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sisted that, during his stay, all the waiters and stable-boys of the Castle' should wear his livery."

In the Rebellion Marlborough was stormed and partly burnt by the royalists under Wilmot, 1642, when John Franklin, the popular member, and several of the townsmen were sent prisoners to Oxford. In the following year the King and Prince Rupert defeated the Earl of Essex on Aldbourn Chace; and in the spring of 1644 Charles reviewed his army on the same ground, being quartered for the time at Marlborough Castle, then the residence of Lord Seymour. The principal things to be noticed in Marlborough are some Old Houses, the College, and a White Horse, on the Calne road. In the neighbourhood are objects of interest to engage the traveller 3 or 4 days, viz. :

1. A cromlech, known as the Devil's Den, the so-called barrow of Silbury Hill, and the remains of the great serpent Temple of Avebury.

2. Martensell Hill and the Wans

dyke.

3. Savernake Forest and Tottenham. 4. Littlecot.

These require a full description, but first the stranger should be introduced to the High-street. This forms an airy broadway, very suitable for a market or fair, and is terminated on the W. by the Church of St. Peter and Marlborough College, on the E. by the Town Hall and Church of St. Mary. St. Mary's has an ancient tower, the entrance ornamented with a zigzag moulding; and the Town Hall bears the dates 1653, 1793. On the N. side of the street are several old houses with picturesque gables, carved timbers, and scaly coats of tile-work, the more interesting because no glaring novelties intrude among them.

Marlborough College is a handsome structure of red brick, occupying the site of the castle. The central part of it is of considerable age, being a remnant of the Great House, built by

Sir Francis Seymour, the grandson of the Protector, created Baron Seymour by Charles I. during the Rebellion. In 1643, however, his mansion was held by Sir Nevile Poole for the Parliament. In the following year it afforded quarters to Charles I, and his staff, and after the Restoration to Charles II. and his Queen, who, in a progress to the west, were here received in great state by Lord Seymour. Early in the 18th cent. it was the residence of the Earl and Countess of Hertford, and the hospitable resort of Thomson, Pope, Dr. Watts, and other literary characters; and, on the death of the Countess, it underwent a change into the Castle Inn, one of the best on the old Bath road in the days of coaching. To this ancient house wings and other appendages have been added, and, apart from it, has been built a large chapel of stone. About 500 boys are educated at this school, the foundation being limited to the sons of the clergy. In the College garden remains the mound of the keep and only vestige of Marlborough Castle, which, founded in the reign of Henry I., by the bold Bishop Roger of Salisbury, was an important place during the wars of the Barons. It was captured by Stephen, seized by John, but honoured as a royal residence by Henry III. and his court. Of the date or reason of its destruction nothing is known save that they had occurred before Camden wrote his Britannia.' The principal entrance to the College is from the Calne road, and beyond it is seen the figure of a white horse, in a trotting attitude, cut on the chalky slope of the valley. It is the work of no Celt or Saxon, but of some modern schoolboys, who had seen the white horses of Cherhill and Bratton.

The Devil's Den, Avebury, and Silbury Hill, may be placed together as objects for a day's excursion from Marlborough. The first lies to the rt. of the carriage-road to Avebury, but directly

The church is situated outside the earthen ring or rampart. It is an ancient building of flint and stone, internally modernised, but retaining a curious Norman font, and an entrance-arch ornamented with a zigzag moulding. Adjoining it is Avebury House, the parsonage.

