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St. Adolphe, and Mariemont. This branch touches the richest coal grants in the centre. The tourist who intends to judge of the peculiar aspect given to this district by the establishments of every description, in which industry is carried on in so large a scale, will visit this vast workshop, which employs in a varied and unceasing production, an innumerable quantity of intelligent and indefatigable labourers. The country besides offers more than one site worthy of attention. One view in particular, of the most charming character, is that which one discovers at Mariemont, where the magnificent residence of M. Warocque contrasts in the life and splendour of its modern luxury with the highly picturesque

ruins of the residence of the Archdukes of Austria.

Leaving the La Louvière station, the trunk line crosses the branches of the Charleroi canal, on a fixed and a swing bridge. Numerous industrial establishments continue to appear on both sides of the railway, which passes through a well cultivated country, and some orchards, whose aspect relieves the monotony of the landscape. Finally, on the high road from Nivelles to Mons, the railway enters the station at Manage, which it shares in common with the government railway that joins it.

Manage (Station), a few years ago, was close to an insignificant hamlet, forming a part of the village of Leneffe. The place is now daily rising in importance since the building of the Government and Namur and Liége railway stations there. Rail to Brain-le-Comte, Charleroi, and Nivelles, towards Brussels and Louvain.

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Namur to Dinant and Givet, up the Meuse, in 1 hour.

Namur (Station), as in Route 8.

Though the Meuse above Namur is less visited, it is not less interestingly attractive there than below it. Escarpments of limestone, magnificent in their lofty outline and bold projecting heights, hem in the river as it flows gently along its pearly bed, the entire landscape forming a tout ensemble resembling the vales of Derbyshire. At Dinant the road crosses the river by a stone bridge, and at Yvoir, 4 miles below, we see the intermittent springs, rising and sinking regularly, every seven minutes. Passing several picturesque villas and chateaux we perceive, about 3 miles below Dinant, the ruins of the Castle of Poilvache, taken and destroyed, in 1429, by Bishop Jean de Heynsberg.

To the left, on the summit of a rock, half a mile or so below Dinant, is seen the ruined Castle of Bouvignes or Crèvecœur. A thrilling tale of female heroism is connected with the history of this castle, and tradition does not fail to perpetuate and hand it down to each succeeding generation. The French, under the Duke de Nevers, besieged this castle in 1554, and three beautiful women, with their husbands, took refuge in the tower of Crèvecœur, designing to aid the garrison by their succour and presence. The besieged were all slain save the three females, who, rather than submit to the brutality of their conquerors, threw themselves from the top of the battlements, and were dashed into atoms on the rocks beneath. Dinant (Station).--Hotels:

Tête D'Or.-An excellent house, and very reasonable; recommended; good trout fishing. Des Postes, a very good and comfortable house. Population, 7,240. It is situated in a romantic position at the base of limestone cliffs, with the citadel and church crowning their summits.

The Bouvignese and people of Dinant were rivals in the manufacture of copper, and from this arose a hostile animus on both sides, which led to the most cruel and sanguinary encounters. The

two parties fought constantly against each other. The castles of Crèvecœur and Montorgueil were built, the former by the Bouvignese, and the latter by the Dinantese, for the purpose of mutual annoyance. Dinant was besieged by Philip the Good, with an army of 30,000 men. On being summoned to surrender, they hung the messengers sent with the terms of capitulation, which so enraged the duke that he, on the town being forced to surrender, gave it up to pillage for three days, and then burned it to the ground, ordering eight hundred of the inhabitants, bound two and two, to be thrown into the Meuse. The town was rebuilt by his son, Charles the Bold, but was again pillaged and sacked, in 1554, by the French, under the Duke de Nevers, who, history tells us, was provoked to this cruel act by the message of the townspeople to his summons to surrender. They replied that if the King of France and the duke fell into their hands they would roast their hearts and livers for breakfast. The treaty of Ryswick gave Dinant to the Prince-Bishop. Attacked and taken during the first French revolution, it became the chief town of a French department, and so remained until 1813, when it was retaken by the allies, and definitely joined to the royalty of the Netherlands, together with the ancient district of Liége.

The church of Nôtre Dame is a massive structure, of a cruciform shape, built in the Gothic style. It contains nothing particularly interesting, and is only remarkable for the style of its architecture and a tower 210 feet high.

Excursions from Dinant to the Grotto of Hanssur-Lesse, Castle of Montaigle, Château de Wabzins, and to Châteaux, a group of hovels.

