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Christ." There is another picture by Van Man-
deren, the historian and poet, representing “A
The rich orna-
scene of Martyrdom at Rome."
ments made use of in Divine worship are worthy of
notice for the beauty of the chasing and engraving.
Notre Dame: this church is worthy of notice,
chiefly from the richness of its marbles. It was
founded in 1238 by Baldwin, Count of Flanders
and Emperor of Constantinople. It deserves to
be visited on account of the richness and grandeur
of its ornaments, particularly a chef-d'œuvre of
Van Dyck, placed behind the high altar, and repre-
senting the Elevation of the Cross. The tabernacle,
a fine piece of carving, by the famous Lefevre, of
Tournay; two bas-reliefs by Godecharles; and
Christ at the Tomb, deserve to be noticed. This
church once possessed the small ivory statue of
the Virgin, known as the Virgin of Oroeningen,
celebrated for the miracles which, according to
many, it performed; it is now in the church of
Saint Michael, and still attracts crowds of pilgrims
to its shrine. The two towers, called Brotom-
Torren, built in 1413, are remarkable for the
extreme strength and thickness of the walls; they
are united by a bridge over the Lys, built in the
year 1465.

The Market Houses are seen in all their ancient simplicity in the centre of the town; the front of the building is adorned by five elegant turrets. There was formerly a high tower in the centre of the structure, in which the celebrated clock previously mentioned was placed. A modern building has been erected for market purposes.

Theatre: this is remarkable for the beauty of its decorations; it forms part of the new market building.

Promenades: the ramparts or boulevards surrounding Courtray form a fine walk, from which may be had a beautiful view of the city. The park of Saint George is likewise a delightful but by far the most agreeable of the public place; walks is the esplanade; it is planted with chestnut and lime trees, and has nicely laid out plots of green, furnished here and there with elegant and comfortable seats.

Railway to Bruges and Ostend; also to Ypres, Poperinghe, Renaix, Mons, &c.; and direct to Brussels, via Audenarde, Sotteghem, Denderleeuw.

Leaving Courtray for Ghent, the railway runs parallel to the paved road, and shortly arrives at

Haerlebeke (Station). A commune and chief place of a canton in the district of Courtray, containing a population of 4,486 souls. It was the oldest town in Flanders, and the residence of the first governors of the country. Antiquities have frequently been found here. The church is remarkable for its architecture, and contains a superb pulpit, a masterpiece of Decreux, of Tournay. It was formerly an important fortress, and suffered many vicissitudes in the 9th and 10th centuries. It has manufactures of woollens, cloths, tobacco, &c.

Waereghem (Station). An important and ancient commune of the district of Courtray; population, 7,220. It has a considerable trade in linen. Situated four miles north-west of it, is the village of Roosbeke, remarkable as the spot where Philip Van Artevelde, the brewer of Ghent, suffered defeat by the French in 1382, losing his own life, Shortly after with 20,000 of his countrymen. leaving Waereghem the railway crosses the stype, and, quitting West Flanders, enters into East Flanders, passes Zulte, a town containing 2,000 inhabitants, and arrives at Deynze, after running in a right line, passing Olsene and then Mochelen; the former a commune of the district of Ghent, with a population of 2,600, and the latter a town of the same district, containing a population of 2,100 inhabitants.

Deynze (Station) is situated on the left bank of the Lys. On the opposite bank, between the road and the river, is Peteghem, a small commune Deynze is the chief place containing 1,400 souls.

of a canton in the district of Ghent, and an ancient
town; its population is 3,800. The principal Church,
Nôtre Dame, is an old Gothic building, containing
a fine picture, attributed to Jordaens, representing
the Birth of Christ. Railway to Thielt, and to
Audenarde or Oudenarde. Thielt (Station) is the
chief place of a canton in the district of Bruges. It is
the birth-place of Oliver le Daim, the celebrated
barber of Louis XI. Pop,, 12,000. Oudenarde
(Station) is of very ancient origin, where Marl-
borough and Prince Eugene defeated the French,
11th July, 1708. Great numbers of medals of the
Gauls and first Kings of France have been found here.