in the path of one on foot, at least | It occupies an area of 28 acres, once that which he is advised to pursue. partitioned into circular spaces by The distance to Avebury is 6 m. The Druidic stones, now cut into quadtraveller leaves the town by the rants by roads from the four cardinal Calne and Devizes road, and at points, but still girt by the original 1 m. from Marlborough has the en- earthen mound and ditch. It is trance to Clatford Bottom on his rt., circled again at a distance of m. through a gate opposite the farm- by an irregular belt of Celtic barhouse of Clatford; m. up this rows, many of large size and sharp winding vale is the cromlech called symmetrical outline. the Devil's Den, i. e. the Devil's house or cave. It is about 10 ft. high, consisting of a slab stone supported on 2 upright blocks, the remnant of 4 which originally propped the impost, and formed a sort of cave, whence the name. It is considered a Druidic monument, bearing a relation to the neighbouring temple of Avebury, and perhaps marks the burial-place of some once famous priest or chieftain, but more probably it was the sepulchre of a family. Proceeding up the valley the traveller will soon find himself entangled among boulders of sarsen, or silicious sandstone, which extend for upwards of a mile, and present one of the most remarkable geological phenomena in the country. He will thread this labyrinth of grey stones, and, having passed a ride from the Marlborough racecourse, which crosses the vale obliquely, ascend the hill on the 1., and steer direct for Avebury. The vantage ground of this hill will afford him an excellent view not only of the surrounding country, but of the interesting spot he is approaching. He will look upon an extensive basin, begirt by a circle of barrows, and containing in the centre, within a grassy ring or rampart, the remains of the great serpent temple and the modern village of Avebury; and towards the S., upon the culminating ridge of the Marlborough Downs, sweeping from Bowood to Savernake, and scored by a long waved line marking the course of the Belgic boundary, the Wansdyke.

Avebury or Abury is wholly built from the ruins of the ancient temple.

The stranger should obtain a general view of Avebury from the rampart, which is about 50 ft. high from the fosse, and little injured except near the church, where it is levelled. He will be probably much impressed by the singularity of a scene so unlike any other that he can have witnessed the earthen ring, the vast Druidic stones, and Silbury, that wonder of the county, a hill in size, but in shape so strange and artificial. Of the circles which formed the temple the remains now consist of about a dozen stones, scattered at wide intervals through the grassy paddocks, in which they seem strangely out of place. A group of 4 at the entrance from Marlborough are the most remarkable. Upwards of 600 have been destroyed, and their broken fragments now form the roads, the cottages, and the hedges. It may be truly said that even their ruins have perished.

Avebury was first described by Stukeley; and at the time when he commenced his survey, about 1740, its plan could be traced. The area was enclosed by a rampart and ditch, the ditch being inside the rampart. Within the ditch was a circle such as giants might have formed, consisting of 100 rough, enormous stones fixed upright in the ground

the sun.

at intervals of 27 ft. Its diam. was planets had started in the beginning no less than m. In the enclo- of time, and to which they would sure thus formed were 2 double con- return on the completion of the centric circles. The outer circles of cycle of cycles, or magnus annus, each of these consisted of 30 stones, when the world was to end. Under the inner of 12, enclosing in the one this view he considers that the earth, a single block 20 ft. high; in the then regarded as the centre of the other a group of 3 placed in triangu- universe, was represented by Silbury lar order. Such was the temple. Hill; the Sun and Moon by the The avenues which led to it ex- circles of Abury (Abiri, Phoenician tended 2 m. in length, and were each or Hebrew, the Mighty Ones); the formed of 100 stones arranged in Ecliptic by the avenues, or serpent; double lines. The one came from Venus by a stone circle at Winterthe S.W. (Beckhampton), and com- bourne Bassett; Mercury by Walkmenced with a single stone, the er's Hill; Mars by an earthwork other from the S.E. (Overton), where at Marden, in the Vale of Pewsey; it began with a double concentric Jupiter by Casterley camp, on the circle. With the exception of a edge of Salisbury Plain; and, lastly, couple of blocks near Beckhampton, Saturn, by the celebrated monument they are now destroyed. It was of Stonehenge. These works are Stukeley's opinion that they repre- admitted by antiquaries to have been sented the serpent, the symbol of erected for religious purposes. They are also situated on a line running Of the origin of Avebury nothing N. and S., and at distances from each certain is known; but antiquaries other which, if accidental, bear a are agreed that it was of much earlier curious relation to those of the date than that of the trilithons of planets. Our author also remarks, Stonehenge. The rough unhewn that the stones at Abury represented surfaces and primitive arrangement either numerical or astronomical of the stones were proof of high anti- cycles, the former being compounded quity. The structure differed essen- of the mystic four, or tetragramtially from the simple Druid circles maton, sacred as the number of common in Cornwall, but was evi- letters by which the name of the dently designed for religious, or at Supreme Being was expressed in least purposes distinct from those of early languages. Thus the 100 war, by the circumstance of the ditch stones of the bounding ring were 4 being inside the vallum. Stukeley twenty-five times repeated, and the pronounces it a Druid temple-in- 400 of the avenue 100 four times deed, "the great cathedral, the chief repeated; whilst the 30 of the outer metropolitical or patriarchal temple ring of each double circle represented of the island;" while others con- the Lunar cycle, or days of the sider that it might also have been month; and the 12 of the inner used as a place of meeting by na- the cycle or months of the year. tional councils. A bold hypothesis" Thus," says Mr. Duke, "was has been adduced by Mr. Duke, in his 'Druidical Temples of Wiltshire.' He contends that our rude forefathers delineated on the Wiltshire downs a planetarium or stationary orrery, in which the sun and planets were represented on a meridional line from N. to S., a position from which the ancients believed the

