Above this picture are three smaller ones by the same artists; the centre represents Christ on a ihrone, holding a crystal sceptre, surmounted by a large sapphire; the transparency of the crystal is represented with an effect almost magical: the left-hand picture is an exquisite representation of the Virgin, and that on the right is an equally fine figure of St. John the Baptist. These four pictures, whether considered with reference to the date of their execution, or to their intrinsic merit, must rank among the most valuable in Belgium. In the fourteenth chapel is a fine picture by Rubens, representing the Reception of St. Amand in the Abbey of St. Bavon, after he had given all his property to the poor. The fifteenth contains the Resurrection of Lazarus, by Otto Vennius, the master of Rubens, and also Judas Maccabeus seeking a place of Burial for his Soldiers. In the sixteenth is the Martyrdom of St. Lieven, the patron of Ghent, by Seghers. The seventeenth has a copy from Rubens' picture of the Martyrdom of St. Catherine, the original of which is in the Church of St. Catherine, at Lille. In front of the chapel is the mausoleum of Bishop G. Van Eersel, executed by Charles Van Pouche and F. Janssens, after the designs of the former. The nineteenth chapel contains the Seven Works of Mercy, by Coexie; in the twentieth is the font in which Charles V. was baptised; the twenty-first has the Assumption of the Virgin, by Crayer; in the twenty-second is one of the finest productions of Crayer, representing St. Machaire praying for the cessation of the plague; before the altar is a bas-relief in white marble, by M. Portois, representing the body of St. Machaire carried in procession. The altar-piece of the twenty-third chapel represents St. Stambart carrying burning coals on an unconsumed surplice to St. Sandoalt; this pic ture is by Van Huffel. The twenty-fourth and last chapel contains a Descent from the Cross, by Rambants, which is esteemed the finest production of that artist. Fee to sacristan, who shows the chapels, 1 franc for each person. Open from 10 a.m, Entrance, between 10 and 4, may be gained by knocking at the side-door on the left of the entrance. The organ has a fine tone, but is placed in a situation which offends the eye, from interfering with the harmony of the construction of the rest of the edifice. The Pulpit, which is the workmanship of Lawrence Delvaux, of Ghent, is in the centre of the right nave, and is considered one of the most beautiful in Belgium. It is composed of white marble and oak. The tree of life supports the pulpit, and covers the sounding-board with its branches. At the foot of the tree is seated a figure of Time, represented as a venerable old man, whose eyes are covered with a thick veil, which he is lifting up in order to contemplate the features of Truth, who presents herself before him as a beautiful woman, holding an open book, in which are traced the words "Surge qui dormis, illuminabit te Christus," "Arise thou that sleepest, Christ shall give thee light." At the foot of each staircase are two angels. The four fronts of this exquisite piece of workmanship, which cost 37,000 florins (£2,960), are ornamented with bas-reliefs in white marble. Another most perfect work of art in this cathedral is the mausoleum of Bishop Triest, by Jerome Duquesnoy; it consists of a statue of the bishop contemplating the cross borne by our Saviour. On the opposite side is a figure of the Virgin, and two small angels are stationed at the bottom of the mausoleum. The visitor should not leave St. Bavon without descending into the Crypt (A.D. 941), a low subterranean arch under the choir. It is divided into five chapels, adorned with paintings, and containing the tombs of John and Hubert Van Eyck, and his sister, also a painter, who might be reckoned an enthusiast in the art, as she rejected all offers of marriage, in order to devote herself entirely to its study. The Church of St. Nicholas is one of the most ancient in Ghent. It was burned in 1120, but re-built later on the same plan. This edifice suffered much in the religious wars. The Church of St. Pierre is a building of the seventeenth century. It is approached through a beautiful square, and contains a few good paintings by Crayer, Janssens, &c. The Church of St. Michael, in the centre of the city, is remarkable for the elegance and lightness of its architecture, of a mixed style, partly floridGothic, partly Renaissance, which is seen to advantage from the open space in which it is situated. The square tower which surmounts the church, was begun in 1445, and was to have been carried to a height of 400 feet, but the design has never been completed. In the twelfth chapel of this edifice, is a magnificent picture of the Crucifixion, by Van Dyck, the only work of this master which is to be found in any of the public buildings of Ghent. Each of the chapels, which are twelve in number, contains one or more pictures of various merit. It will be sufficient to direct the attention of the amateur to the Annunciation, by Lens, and the Assumption, by François, both in the newly finished chapel, to the right of the cross of the church; the Apotheosis of St. Catherine in the third chapel, by Crayer, and the Finding of the Cross, by the Empress Helena, whose figure, represented in the picture, was furnished by the Empress Josephine, who sat for the model. There are also in this church numerous paintings by Belgian artists, and a St. Francis of Paula, by Ribera. The organ recently erected in this church is remarkable for its sweetness. The pulpit of massive mahogany is handsome. Sacristan, 1 franc for a single person. St. Jacques is situated in a vast square. It was destroyed in 1720, and afterwards rebuilt. It has two good paintings of Jan van Cleef, and some monumental sculpture of merit from the chisel of Van Poucke. The Church of St. Martin has a magnificent painting of the Resurrection, by Crayer, said to be his master-piece. The Dominican Oratory deserves to be inspected on account of its bold and lofty wooden vault, designed by the Dominican Francis Romain, in 1700. The Béguinage.