of the hour. A few loose planks formed the largest of the bridges which connect Pomaretto and Perosa. Before next winter they will most likely be washed away. The furnace of a smelting house was blazing as we passed it: its strong glare in the darkness of the night served to discover, and to set off some of the savage features of this rude glen, and seeing them, as we did, to perfection, we could not feel surprised that the Alps should furnish materials for so many tales and romances, when they present such outlines to the eye, which the imagination may fill up with all that can inspire wonder or terror.

We returned to and slept at Pinerolo, in an inn or hotel which must once have been the residence of some bold baron, but has been long since converted into one of an humbler designation. A large court-yard serves now for the receptacle of carts and other vehicles, a gallery runs round the building, and opens into several corridors, which communicate with large and dreary apartments; some gilded wainscoting, and the remains of what were once ornamental cornices, proclaim the departed grandeur of other days. The kitchen is an immense and vaulted chamber, the ceiling and walls of which have not been whitened for years; it resounded when we walked across it, as if it were constructed over a range of subterraneous passages. We had a capital supper, and among other things a large dish of the very small fish, a minute species of eel, which is considered so delicious in Piemont, and some of the Muscat wine, which pleased us so much at Perosa; but this good cheer did not reconcile us to what followed. Upon asking for our bed rooms, we were told that we were to sleep. where we had supped. There were but two beds, and these,

it was thought, afforded ample accommodation for five gentlemen. For a length of time we were scarcely believed, when we refused to be so accommodated, and it was not till after a great deal of discussion, that they made up a third bed in this room, and put two of us into a cold straggling apartment, where we found what we demanded.

The morning, on which we left Pinerolo for the Valley of Luzerna, was so bright and beautiful, that the air was fresh rather than cold, and for the first time since we were upon Italian soil, we enjoyed the sight of an Italian sky. There was all that clear blueness, and appearance of wider expanse in the firmament, which make one fancy that the vault of Heaven is loftier in this region than in our own. The country too, that we passed over, wore a very different aspect to that which we visited the previous evening, it was more open and productive, and did not so soon shrink into glens and defiles. The silvery tops of the distant mountains shone with uncommon splendour, and the whole drive to La Torre (La Tour) was one of the most cheerful that we had enjoyed. The first view of Mount Viso was imposing in the extreme. It is below the level of eternal snow, but its sides and brow were now covered, and the dazzling whiteness of its peaks burst upon us at a sudden turn in the road, and called forth a general exclamation of delight. No pencil can do justice to the bright tints of a mountain's snowy top sparkling in the sun.

On leaving Pinerolo we followed the fine broad road that leads to Saluzzo, in a due southerly direction for about two. miles, crossed the Clusone over an ill-built and crazy bridge, and at the hamlet of Osasco turned into a cross-road to the right, and continued our route towards the west. Bricherasio was the last Popish commune through which we passed: it is well situated, but though it is within the Pelice and the Clusone, the boundary rivers of the Protestant limits, yet, like the other two or three villages in the plain, its lands are considered too productive to be suffered to re