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The Town Hall is a handsome Gothic building; the fountain and basin opposite are worthy of attention. The portal of the collegiate church of the burgomaster and aldermen is a masterpiece of wood carving, executed in 1530 by Paul Vander Schelder. The trade in linen is extensive. The population is 6,265. The Lys, which passes Deynze, rises in France, in the department of the Pas de Calais, not far from Bethune; after watering Aire, Estaires, and Armentières, it takes a northeasterly direction, a little below the latter town, and forms the limit between France and Belgium, by Warneton and Wervick, which it passes, and entering West Flanders, passes Courtray, then enters East Flanders, near Olsene, crossing Deynze, and taking a winding course of about 100 miles, it falls into the Scheldt at Ghent.

Nazareth (Station) is next met with. Population 5,500. Leaving here the railway passes Maria Leerne, and enters a very interesting place, to the right of which meanders the river Lys. St. Dennis Westrem is passed to the left; the road leading to the village of Oudenarde is next crossed by the railway, after which it turns suddenly to the left, and leaving the line leading to Brussels, arrives at

GHENT (Station)-French, Cand; Flemish, Gend; English, Gaunt, where John of Gaunt was born. Population (1873), 128,424. Hotels:

Hotel Royal, Place d'Armes, in the centre of the town, and nearest to the railway station, a first-class hotel-highly recommended to English travellers; landlord, Mr. Marit.

Hotel de la Poste, Place d'Armes.-This old established first-rate hotel is conducted by Mr. A. Vande Putte, and is highly recommended.

Hotel de Vienne, nearest hotel to the churches of St. Bavon, St. Nichol, and St. Michael-moderate charges and excellent accommodation. A. Roszmann, proprietor, a German.

Du Comte d'Egmont; D'Allemagne; Du Duc de Wellington; De Courtrai.

There is a good Buffet at the station, which is within the town. Cabs are always in attendance. Post Office.-Rue de l'Université.

English Church Service.

The traveller will be most agreeably surprised on entering this rich and populous city, through one of its seven gates, situated at the confluence

of the Scheldt and the Lys, to observe the animation and activity imparted by the flourishing state of its manufactories. Its population is chiefly engaged in the manufacturing of linen and cotton threads by machinery, and the bleaching and printing of calicoes. Gand is built on twenty-six islands, united by bridges, and contains three hundred streets. Ghent, though no longer the great commercial city of former days, when the Emperor Charles V. (its most distinguished native, born here 1500) said of it-"Je mettrai tout Paris dans mon Gand," (i.e., my glove, mon gant), is still the Manchester of Belgium. In 1800 an enterprising Fleming, named Lieviere Baucus, brought over from Manchester several English workmen and spinning jennies; manufactures quickly took root, and in a short time 30,000 workmen were employed, sixty steam-engines required to set in motion the machinery of the various cotton mills, many of whose chimneys appear like classic columns.

The political history of Ghent is various and interesting. Notwithstanding the severe strictures of the historian, Hallam, it calls up to the recollection many scenes which inspire us with every sentiment of sympathy and good-will towards the descendants of many a name illustrated in centuries past by deeds of patriotism and domestic virtue, which still do honour to the Flemish character. Its citizen-magistrates being condemned by the Emperor Charles V. to implore his clemency, and to wear a rope round their necks whenever they acted judicially, they turned into an honour with this device, in which the city is characterised, along with others:

"Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antverpia nummis, Gandavum laqueis, fornosis Bruga puellis, Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stultis." Ghent is one of the handsomest towns on the Continent; its streets and public squares are wide and spacious; it has more the appearance of a modern city than Bruges. Most of the houses, as in Holland, are furnished with espions, or little reflectors, placed outside the windows, and showing all the passers in the street. Its objects of attraction may be enumerated as follows:

The Beffroi.-Belfry tower, a building erected in 1183. Permission to erect a tower, or belfry, was the earliest privilege that the citizens obtained from their feudal lords, and was, hence, long

regarded by them as a monument of their power and wealth. It originally served as a watch tower, from whence an enemy could be descried, and in which was a tocsin-bell that called the citizens to arms, and to debate. The gilt dragon on the top was carried off from Bruges by the Gantoises, as a trophy of their conquest of that town, under Philip Vlaenderlaudt. It has lately been re-gilt. Its history is rather a remarkable one, it having originally adorned a Greek church at Constantinople, from whence it was carried off by the men of Bruges, who went to the first crusade as soldiers under Baldwin, Count of Flanders. It is now used as a prison, and had deposited in the lower part of it, not long since, the title deeds and records of Ghent. From its top a magnificent view can be had, and the entrance to it lies through the shop of a watchmaker, who charges 2 francs for admission. The following reply was made by Charles V. to his cruel and atrocious minister, Alva, who advised him to destroy the city, "Combien, il fallait de peaux d'Espagne pour fair un gant de cette grandeur?" -(How many skins of Spanish leather would it take to make such a glove?) Thus spoke the king, pointing out the city from the top of the Beffroi.

The Cathedral of Ghent is one of the handsomest Gothic buildings in Belgium. It was formerly a church dedicated to St. John, but took the name of St. Bavon in 1540, when Charles V. removed thither the collegiate chapter of the Abbey of that saint, and 19 years afterwards it was raised to the dignity of a cathedral church. The present building was commenced in the thirteenth, and finished in the beginning of the sixteenth century. The majestic effect which the structure is calculated to produce is much impaired by the want of an open area around and in front. The tower is remarkable for its elegance; it is 271 feet high, and the ascent to the platform which terminates it is by 446 steps; the view from the summit is of great extent and beauty. The Cathedral itself is divided into three aisles by a double range of light and elegant columns.

On each side are disposed

twelve chapels, which, as well as the choir, are in excellent keeping with the rest of the building. The choir which has two side aisles, is raised

above the floor of the body of the church by a flight of steps: in front is the grand altar, enclosed by three bronze doors of elaborate workmanship, and surmounted by Corinthian columns of the purest Carrara marble, with a statue of the saint in his ducal robes, and two colossal marble statues by Van Pouche, representing the apostles Peter and Paul. In front of the altar are four tall copper candlesticks, remarkable as having been the property of Charles the First of England. It is surmised that they may have adorned the Chapel of Whitehall, or St. Paul's Church. It is supposed that they were sent out of England and sold; on them are still seen the arms of England.

The stalls of the canons in the choir are said to be the finest specimens of carving in mahogany known to exist in the world. Over these stalls are eleven paintings in imitation of bas-relief, by P. Van Reyschoot. Most of the numerous chapels which line the Cathedral are adorned with paintings. The first contains the Beheading of St. John the Baptist, by Crayer; the second, the Donation of St. Colette (a saint of Ghent, who died in 1447) of a piece of ground for a convent, by Paelinck, a modern artist; the third, the Baptism of our Saviour, by Crauwer; the fourth, a Dead Christ, by Abraham Janssens; the sixth, Christ disputing with the Doctors, by Pourbus, all the figures of which are portraits of different individuals holding official situations under Phillip II.; the seventh, a fine picture of the Martyrdom of St. Barbe, by Crayer; the tenth, a Christ between the Thieves, by Vander Menen, a pupil of Van Dyck. In the eleventh is the Agnus Dei, one of the most celebrated pictures of the Flemish school, painted by the brothers Van Eyck, the inventors of oil painting, in 1482; and, though more than four hundred years have elapsed since this picture was painted, the colours retain a vividness truly wonderful, the numerous figures are all finished with the most elaborate care, and each countenance is endued with admirably appropriate expression. The towers, which in the luminous horizon are supposed to represent the New Jerusalem, are taken from those of Maestricht, near which town the artists were born. Above this picture are three smaller ones by the same artists; the centre represents Christ on a

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