presents itself at a mile and three-quarters from the village, and after displaying all the majestic grandeur of sylvan scenery, disappears a little beyond Waterloo. The principal road through the wood to this village is of great length and extreme regularity; but the unvarying, uniform appearance of the trees which fringe it, give a sombre aspect to the route. The forest, which is about seven miles and a half in breadth, and nine miles in length, contains many defiles, and is interspersed with lakes, vales, brooks, hamlets, and cultivated plains. Great quantities of oak were felled by command of Bonaparte, in order to supply the dockyards at Amsterdam; but the forest still abounds in fine timber, and a thousand acres of it, which belong to the Duke of Wellington, are said to yield a revenue of forty francs an acre. The proximity of this immense mass of wood to Brussels, renders the city somewhat damp and cold when the wind blows from that quarter; on the other hand, from its great attractive powers, thunder-clouds frequently discharge themselves there, which might otherwise carry heavy storms into the town. Nearly at the extremity of the forest, and about ten miles from Brussels, stands Waterloo, as before-mentioned.

Mont St. Jean.-This hamlet, which, as beforementioned, is more than a mile from Waterloo, at a place where the road divides into two branches, of which that on the left leads to Genappe, and that on the right to Nivelles, must not be confounded by the tourist with the farm-house of Mount St. Jean, half a mile in advance of the village, on the road to the farm of La Haye Sainte, which was in the immediate rear of the British position. From this farm an easy ascent leads to the ridge which formed the line of occupation of the British army. Near the centre of this ridge stood the Wellington tree, so called in consequence of the duke having taken his station there during a great part of the 18th. This tree was cut down and sold in 1821. In front is a little valley, irregularly formed, with numerous gentle windings and hollows, and varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the murderous conflict. The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mount St. Jean, were occupied by the French. A

stupendous triumphal mound of a conical shape, surmounted by a colossal Belgic lion in bronze, was constructed at the expense of the Netherlands government on the plains of St. Jean. The base of the monument is 160 yards in diameter, and the height of the whole nearly 50 yards.

La Haye Sainte.-This is the name of a large farm-house on the road from Mount St. Jean to La Belle Alliance, and about a mile from the former place, on the Genappe road. It was in the left centre of the British position, and a little in advance of Wellington's tree. In the immediate vicinity of this house, which received much injury, in all directions, and especially in what forms the back part of the building, a dreadful carnage took place between the combatants. It was taken by the French army on the day, and maintained by them until nearly the end of the battle. On the side of the building towards the road a monument has been erected to the memory of some officers of the 2nd German Legion, who fell in the onslaught; and at a little distance, on the opposite side of the road, is a hollow way, where 4,000 men and a great number of horses were buried in one common grave. Near this spot fell Sir Thomas Picton, leading a gallant charge on the French cuirassiers.

Hougoumont. The large farm-house or château, so called, was fiercely contested. It is situated on the right of La Haye Sainte from Waterloo, at the distance of about a mile from the former place The British had possession of the house and gardens, and fought with a desperate courage to maintain it; while the French, led on by Jerome Bonaparte, who, though wounded in the arm, still kept the field, made equal efforts to expel them, aware that, if they became masters of the place, the whole of the British lines would be exposed to their fire. It was, in fact, the key-stone of the British position. The garden was protected on three sides by a strong wall, which served our troops as a breast-work, and from behind which they aimed at the assailants with deadly certainty; the unprotected part commanded a view of Lord Wellington's position on the heights. In vain the enemy made repeated attempts to scale the garden wall from the adjoining orchard, and though they thrice entered the gates of Hougoumont, they were as often repulsed, and driven out with severe loss,

At length, after a destructive fire of artillery, and the most frightful carnage, the French succeeded in setting the place on fire, and great numbers of killed and wounded on both sides were buried in the ruins. The place was entirely destroyed, with the exception of the chapel and an out-house, which escaped almost uninjured. Many of the surrounding trees were severed in two, while others were completely perforated with balls. A large but rudely-carved figure of the Saviour is placed over the altar in the chapel, which is very small, and by no means curious.

La Belle Alliance.-A small farm-house, so called, and serving as an inn of the humblest kind, is situated about three-quarters of a mile from La Haye Sainte, on the road to Genappe. It was here that the Duke of Wellington and Prince Blücher met on the evening of the day of battle. Having embraced in the most affectionate manner, the duke retired on his position, and Blücher went in pursuit of the flying enemy. Bonaparte posted his favourite guard in front of this place, and never approached in person nearer to La Haye Sainte than the hollow part of the ground between that place and La Belle Alliance and the main road. The Prussians have erected a monument in iron near this spot, to commemorate the success of their army.