Above Dinant the line leads us through a species of natural portal, abruptly terminated by a wall of rock shot out from the precipitous cliffs on the left, and on the right by the Roche à Bayard an isolated mass of rock; close by here quarries of black marble are to be found; also immediately above is the pretty little town of Anseremme. The valley is very picturesque, and well deserves to be explored. At this spot, the Lesse falls into the Meuse.

The road now begins to ascend, and at 3 miles above Dinant is the Château of Freyer,

situated at the base of luxuriantly-clothed hills, on the left bank of the river. It is a country seat of the Duchess of Beaufort-Fontin, and has within its grounds a beautiful grotto. Opposite

here the scenery is very picturesque. Forms and outlines of the most singular caste and character are shadowed forth by the broken masses of limestone, rising like so many giants out of the Meuse. As far as Flamignoul the scenery partakes of quite a romantic aspect. Passing by Heer we are attracted by a red marble quarry, and as we approach the top of the hill our road is enlivened by chaste and beautiful scenery, until we ascend the top, from which we have a magnificent view of Givet on French territory. The Stations of Hastière and Agimont are passed; then comes Givet (Station).

Inns:-Le Cygne; Le Mont d'Or.

A small but prettily situated town, on the right bank of the Meuse, opposite Charlemont, with which it is connected by a bridge. Here is the French douane. Both places belong to France. Givet has a population of about 4,000, and is a fortress. The fortifications of Charlemont stand on the left bank, on a rock of limestone. There is a statue to Mehul, the composer. Rail to Mézières, Marienburg, Morialmé Charleroi, &c.

ROUTE 17.

Landen to St. Trond, Hasselt, Maestricht, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne.

Leaving Landen (Station)-Route 18-the railroad passes Attenhoven, a commune of 700 inhabitants, and soon after leaves the province of Liége, and enters that of Limburg, and shortly arrives at

Velm (Station), in a commune of Limburg, in the district of Hasselt, crossed by a Roman causeway.

St. Trond (Station), near the chief place of a canton of the district of Hasselt, in the province of Limburg, situated upon the Cicindria. There are eleven churches, the principal situated in a vast square, in which is likewise the Town Hall, worthy of notice. The manufacture of lace is the principal occupation of the inhabitants. Population, 12,000.

Cortenbosch (Station) and Alken (Station), followed by

Hasselt (Station). Capital of Belgian LimHere the Belgians were A rail to Utrecht and

burg. Population, 9,900. defeated, August, 1831. Amsterdam.

Maestricht (Station). Population, 28,100. Hotels: Du Casque; Du Levrier (Greyhound).

The capital of Dutch Limburg, on the Meuse, or Maes, from which, and the old Roman ferry, or trajectum, it derives its name. It has a strong fortress, and a six-arch bridge to the suburb of Wyck. The Town Hall, in the Market Place, is a handsome building. The church of St. Gervais is a fine edifice with 5 towers and a splendid portal; the square in which this church stands was the spot where William de la Marck was beheaded, in 1485. The most remarkable things near Maestricht, are the subterranean Quarries, under the hill called the Pietersberg; they wind in and out for 10 to 12 miles; and can only be safely visited with an experienced guide. Steamers daily to Liége, in 4 hours, returning in 24 hours. To Rotterdam, stopping for the night at Venloo.

For Meerssen, Faquemont, &c., to Aix-laChapelle (Station), see Route 18.

ROUTE 18.

Brussels to Cologne, by Malines, Louvain,

Liége, and Aix-la-Chapelle.

Brussels (Station), see Route 6. The rail quits the Rue Neuve, traverses the Senne, and rejoins the old line of railway leading to the station d'Allée Verte. To the left we see the Royal palace of Laeken, on a height.

The Château of Laeken dates no further back than 1782. It was built after a design of the Archduke Charles Albert, Governor of the Netherlands, and is erected in a charming position. The park surrounding it contains an orangery, a theatre, pavilions, and beautiful trees. It was in this château that Napoleon signed the celebrated declaration of war against Russia. The palace is now the property of the crown, and favourite residence of the Royal Family.

Before arriving at Vilvorde, our attention is arrested by the large building with the multitude of windows; it is the central house of correction, after the same plan as the model prisons in

England and those of the United States. This prison is capable of containing 2,000 prisoners. The old château, upon the site of which this prison was built in 1776, served as a prison, but only for state prisoners. Madame Deshouliers was a prisoner of state here in 1657. The road, describing a circle from here, arrives at

Vilvorde (Station), see Route 2.