formed a standing almanac, enabling the priest to reckon the passing day, and to observe the religious festivals as they arose in the perpetual and ever-flowing course of time." For a full account of Avebury, and a complete epitome of all that is at present known on the subject, the reader is referred to a paper by Mr. Long,

in the Wiltshire Magazine, No. XII.

visitor should ascend to the top for an interesting view, and he should here call to mind Southey's 'Inscription for a tablet,' for, if not applicable to Silbury, it may at least be

Silbury Hill rises from the valley of the Kennet, about a mile S.S.E. of Avebury church. It is truly, as its Saxon name expresses, a "mar-transferred to one of the many barvellous hill," so exact are its geome- rows which surround it :trical proportions, so huge its size. In shape a cone flattened at the top, it covers upwards of 5 acres, its contents being estimated at 13,558,809 cubic ft. Its sides slope

at an angle of about 35°; its height is 135 ft.-nearly equal to that of St. Michael's Mount on the coast of Cornwall; its diam., measured at the base, 500 ft., at the top 165 ft.that of the area of Stonehenge. It has been calculated that to raise such a mound in our days would cost no less a sum than 20,000l. With respect to the character of this ancient work, it will probably long remain a subject for discussion. Although generally regarded as a part of the adjoining temple-as the mimic Ararat of the Druid priestSilbury has been considered by some, and by Stukeley among the number, as a simple barrow, the burial-place of the founder of Avebury. If this be true, it is the largest monument of the kind existing in this kingdom, and probably in the world. There are, however, many reasons for doubting it, and not the least the fact that no trace of any interment could be discovered when the hill was opened by Cornish miners, under the direction of the late Duke of Northumberland and Colonel Drax, in 1777; or in 1849, when a space 12 ft. in diam., in the very centre of the mound, was examined by means of a tunnel, under the superintendence of the Dean of Hereford. "The name Sil- or Sul-bury," says a writer in the Quarterly Review, is suggestive of the god Sul or Sol, to whom the hot springs of Bath, 'aquæ Sulis,' were certainly dedicated, and who was probably worshipped in the adjoining fane." The

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This mound, in some remote and dateless day

Rear'd o'er a chieftain of the age of hills, May here detain thee, traveller! from thy road

Not idly lingering. In his narrow house Some warrior sleeps below, whose gallant deeds

Haply at many a solemn festival

The Scald hath sung; but perish'd is the

song

Of praise, as o'er these bleak and barren downs

The wind that passes and is heard no more. Go, traveller, and remember, when the pomp Of earthly glory fades, that one good deed, Unseen, unheard, unnoted by mankind, Lives in the eternal register of Heaven." Bristol, 1796.

Another excursion from Marlborough is to Martensell Hill, or to St. Ann's Hill, heights of about 1000 ft. above the sea. 3 m. S. of this town the chalk range is divided by the Vale of Pewsey, which separates the Marlborough Downs from Salisbury Plain; and Martensell and St. Ann's are elevated points on the steep escarpment. They therefore command a most extensive prospect, including Salisbury Plain and the Forest of Savernake.