-The community of Béguines is said to have been founded by St. Begga, Duchess of Brabant, and sister of Philip of Landen, and is peculiar to the Netherlands. Clement V. issued a bull against these sisters, but John XXII. revoked it, and accorded them many indulgences. It is one of the few nunneries not swept away by the fury of the French revolution, or suppressed Their existence received a legal by Joseph II. ratification in 1826. The sisters are bound by no vow, and may return to the world at any time. Their chief duty is to attend to the sick and visit the hospitals, where they are constantly to be met with. In the order are persons of the highest families and wealth. The sisters in Ghent number about one hundred, whilst their entire number in Belgium is about 1,300. New buildings at Eecloo (rail in forty minutes), now replace the old house, or Grand Béguinage, a moated pile, which was situated in the Rue des Bruges. There is a Petit Béguinage in Rue des Violettes, with 300 girls of a poorer class. The first chapel was built in 1242. The sisters live in separate houses, and each door has inscribed on it the name of some saint, chosen as its protectress. Visitors to Ghent should see their church at the hour of vespers, which are sung at half-past seven each evening. The scene is most impressive. The sisters are all dressed in black robes with white veils; the novices are distinguished by a different dress, whilst those who have but lately taken the veil are distinguished by a chaplet, which they wear around their heads. The chapel, barely illuminated by a few lamps, and the solemn singing, together with the large assemblage of sisters, so picturesquely dressed, impart to the scene an aspect of solemn grandeur and mystic beauty. The chapel itself is interesting in the extreme. Lace (kanten) making forms one of the chief occupations of the Béguines, and very good and sometimes beautiful work is done by them. This may be bought at their establishments, and will be found much cheaper than that obtained at the shops in the town. The Hôtel de Ville is situated partly in the Rue Haute Porte, and partly in Le Marché-au-Beurre. The portion standing in the former street, built in the Gothic style of architecture, presents a magnificent appearance, and is adorned with It has two exquisitely wrought ornaments. façades, built at intervals between 1482 and 1620, after several plans, by as many architects. The turret or tribune at the corner was built in 15271560 by Eustace Polleyt, and is in the richest flamboyant Gothic style. The other façade, built between 1600 and 1620, has columns of three different orders of architecture, one surmounting the other. In the Salle du Trône, so celebrated in the annals of Ghent, was signed the treaty known as the "Pacification of Ghent," drawn up, in 1576, by the congress of confederates, who assembled to adopt measures calculated to drive The bust of the Spaniards out of Belgium. Philip van Artevelde, the famous Captain-General (killed 1382 at the battle of Rosebecq, between the to hard labour. The remainder is divided into revolted citizens and the army of Louis II.), should be seen. Palace of Justice.-This striking building by Rólands, is situated in the Rue du Théâtre. The ground floor is used as the Exchange, and the upper chamber as Courts of Justice. Palais de l'Université.-Founded by William I., King of Holland, in 1826. It is a beautiful and modern edifice, having a splendid Corinthian portico, modelled from the Pantheon, at Rome, and is built on the site of the Jesuits' College. The library, consisting of 100,000 vols. and 700 MSS., amongst them a Mayence Bible, 1472, and a folio Latin Bible, 1466, and a number of other ancient volumes, has been transferred to the Baudeloo Convent. The Jardin Botanique, instituted in 1797, belongs to the University, and is one of the finest in Belgium. It contains a collection of 8,000 plants, of 1,000 different species. The Museum of Natural History is not less remarkable for its extent than for the richness of its collection. There are also coins, medals, and antiquities. An Engineering School, and a School of Arts and Manufactures are also maintained in connection with the University. Maison des Bateliers, on the Quai aux Herbes, is an old and picturesque edifice, built in 1513. The Halle aux Draps will also repay notice. Maison de Force, a house of correction, situated rather outside of the city, on the Coupure canal, which is bordered by a double row of large trees. It was constructed in 1773, in the reign of Maria Theresa, and forms a perfect octagon, in the centre of which is a spacious court, communicating with the different quadrangles of the establishment. Each quadrangle or ward has a yard, and in the centre of that belonging to the female ward is a large basin of water, in which the female prisoners wash the linen of the whole