MARKE BRAINE.-This small place is on the right of the village of Mount St. Jean, and about a mile from it. The British reserve on the right, commanded by Major-General Humber, was posted on this part of the field; but no event occurred to render the spot memorable.

The ground where the battle was fought produced the best crops in Belgium for many years after the sanguinary event. Over the spot where lay smouldering in ashes the broken fragments of humanity, sacrificed at the shrine of cruel, remorseless war, the green corn of spring waved luxuriantly, and in summer time shot forth its golden ear full of grain, nurtured by the dust of friend and foe, who, but for the fury of war, might have slept peaceably in consecrated earth, beneath the green sward of the village churchyard, and appeared before the God of Peace, undefiled with blood.

"But where 1 stood, beneath the fresh green tre
Which, living, waves where thou didst cease to liv
And saw around me the wide fields revive
With fruits and fertile promise, and the spring
Come forth her work of gladness to contrive,
With all her reckless birds upon the wing,

I turned from all she brought to those she could no bring." BYRON.

"Was it a soothing or a mournful thought,
Amid this scene of slaughter, as we stood,
Where armies had with recent fury fought,
To mark how gentle nature still pursued
Her quiet course, as if she took no care
For what her noblest work had suffered there."

SOUTHEY.

Visitors to Waterloo will find hordes of beggars, and persons selling reliquaries, in the shape of buttons, shreds of cloth, fragments of accoutrements, bullets, many of which are manufactured in the neighbourhood. Very many melancholy memorials of the carnage were brought to light for some years after the battle.

There are several other pretty places to which Excursions could be made with pleasure from Brussels, such as Forest, Trois Fontaines, Tervouren, and

Saventhem (Station), 12 miles from Brussels, on the Liége line, a commune of the district of Brussels, with 1,200 inhabitants. The Church will well repay a visit to the amateur in painting, who will see there a magnificent picture by Van Dyck, representing St. Martin on his horse, giving a portion of his cloak to a poor man. The history of this painting is interesting, and deserves relating:

Van Dyck, on his way to bid farewell to his illustrious master, previous to his departure for Rome, was mounted on a superb horse, a gift from Rubens, and passed by Saventhem. It was a holiday, and the people were dancing under the trees. Van Dyck delayed, and danced with the most beautiful girl in the village, and before the ball was over, found himself deeply in love with

her. He was then twenty-four years of age. Rome was forgotten. Days, weeks, and months rolled by; his money was all gone. Van Dyck's passion being now calmed, and his resources exhausted, he found that his interest and fame called him to Rome; but what was he to do, not having a florin to bring him there? Happily his courage sustained him. He presented himself to

the curé, and proposed to paint an altar piece for his church. The subject was agreed on, and the price fixed at 100 florins. The painting was finished in five days. Van Dyck himself and his horse served as models for the horse and saint, and the beadle of the church for the poor man. The curé was, by chance, a judge of painting; he paid the demand without murmuring, and Van Dyck set out for Rome. This circumstance provided the poor village church with a chef d'œuvre.

ROUTE 7.

Brussels to Paris by Charleroi,

Erquelinnes, and Creil.

Great Luxembourg Station, Quartier Leopold. Distance, 215 miles.

This route is considerably shorter than that by Mons and Valenciennes. On leaving Brussels the train passes through several cuttings, on emerging from which it arrives at

Boitsfort (Station), being the first station on the Luxembourg line, and is three miles from Brussels. The village lies in a valley on the border of the Forest of Soignies. It is the great resort of pleasure parties, as it contains several excellent restaurants and gardens, where provisions may be obtained at reasonable prices. There are some large sheets of water, well stocked with fish, but strictly preserved.

Groenendael (Station), 6 miles from Brussels, is situated in the heart of the Forest, and conveyances may be got for Waterloo in one hour. Near the station may be seen the ruined foundations of a priory, which once existed here, and which must have been a large pile of building.

La Hulpe (Station), 9 miles from Brussels, is a village of some importance. It was once a provincial town. From the station there is a fine view over an extensive sheet of water, towards the country seat of the Marquis de Bethune, which is a remarkably fine house, with extensive grounds. From the high ground above the station may be seen, on a clear day, the monumental lion on the field of Waterloo.

Rixensart (Station).

Ottignies (Station) is 12 miles from Brussels, and forms the junction of the Charleroi and Louvain and the Manage and Wavre lines with that of the Luxembourg (as below). It is one

common station for the three companies. There is a considerable movement here, owing to the change of trains by passengers and the goods traffic passing from one line to another.