Martensell is situated about 3 m. from Marlborough, to the 1. of the road to Pewsey. It is a fine bold hill, descending sheer on the E., and throwing out a spur to the S.W. The ditch and rampart of a Celtic camp gird the summit, enclosing an area of 31 acres, and commanding a distant view of the entrenched heights of Sidbury, Chlorus, Clearbury, Bratton, and Clee Hill, of Salisbury Spire and Alfred's Tower. If we proceed W. from Martensell along this ridge of high land, we shall reach in succession Hewish Hill, remarkable for extensive vestiges of a British village; Knap Hill, crowned by an earthwork of high antiquity,

about 2 m. N. of Wilton; the 4th was the Wansdyke, which at this day may be traced through Wiltshire for 19 m., including gaps; but it is supposed to have formerly extended from the Thames to the Severn. The part of it which remains consists of a huge rampart and ditch, the ditch on the northern side, and runs in a waved line along the summit of the hills, which being unenclosed and solitary contribute much to the effect of this rude bulwark of a race so long passed away. "Offa's Dyke in Wales and the Wansdyke in England," says Sir R. C. Hoare," are the most conspicuous examples of the ancient territorial boundaries.” person walking from Marlborough to Devizes can pursue a delightful route along this dyke. He will proceed by the Calne road as far as Fyfield (some 2 m.), there turn to the 1. (by the Fighting Cocks) to Lockeridge, situated in a bottom among boulders of sandstone, and thence direct his way to the summit of the downs. He will reach the dyke about 1 m. E. of St. Ann's Hill, and from that

A

enclosing 2 tumuli; Walker's Hill, conspicuous by its long barrow or altar; and beyond Walker's HillSt. Ann's, which rises 5 m. W. of Martensell. It is the highest point of the Marlborough Downs, and known throughout Wilts and the neighbouring counties as the site of Tan Hill Fair, held annually for pleasure and business on the 6th of Aug. "The corruption of St. Ann's Hill to Tan Hill," says Mr. Duke, "is curious, but obviously thus St. Ann's Hill, S'tan Hill, Tan Hill." There, is, however, another derivation of the name, from the Celtic Tanaris, the god of thunder, to whom there might have been a temple on the hill. "It is well-known," says Bowles, in his Life of Ken," that Pope Gregory gave directions to his missionaries not to change the places of assembly where Pagan rites were celebrated, but to dedicate them afresh to Christian saints, and turn the Pagan into Christian rites. Hence the hill of Tanaris became that of St. Ann, and Cad-a-Ryne, the fortification above the water, St. Catherine." On the projecting but-point can follow it N.W. unchecked tress of St. Ann's rests the old camp of Rybury, formed by a single bank and ditch, and evidently the work of a primitive people; and along the summit of the hill runs that interesting relic of antiquity,

by hedge or other impediment, to Shepherd's Shore, on the Devizes and Swindon road, or farther to the heights N. of Roundaway Down, scene of the rout of Waller in 1644. He will then quit it and turn S. over The Wansdyke, which is still to be Roundaway to Devizes. This route seen in its pristine state on the along the Wansdyke will give the downs between Walker's Hill (W. traveller an insight into the characof Martensell) and Heddington. It ter of the Marlborough Downs. He is generally considered to have been will walk along the crest of the the boundary of the Belga, who dwelt dominant ridge, with a glorious prosto the S. and the W. of it, and who pect continually in view; and as probably constructed it as a defence his course lies westward, the setting against the Britons or the Romans. sun, gilding the long perspective of Dr. Stukeley mentions 4 great the dyke, will charm him on his ditches as marking the advance of way. He will be much impressed this people from the S. The 1st by the strange form of Silbury rising extended through Dorsetshire from in the distant vale, and his curiosity Shaftesbury to Wimborne; the 2nd, may be excited by certain rectancalled the Bokerley Ditch, skirted gular enclosures on the northern side the N. side of Cranbourne Chace; of the dyke. These are formed by the 3rd traversed Salisbury Plain, a low earthen rampart and ditch,

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