establishment. Each prisoner sleeps alone in a small but well-aired room, and is employed during the day in working at whatever trade or business he or she is most competent to do. Of the produce of this labour, five-tenths are retained by government when the prisoners are merely detained correctionally; six-tenths when they have been sentenced two portions; half is given to the prisoners weekly for pocket money, and the other given to them at the expiration of the term of their imprisonment, to assist in their re-establishment in the world. Religious service and instruction are provided and attended to in an admirable manner; and if prisoners are found ignorant of the first elements of knowledge, as reading, writing, and arithmetic, they receive instruction in the various branches. Insubordination or refractory conduct is punished by solitary confinement. The shop for refreshments sold to the prisoners is kept under strict regulations by the officers of the establishment, and the profits are employed as rewards for the most industrious and well-behaved prisoners. A new wing, recently erected, contains cells adapted to the solitary system. Admission can only be obtained by permission from the Minister of Justice, Brussels. The Kouter, or Place d'Armes, is a large square planted with trees. It is a beautiful promenade, and has a military band usually playing there on summer evenings. The Marché du Vendredi (Vrydag-Markt), a vast square, so called from the day on which the fair is held. It is remarkable as having been the spot where the trades' unions of the middle ages planted their standards and rallied to arms. On it the ceremonial of inaugurating the Counts of Flanders was celebrated with a gorgeous and luxurious grandeur, unequalled at the present day. This spot is also identified with one of the most painful and tragic reminiscences connected with the history of Ghent. It is celebrated as being the scene of an internecine conflict, in which fifteen hundred citizens were slain by fellow-citizens. The weavers and fullers constituted the two factions, and the former were led on and headed by Jacques Van Artevelde, called the Brewer of Ghent, in the corporation of which body he enrolled himself, though descended from one of the first families in Flanders. The day, to mark the sanguinary and disgraceful work, was called Evil Monday in the annals of the town. On that spot, and on that day forty years after, Philip, the son of that Jacques, was saluted Protector of Ghent, and received the oath of fidelity from his townsmen on the occasion of his being called upon to lead them against Louis de Mâle. In the Marché au Vendredi also were lighted the fires of the Inquisition, under the Duke of Alva. The great cannon, situated in a street called the "Mannekens Aert," close to the Marché, is called Die dulle Griete, alias Mad Margery, and is one of the most enormous ever made, measuring 19 feet in length and 10 feet in circumference. It is made of hammered iron, and bears the Burgundian Cross and the arms of Philippe le Bon (1419-1467). In the Place St. Pharailde, near the Marché aux Poissons, is an old turreted gateway, called the Oudeburg, or the counts' fort or castle, a remnant of the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders, and dates from 1180. It deserves a visit, as one of the oldest buildings in Belgium. In the year 1338, Edward III. and his family resided here. During his residence his queen gave birth to her son, John of Gaunt (Ghent). An intimate and friendly alliance existed for years between the English and people of Ghent. It may not be uninteresting to mention the fate of Jacques Van Artevelde, the brewer, whom Edward III. of England used to style "his dear gossip." He was a faithful friend and ally to this king, and lost his life, it may be said, in his service. He invited Edward III. over to Sluis, in 1344, with a view of taking council for the promotion of the promise made to the king by Jacques, to the effect that he would make him "Lord and heritor of Flanders," a thing altogether opposed to the wishes of the Gantoises. Public indignation was excited against him, and was further increased by a rumour to the effect that he had, during his administration of the government of Flanders, stealthily sent large sums of money out of the exchequer to England, which so exasperated the people as to cause them to enter into a revolt against him, assault his house, which was attacked by a mob of 400 persons, and broken into, when a citizen, named Gerard Denys, slew him without mercy. His Statue was set up in the Square, 1863, on the site of one of Charles V., which stood here till 1796. A statue of Van Eyck (1878) stands in the Kauter Square, where he lived and died. Portes de la Ville, or City Gates.-There are seven principal Gates, the most remarkable of which are those of Brussels, St. Lievin, St. Peter, and Bruges, all of which present curious relics of the ancient gates erected in the 14th century. The greater number of these gates have been re-constructed. Casino. Situated near the canal (cut in 1750, to unite the Lys and Bruges canal together), and built for the Botanical Society and the Musical Society of St. Cécile. Here are held the well known half-yearly shows of the Maatschappij van Kruid-Kunde (Horticultural Society). The city and neighbourhood have for nearly a century been engaged in the cultivation and export of flowers, which has been carried to a high pitch of perfection, and visitors should not omit to see some of the beautiful gardens here. Admission is freely granted to strangers. The Academy of Arts, Rue Ste. Marguerite, contains a Museum of Paintings, which is well worth inspection, though the pictures, all of the Flemish school, do not number any very special examples. Sunday morning free; other days, 50 cents. Hospitals.