Court St. Etienne (Station).—On leaving this station the traveller should remember that he is approaching one of the most singular and beautiful views in Europe, viz.-The ruins of the Abbey le Villers.

Villers la Ville (Station).-The line passes through the garden of the Abbey, and generally so rapidly, that only a glimpse can be obtained of these magnificent ruins. The Tourist should therefore make an excursion expressly to visit them from Brussels, or alight at this station and take a subsequent train on to Paris; but the former course is the most pleasant. The Abbey le Villers is one of the most splendid, romantic, and picturesque piles in Europe.

The best view of the ruins is from the terrace gardens beyond the railway; but it is impossible to say which excites the most admiration, the view from the heights around, or a walk through the ruins. No one can behold the refectory, the cloisters, the crypts, the breviary, and last the magnificent ruins of the beautiful church, without feelings of awe and wonder. It is a scene of surpassing beauty, particularly in the effulgence of the noon day or setting sun.

The Abbey le Villers was first pillaged, and then set fire to by a party of French Republican soldiers in 1789. The ruins were then sold to a person of the name of La Terrade for 70,000fr., who continued the work of destruction, and left the present ruins, which, with the adjacent land, is now the property of Madeline Huart d'Enghien.

Charleroi (Station).

Hotels: Du Grande Monarque; De Pays Bas; De l'Univers.

Population, 13,500.

The centre of flourishing collieries, on the Sambre, having the ruins of the old Abbey d'Alne near it, founded in the year 656.

At Charleroi the line branches off, and leads to Walcourt, and having offshoots to Laneffe, Morialme, and Florenne. See Route 8.

After passing Erquelinnes, St. Quentin, Creil, and some stations of less importance, we arrive at Paris.

ROUTE 7A. Brussels to Namur, Liége, and Cologne. Ottignies Station, Great Luxembourg line. The scenery by this route is exceedingly fine, particularly between Namur and Liége.

Mont St. Guibert (Station), at a picturesque village. There are the remains of an old castle on the property of Mr. Deman, which will be seen from the railway. The château itself is worth seeing, but the grounds are only open to the public on the payment of half a franc each, which Mr. Deman gives to the poor of the commune.

Gembloux (Station), where the line from Fleurus to Ramillies crosses, near a small town (population, 2,320), the trade of which is cutlery. It lies in a hollow.

Rhisnes (Station). The last station before reaching Namur, in a lovely country. After passing several cuttings, the line is carried over a long bank, below which lies the river Sambre, presenting a rich scene.

Namur (Station).-Route 8.

ROUTE 7B.

Brussels to Paris, by way of Mons and Quiévrain.

Brussels to Soignies and Jurbise, see Route 2.

Between Jurbise and Mons the road presents many engineering difficulties. On approaching Mons the traveller sees its steeples, towers, and fortifications stretched before him. Before entering the town, the commune of Nimy and the river Haine are passed; running parallel to one another, the railroad and river pass through a bastion, and enter the town together. The Station is situated within the arsenal.

Mons (Station). Hotels: De la Couronne; De l'Aigle Noir; Royal; Du Singe d'Or.

A large and fortified town, 38 miles from Brussels, the chief town of the province of Hainault. Population (1873), 24,234. The river Trouille divides it into two parts, and is partly overlooked by the mound of the Panina. It is said that Julius Cæsar built a castle here, which, taking the name of Castrum Cæsaris, formed the beginning of the town of Mons--destroyed by the barbarians in the

fifth century. Alberic, Count of Hainault, repaired the remains of the town, and surrounded it with walls. In 804, Charlemagne formed it nto the capital of a province. Mons after this became the scene of many troubles. Under the reign of Charles V. it had its greatest degree of prosperity; the manufactures of cloth and serge were carried on to a great extent. Iron was wrought here to great advantage, and the beauty of the chasing in their jewellery excited the admiration of strangers. Under the French Republic, Mons became the department of Jemappes. The fortifications,

rebuilt in 1815, upon a new plan, are preserved with much care. The streets are steep, but wide, clean, and in good repair. The monuments and curiosities are numerous, and worthy of attention.

Mons was the natal town of Orlando Lassus, the celebrated musician of the sixteenth century. Ten miles south of Mons, within the French territories, is the spot where was fought the sanguinary battle of Malplaquet, at which the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene conquered the French and lost on the battle field 20,000 men.

Mons has a communication with the Scheldt by the Canal de Condé; and also, by railway, with Jurbise, Ath, Tournai, Lille, and Calais.

