At the west end of Princes Street are ST. JOHN'S EPISCOPAL CHAPEL,* and ST. CUTHBERT'S CHURCH (Church of Scotland), the former an elegant structure of the florid Gothic order, the latter an unsightly pile of huge dimensions, with a double gallery.

Turning to the north, the stranger will now enter Charlotte Square, a spacious quadrangle of excellent houses. In the centre of its western side stands ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH, the handsomest modern place of worship in the Scotch Establishment, and erected at a cost of £33,000.

After passing along the narrow lane by the side of St. George's, and through Charlotte Place, the stranger will turn to the right, and proceed by Melville Place, Randolph Crescent, and Lynedoch Place, to the DEAN BRIDGE, for the erection of which Edinburgh is principally indebted to the enterprise of the late Mr. Learmonth of Dean, who contributed largely to the expense of its construction, in connection with the improvement of his property on the northern side of the river. The roadway passes at the great height of 106 feet above the bed of the stream. The arches are four in number, each 96 feet span, the breadth between the parapets being 39 feet, and the total length of the bridge 447 feet. The design was furnished by the late Mr. Telford. The view from the bridge is very striking and beautiful. At the western end of this bridge is Trinity Episcopal Chapel, beautifully situated, and beyond it are the handsome new ranges of buildings called Buckingham Terrace, Clarendon Crescent, Eton and Oxford Terrace, and Lennox Street.

Proceeding westwards for about a quarter of a mile, a road will be observed on the left, which conducts to the Dean Cemetery, situated on a steep bank of the Water of Leith,

* In one of the vaults of this chapel, Sir William Hamilton, the celebrated metaphysician, is interred, and the following inscription has been put up in the vault:-"In memory of SIR WILLIAM HAMILTON, BARONET, Professor of Logic and Metaphysics in the University of Edinburgh, who died 6th May 1856, aged 68 years. His aim was, by a pure philosophy, to teach that now we see through a glass darkly, now we know in part. His hope, that in the life to come he should see face to face, and know even as also he is known." It is not often that so much humility and truth meet over the grave of so much greatness. Among the other Episcopal Chapels may be named St. Paul's, York Place, a structure of much elegance; Trinity Chapel, at the Dean Bridge; St. Thomas', Rutland Street; St. Peter's, Newington; and St. Columba's, Castle Hill.

which is here adorned with lofty trees. Here have been interred some of the principal inhabitants, among others Lord Jeffrey, Lord Cockburn, Lord Rutherfurd, Lord Murray, Professor Wilson (Christopher North), and others. A little beyond this, on the left, is Stewart's Hospital, an elegant building designed by David Rhind, Esq., which displays a mixture of the Scotch castellated dwelling with that of the last period of domestic Gothic.

The stranger may now retrace his steps to Randolph Crescent, through which he will pass to Great Stuart Street, Ainslie Place, and

MORAY PLACE.

This is the quarter of the city most celebrated for the architectural magnificence of its buildings. The ground is the property of the Earl of Moray, and the various streets, squares, and crescents erected upon it, are in accordance with a uniform plan designed by the late Gillespie Graham, architect. Objections have been taken to the simplicity of style, and massiveness of structure, which particularly distinguish these buildings, as imparting an aspect of solemnity and gloom "The repugnant to the character of domestic architecture. New Town of Edinburgh," says Dr. James Johnson, in his work entitled The Recess, "is beautifully monotonous, and magnificently dull." Until philosophers shall succeed in establishing a uniform standard of taste, it will be vain to contend with such cavillers; we may only observe, that the massive dignity of the architecture in this quarter of the city has called forth the admiration of the large majority of intelligent visitors. Nor is the substantial comfort of the dwellings to be overlooked. The walls are of the most solid and durable masonry, both the building materials and workmanship being of the best description. The house, No. 24, which the stranger passes in following the line of route we have adopted, was the residence of Lord Jeffrey. No. 20, now the Windsor Hotel, was the residence of the late Hon. John Hope, Lord Justice-Clerk.