Quitting this station, the railroad traverses a beautiful and well cultivated country, passing the little village of Sempst, remarkable for its ancient church, we cross the Senne, and shortly after leave the province of Brabant and enter that af Antwerp, and perceive the gigantic tower and churches of Malines. The railway from Ghent, Courtray, Bruges, and Ostend, to Malines, is seen to the left, describing a grand curve to unite itself to the one we travel by. Crossing the Louvain canal by a moveable bridge, we arrive at

Malines (Station), or Mechelen (Route 1).

At a short distance from the station in Malines, the railroad leaves the province of Antwerp and enters that of Brabant. The village of Muysar and Haver, and the commune of Ryneman, the steeple of which is seen on the left at a distance, being passed.

Haecht (Station) is arrived at, near the chief place of a commune of Louvain, and contains 1,900 inhabitants.

"It

Westpelaer (Station), the next arrived at, is celebrated for its magnificent park, to which crowds of visitors resort during the season. presents," says a tourist, "a singular mixture of mythological statues, thickets, Chinese bridges, grottoes, and Greek temples." On leaving Westpelaer, the charming village of Thildonk is passed, its pointed steeple is seen from the railroad. The church is worthy of notice. Advancing towards Louvain the railroad runs along the side of the canal, the edge of which is prettily planted with three rows of poplars. Crossing the river Dyle, then the road from Louvain to Aerschot, and passing the communes of Kessel and Loo, and Wilsile, the station outside the gate of Diest is arrived at.

LOUVAIN (Station), or Leuven, or Löwen in German. Population, 31,930.

Hotels: De Suede, good; De la Cour de Mons, Resident English Vice-Consul.

A large, irregularly-built town, of a circular form, situated on the Dyle, which passes through it. Population, 31,930. We enter the town by a gilt iron gate. The foundation of Louvain has been attributed to Cæsar; but nothing certain is known of the history of the place until the year 888, when the Emperor Arnold, in order to protect the country from the predatory incursions of the Normans, built in the place of Louvain a castle, which has been long improperly called Château César (Cæsar's Castle). The Dukes of Brabant resided many years in the castle, and Henry, the first Count of Louvain, was assassinated there in 1308. It was rebuilt at the expense of the magistrates in 1375, and was the winter residence of Edward III. of England, and his Queen, in 1485. At a later period it was selected as the place of abode of the illustrious Charles V. during his youth. The ruins of the castle are still remaining. Till the year 1792, when the revolutionary troops, under General Kleber, made themselves masters of the town, Louvain could boast of never having been taken by an enemy, though it had been repeatedly besieged during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth centuries.

In the beginning of the fourteenth century Louvain was a large, populous, and rich city, in which the manufacture of woollen stuffs was so considerable, that in 1317 it reckoned 4,000 establishments connected with the cloth trade alone, and contained 150,000 inhabitants. During the reign of Duke Wenceslaus however, and about the year 1370, a tumult arose in the town, in consequence of the arbitrary punishment of a citizen, after he had been judicially acquitted of a petty theft of which he was accused. A number of cloth manufacturers took part in this tumult, and on its suppression were banished from the town. These ingenious workmen retired to England, drawing after them many of their relations and friends; and so rapidly did the town decrease in population from that period, that in less than forty years Louvain presented all the appearances of a vast deserted city. To remedy the evil, John, the fifth Duke of Brabant, founded in 1246, a University, which afterwards became one of the most celebrated in Europe. It was suppressed by the French in 1793, and the building converted into F

an hospital for invalids. It was, however, reestablished, under the late government, in 1817, in a large building of great simplicity, erected at the close of the last century. There are 17 professors and about 500 students. The library contains about 40,000 volumes, and the university also possesses a botanical garden and a tolerably good museum of zoology and mineralogy. Strangers are struck with admiration on the first view of the immense edifice of the Halles-its vast and superb saloons, devoted to the study of civil law, physic, and theology.

The principal productions of Louvain are woollen stuffs and dimities, with the various articles proceeding from the salt-works, sugar refineries, manufactories of potash and starch, bottle works, window-glass manufactories, potteries, brandy and gin distilleries, and establishments for extracting oil from rape-seed and colza. There are also a number of cotton-printing establishments and several printing offices. The white beer of Louvain is in great repute, and exported to all parts of Belgium; besides which, another kind of malt liquor, called peterman, is the common table beer of the higher classes. Some idea may be formed of the trade in beer, when it is known that the town comprises upwards of forty breweries, producing, annually, above 200,000 barrels of malt liquor.