-Ghent possesses 21 hospitals, civil and military. The principal of these is the Byloque, founded in 1225, and capable of containing 600 sick. In the church attached to it, Jacques Van Artevelde was buried. The Military hospital is situated near the church of St. Martin. Theatre.-A magnificent theatre has been lately erected at the corner of the Place d'Armes. The salon, concert hall, and ball-rooms are beautiful in their construction and decoration. It was erected at a cost of £100,000. lington's advice before Waterloo, "that he might be Louis XVIII. waited here by the Duke of Wel ready to go to England or Paris;" and here Rothschild, by watching at the king's door, got news of the victory, posted to London, and made a great sum. The commerce and manufactures of Ghent are very extensive and various; the most important of the latter consist of cotton weaving, bleaching, and printing, cotton spinning, lace making, cloth working, gin distilling, sugar refining, soap making, brewing, goldsmiths' work, paper making, and numerous other branches of industry, particularly the making of masks, of which large quantities are exported all over the world. There is also a superb iron foundry and engine manufactory, called the Phoenix, founded 1821 by M. Huytens Kerremans, in Ghent. Every day, in the morning, at noon, and in the evening, a bell rings, to announce to the workmen, who amount in number to 1,500 and upwards, the hour of going to work. While this bell is ringing, none of the bridges are allowed to be turned, lest they should intercept the passage of the industrious artizans. The environs of Ghent are pleasant and fertile, abounding particularly in corn, flax, madder, and tobacco. Outside the Porte de Courtrai are numerous country houses, and the road is bordered with pleasure gardens. In the neighbourhood of the gate of St. Lievin is found a transparent stone, resembling the flint of Fleuris. The fairs held at Ghent commence on the 16th March, and continue for eighteen days; 10th July, seventeen days; 9th August, one day; and 3rd October, two days. A communication between the sea and Ghent exists by means of a canal, which enters the Schelde at Terneuse. This ensures all the advantages of a seaport to the city. Vessels drawing eighteen feet of water can enter the basin. About fourteen miles north, at Sas van Gent, are sluices, by means of which the entire country can be laid under water. GHENT TO ANTWERP, see Route 10. Six other lines run to Selzaete, Hecloo, Bruges, and Ostend; Thourout, Oudenarde, Malines, &c. Ghent to Mechlin and Brussels. Leaving Ghent, the railway after crossing the Scheld is carried along the south side of it. The scenery is uninteresting, and such as usually characterises the environs of a great and populous city, until we arrive at Melle (Station), on the Escaut or Scheld. Population, 1,900. The routes from Brussels to Ghent, and from Ghent to Mons by Grammont here join. From this station to Wetteren the line describes an immense curve, following the bend of the Escaut, on whose surface can be seen the boats as they sail up and down the river. Wetteren (Station). A charming village, or rather town, the capital of a canton, situated to the right of the railway, on the right bank of the Escaut. Population, about 9,000. At Schellebelle the direct line to Brussels (see page 23) diverges to the right, forming a communication with Alost (Station)-Hotels: De Flandre; Duc de Brabant; Mille Colonnes. On the riverDendre, the chief town of the district of East Flanders, said to owe its origin to a fortress built by the Goths in 411. It was formerly the capital of what was called Imperial Flanders, and was reduced to ashes by a conflagration in 1360; in 1667 the celebrated Marshal Turenne took and dismantled it. The old Town Hall, a fine Gothic edifice, built in 1210, was unfortunately burnt in 1879. The collegiate Church of St. Martin was built by the same architect as the cathedral of Amiens, and contains a fine picture by Rubens, representing the "Plague of Alost." The population is about 21,630, chiefly engaged in linen, soap, and thread-lace manufactures. From here a branch goes off to Antwerp, viá Opwyck (Station), on the Assche and Termonde line; Londerzeel (Station), on the line from Ghent to Malines; Boom (Station), and Hoboken (Station). Leaving Wetteren, the road crosses a viaduct, and arrives at Wichelen, after passing the Molenbeek, a stream flowing into the Escaut. Wichelen (Station). A small commune to the right of the railway, with a population of 4,000 inhabitants. This station is the point-d'arrét for each train. On quitting this place, the railway proceeds through a rather uninteresting piece of country, passing the stations of Schoonaerde and Audeghem and arrives at Termonde (Station), or Dendermonde. An ancient town, said to be earlier than the time of Charlemagne. It is situated at the mouth of the river Dendre, at its confluence with the Scheldt. The inhabitants have a taste for the fine arts, and the traveller may readily obtain access to several private collections, among which we may name those of M. Schellekin and Madame Terlinden. David Teniers married in this town, |