Leaving Moray Place by Darnaway Street, the stranger is introduced to another range of those pleasure-grounds which

tend so much to beautify the city. Ascending from the west end of Heriot Row, and the first opening on the right (Wemyss Place), we reach Queen Street, which overlooks the garden. Through the openings formed by the streets running to the north, beautiful glimpses are obtained of the Firth of Forth, the shores of Fife, and the Ochil Hills; and in some states of the atmosphere the peaks of the Grampians may be seen in the distance. Proceeding eastward along Queen Street, the first opening on the right is Castle Street, in which the house numbered 39 was the town residence of Sir Walter Subsequently it was occupied by Professor Napier, editor of the Edinburgh Review. Continuing the route up Castle Street, the stranger reaches

GEORGE STREET,

and proceeding eastward, he will observe the Pitt Statue occupying the spot where the street is intersected by Frederick Street. The statue is executed by Chantrey, and is regarded as a favourable specimen of his bronzes. Still continuing to proceed eastward, THE ASSEMBLY ROOMS will be seen upon the right. Their external appearance is plain and unpretending, the only approach to ornament being the four Doric columns doing duty as a portico in the front of the building. In these Rooms are held the public assemblies and concerts, and other meetings of various kinds. The Music-room, a recent addition to the original edifice, forms the largest of the apartments, and is fitted up in an appropriate style. The principal Ball-room is 92 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 40 feet high. There are also various other apartments of smaller dimensions.

A little to the east, where Hanover Street intersects George Street, stands Chantrey's statue of George IV., wholly unworthy of the fame of that gifted artist.

Continuing our progress eastward, ST. ANDREW'S CHURCH stands upon the left. And on the opposite side is the Commercial Bank of Scotland, the vestibule of which is worthy of the notice of strangers.

The east end of George Street opens into ST. ANDREW SQUARE, one of the principal business places of the city. The Melville Monument, which graces the centre of the

Square, was erected in 1821 by the voluntary contributions of officers and seamen, to the memory of the famous Lord Melville, Treasurer of the Navy and coadjutor of Pitt, whose impeachment for culpable laxity in transactions relating to public money (from which he was acquitted by the House of Lords) was one of the bitterest pangs of Pitt's life. It rises 136 feet in height, to which the statue adds other 14 feet. The design is that of the Trajan column, the shaft being fluted instead of ornamented with sculpture as in the ancient model. In the third floor of the house in the northwest corner of the Square (No. 21) Lord Brougham was born; and the house directly opposite, in the south-west corner, with entrance from St. David Street, was the residence of David Hume.

*

In the centre of the east side of the Square, standing apart from the other buildings, is the Royal Bank. In front of the building is an equestrian statue of John, fourth Earl of Hopetoun. The building to the south of the Royal Bank is the very elegant banking house of the British Linen Company, a structure somewhat novel in style, but very attractive, designed by David Bryce, R.S.A.

* In the month of October 1859, on the occasion of Lord Brougham's being installed as Chancellor of the University, he attended divine service at St. Andrew's Church, occupying a seat in the pew he was accustomed to sit in when resident in Edinburgh; and in the afternoon, desirous of visiting the place of his birth and the scenes of his early youth, he proceeded alone to 21 St. Andrew Square, went through every room in both flats of the house, and looked out at the window at which more than seventy years ago he was wont to sit and gaze on the scenery of the Forth. The emotion was great as the associations of his childhood crowded upon his memory, and it was pleasing and touching to find that the veteran statesman had through the vicissitudes of a stormy political life of more than half a century preserved, undiminished by age and honours, so vivid and cherished a recollection of his boyhood.-Scotsman.

LEITH AND GRANTON.

Leith may be reached either by Omnibus or Rail.

LEITH, the sea-port of Edinburgh, is distant about a mile and a half from the centre of the metropolis. It was not only the first, but, for several centuries, the only port in Scotland, traces of its existence being found in documents of the twelfth century; and, during its early history, few places were so often the scene of military operations.

Among the few antiquities of any interest which remain in Leith, may be mentioned the Parish Church of South Leith, a Gothic edifice, built previous to the year 1496, and the old church of North Leith, founded in 1493. In the Links, upon the south-east side of the town, may be seen several mounds, raised for the purpose of planting cannon, by the besieging army of Cromwell, in 1560.

The modern streets of the town are spacious and well built, but the older ones are irregular and contracted. Various ranges of private dwellings have been erected of late years on. the eastern and western skirts of the town.

room.

The modern public buildings worthy of remark are the New Corn Exchange, a handsome building, where business is transacted daily; the Assembly Rooms, an elegant structure in the Grecian style of architecture, containing spacious and handsome ball-room, a commodious hotel, and public readingThe Custom-House, situated in North Leith, is also a very handsome building; but the new Court House is by far the most elegant building in the town, and forms altogether, whether the chasteness of the design, or the neatness of the workmanship be considered, a very favourable specimen of modern architecture on a small scale. The Parish Church of North Leith is a handsome though unpretending structure, surmounted by a tasteful spire; and the living is one of the best in the Church of Scotland.