Mons also possesses manufactures of gloves, leather, and cutlery, and several tan-yards and bleaching grounds. The principal buildings are the Castle, the Hôtel de Ville, and the Church of St. Waudru, which is said to be built on the site of Cæsar's Castle. The altar deserves attention. There is also a Theatre, a Public Library, a College, and a Foundling Hospital. Mons was the birthplace of Peter Denys, a journeyman blacksmith, who constructed the beautiful iron ornaments which decorate the Abbey of St. Denis, near Paris.

Church of St. Waudru is said to be the finest in Belgium. It was founded in 1460, on the site of another church, burnt in 1169. More than a century elapsed ere the works were finished. The nave is a masterpiece of boldness, elegance, and lightness; the numerous columns which adorn it, and form innumerable Gothic arches at the top, compose a most delightful whole. Space will not permit us to enter further into detail in connection with the many curiosities of this church, save in

allowing us to notice the splendid picture of the Exaltation of St. Francis, by Van Thulden; a Descent from the Cross, by Teniers; a Gothic altar, finely sculptured; the beautiful stained glass in the windows; and last, though not least, the fine statues, formerly adorning the screen, but happily preserved.

St. Elizabeth.-This church is remarkable for its light and graceful spire.

St. Nicholas, in Havre, is noted for the severe and imposing aspect of the interior. It possesses some fine carving in wood. From the tower of the belfry a magnificent view of the surrounding country is obtained.

The Public Library is open every day; it contains 13,000 volumes, and about 300 manuscripts.

Hôtel de Ville is a Gothic edifice, erected in the year 1440. It contains nothing remarkable, but is the chief ornament of the Grand Square.

The Palais de Justice and Museum will well repay a visit.

At Mons a branch railway ensures a direct communication from Paris to Charleroi, Namur, and Cologne. This route avoids the detour to Braine-le-Comte. On leaving Mons, the railway crosses the river Trouille, and passes not very far from the Canal de Condé and the sluices of St. Ghislain; after which it reaches Jemappes Station.

MONS TO QUIÉVRAIN.-After leaving the fortification, the railroad inclines at first towards the right, traversing an extensive plain, bounded on the left by the Panisel and the little hills of Flènu, and crowned by the high chimneys of numerous coal works. The canal from Mons to Condé, which, for a distance of five leagues, runs in a perfectly straight line, is seen on the left, as also the village of Cuesme, the theatre of one of the most sanguinary episodes of the celebrated battle of Jemappes. Passing the levant of Flènu,

Jemappes (Station) is reached. Population, 4,670. It is remarkable for the victory gained by the French under General Dumourier, and the late Louis Philippe, when Duke de Chartres, over the Austrians, 1792. A stone close to the post road marks the scene of the battle. Outside the town are mmense heaps of coal; these are the accumulations

of a busy time, brought to supply an apparent demand, which, however, did not last long. The village of Quaregnon is passed after leaving Jemappes, near to which are seen the ruins of the ancient tower, known by the name of the High Court. The railroad here takes a considerable bend, and shortly after runs into the straight line, which continues to the frontier. The country on each side is in high cultivation, and adorned with many beautiful country houses.

St. Ghislain (Station) is next reached, the church of which is on the right. On the left are the magnificent establishments of Hornu, established by the late Mad. Degorges Legrand. St. Ghislain is a very ancient town; population, 1,800. The surrounding country very much resembles the neighbourhood of Manchester and Bolton.

Boussu (Station) is the next. The chief place of a canton; population, 3,500. The château of the Count de Caraman, at present the property of the Count de Nedonchelles, is here situated. This architectural wonder should be seen by the tourist; there are many remarkable traditions connected with it. The station has been erected in a part of the magnificent park, from which it is separated by a splendid iron railing. The church of Boussu contains some fine pieces of sculpture. Between Boussu and Thulin, the next station, there is nothing worthy of notice. Quiévrain is arrived at shortly after leaving Thulin; it is the last station of the Belgian Railway. The office of the Belgian Custom House is here, and the passports and baggage of parties entering Belgium are examined.

Quiévrain (Station)-the Belgian Custom House. A town containing 2,180 inhabitants, carrying on an active commerce with France. It does not absolutely contain anything worth notice. This is the frontier station of the Southern Line and the point of junction with the Great Northern of France Railway.

Blanc Misseron (Station)--on French soil-is next met with, after which we enter

Valenciennes (Station).-Route 1.

Valenciennes to Paris by rail. The delay during the examination of luggage which takes place at Valenciennes is considerable.