The Hôtel de Ville is, perhaps, the most perfect specimen of its kind of Gothic architecture extant and the innumerable carved figures which enrich the front exhibit indubitable traces, notwithstanding the ravages of time, of exquisite workmanship. It was built in 1439. In the council chamber are some paintings by Verhaegen, and the Continence of Scipio, by Luca Giordans; and in the Grand Saloon is a collection comprising the Resurrection, by Rubens; Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, by Crayer; and a portrait of Lipsius, by Van Dyck.

The Cathedral Church of St. Peter, a beautiful edifice, was built under Count Lambert Balderic, about the year 1010, and was formerly surmounted by a spire of the extraordinary height of 533 feet, considered by the people of Louvain as the eighth wonder of the world; but, unfortunately, this bold and justly admired specimen of steeple building was levelled with the ground, by a violent storm

was thrown into the Dyle, and, contrary to natural laws, her body floated upwards against the stream, surrounded by a halo of glory, and emitting sweet and harmonious sounds. Henry, the first Duke of Louvain, saw this wonderful miracle; the report soon spread, her body was embalmed, and a shrine erected for her honour; and there, to the admiration of the faithful, may the wooden pitcher in which she fetched wine to this day be seen. The churches of St. Michael, St. Anthony, and St. Gertrude are also worthy of notice, as well as the new prison erected at the Dieste Gate. St. Gertrude has some good wood carvings and paintings of Crayer, Verhaegen, &c.

of wind, in 1604. The interior of this church contains much to attract the attention, particularly a fine allegorical subject, representing Faith, Hope, and Charity, by Crayer, which is in the Chapel of the Trinity, and the Holy Family, by Quentin Matsys, in that of St. Anne. The iron screen, curiously wrought in one piece, is by Goemans, and the iron lustre by Quentin Matsys. The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck, which adorns the altar of St. Julien, is remarkable for the artist's introduction of a number of winged boys, who are stationed with a cup at the foot of the cross, to catch the blood of our Saviour. The Last Supper, and the Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, by Thierry Stuerbout, though long falsely attributed to Hemling, should also be noticed; as well as the marble altars of the Chapels of the Sacrament and the Virgin Mary, the latter of which was designed by Rubens. The oak pulpit was brought to this church in 1807 from the suppressed Abbey of Ninoven, near Brussels. It is the work of Bergere, in 1742, and may be considered as one of the finest specimens of carved wood in the world. The Communion Table of Alexander van Papenhoven (date 1709) is an exquisite production, with its groups of angels and cherubims playing among flowers, leaves, and fruit. The tabernacle is an exquisitely wrought piece of workmanship, richly however, are comprised many gardens and or

sculptured. The Conversion of St. Paul occupies the lower part, and round it are a number of figures of animals, intertwined with imitations of trunks and leaves of trees. The organs, which are among the best in Belgium, were long falsely attributed to John Goltfows, but were really made by John Crimon, of Mons, in 1556. In the choir is the mausoleum of Henry IV., Duke of Brabant, who died in 1235; and behind it, in a small chapel, that of Margaret of Louvain, assassinated in 1025, patroness of servant girls; in connection with which there is a marvellous story told, somewhat as follows:-Being servant at an inn, the night previous to the day on which she and her master and mistress had resolved to enter a convent, she went out to fetch some wine for some pilgrims who had arrived. During her absence these pilgrims murdered her master and mistress, and on her return they assailed her with the same inten tion. Overpowered, after a long struggle, she

The Tower of Jansenius, in which he is supposed to have written his great work on grace and freewill, and the house of Lepsius, the artist, are also shewn to strangers. Louvain contains a tribunal de première instance, and another of commerce; it has also a subscription library and a theatre. The walks formed in the ancient moat around the town, especially that called St. George's Garden, are extremely pleasant; and the quarter named the Rivage is handsomely built. The town, encircled by walls surmounted by turrets, has a circumference of about 6 miles, in which space,

The

chards; it communicates with Mechlin by a canal, formed in 1750, along the banks of which is a post road, of 2 posts, or 15 miles in length, by which we join the high road leading from Brussels to Antwerp and to Amsterdam, at Mechlin. principal promenades are the avenues of trees, 2 miles in length, ranging with the canal outside the Aerschot Gate, the new circle of boulevards, now in progress, by which it is intended to enclose the old limits of the town, and the walks to the château of Count d'Aremberg, the Benedictine Abbey, and Sudwater, the seat of M. Plascheret. A fair of ten days, for all kinds of merchandise, at Louvain, is held annually, beginning the first Sunday in September. It seems to be a healthy place, as it appears, on the authority of Dr. Grandeville (vol. 1, p. 72), that the mortality as to the number of births is in the proportion of six to eight.

Louvain to Liége.-After leaving Louvain the old Abbey of Parcq is passed on the right.

The

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