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MOSSEL BAY AS A HARBOUR OF REFUGE.

The great importance in these days of increasing maritime adventure, so that every port on the line of coast comprehending any British colony should be known to mariners, has induced me to recommend to the notice of navigators a harbour situated about thirty-six leagues to the eastward of Cape L'Agulhas, which offers not only the advantage of perfect security during the winter solstice (months of May, June, July, and August), but, moreover, obviates the necessity to vessels which can fetch to the harbour from the offing of further bearing up for some two hundred miles.

In the paucity of shelter on this iron-bound coast the maritime public may be congratulated on the existence and eligibility of another port still further to the eastward,-namely, Algoa Bay; yet, if the safety of Mossel Bay during the Cape winter can be proved, it may also claim a further advantage, namely, that one short day's run before the transient easterly breezes, which at times occur, even in the winter months, will place a vessel well to the westward of L'Agulhas.

A remarkable case of this was that of the Bally, from Canton to Quebec, in August, 1850. The captain of this vessel, leaving Mossel Bay with a steady rise of the barometer, got well to the westward of the Bank (L'Agulhas), in twenty hours, when, meeting a fresh

* From Jacob Mossel, Governor-General of Netherlands India, 1757. NO. 11.-VOL. XXX.

4 D

gale at S.W., he was enabled to stand away to the north-westward with a flowing sheet.

The proper inference to be drawn from this fact is inevitable: that Mossel Bay is literally a bay,-it being the deepest indentation found in any part of the South African coast between Simons Bay and Delagoa Bay. Neither Algoa Bay nor Plettenberg Bay must be excepted in this particularity of formation; and the Knysna and Port Natal, though excellent harbours within their bars, afford no shelter without.

Before attempting a particular description of Mossel Bay as a barbour of refuge, the following is a brief account of the present state and prospects of the locality :

Previous to the year 1841 there existed on the present site of the village only four thatched stone buildings. One of these was long used by the old Dutch Colonial Government as a grain store, which grain was received from the farmers at a fixed price. The remaining produce of the district, consisting of hides and butter, was conveyed by wagons to Cape Town, the wagons returning with such few necessaries (groceries and clothing) as the farmers required. Although the custom of receiving grain was discontinued on the advent of the English Government, the old practice of transmission by wagon of produce to the distant metropolis prevailed to, comparatively, a recent date.

The introduction of wool-bearing sheep, however, occasioned a change in this system-if such it may be styled,-which was the mere result of necessity.

In 1843-4 mercantile firms began to establish themselves in the bay; and from that period a rapid growth of mercantile competition, and, consequent thereon, convenience to the rural public has taken place, and at present scarcely one wagon in a year proceeds on the old route.

Until the year 1858 the resources of trade and produce were restricted by the hitherto insuperable barrier of the Zwaartberg range of mountains, forbidding all communication with the vast interior of the colony; and the area of production being thus confined solely to the thinly populated district of George and a small portion of Riversdale, it was not difficult to foresee that a certain ultimatum, dependent on the then amount of population, would shortly be reached.

The opening of the Meiring Poort (or Road) that year, through a gorge of the before-mentioned mountain range, into the pastoral division of Beaufort and the interminable interior, has for ever dissipated these calculations; and the subsequent rise in the value of landed property, both within and beyond the coast districts, has altogether baffled computation.

The new village of Aliwal is situated on the North side of the Cape St. Blaize, on a gradually rising ground, bounded 250 yards

Error.-Not till 1826.

from the heads of the bay by a rather abrupt range of rocky cliffs, and to the westward by hills of gravel, rock, and sand. It is at present composed of about 130 houses, the greater number substantially built, and many of them roofed either with slate or zinc; several very handsome stores of two stories, and under slated roofs, have recently been constructed, and various other buildings, together with a district gaol, are in course of erection.

An Episcopal chapel and a Dutch church give respectability and character to this place. Several eminent mercantile houses are established; many retail stores, three hotels, an apothecary's dispensary, and various provision shops necessary to the convenience of society. A "public reading-room" has also recently been opened, with the necessary accompaniment of colonial newspapers and English periodicals, together with a small but very select library, lately imported.

The population of the village consists at present of somewhat above 600 souls. The civil establishment is composed of a resident magistrate (who is civil commissioner to the district), a collector of customs, a district surgeon, and a small police force. An Episcopal clergyman and a minister of the Dutch Reformed church reside in the village. Master-mariners and ship-owners are requested to observe the following facts, namely:

1. That the post-cart departs three times a week from the village to the extremity of the colony, arriving in Cape Town in thirty-six hours, thus affording communication, by the monthly mail steamer, with England.

2. That an accredited agent for Lloyd's is established in the village.

No port charges exist. A reservoir of excellent water is being conducted by pipes to the beach for the use of shipping.

Port and Anchorage.

This subject may be introduced by observing that the continuous westerly gales met with in a higher latitude than that of Cape L'Agulhas often remit in violence near the land several days previous to their termination outside. In other words, a vessel experiencing tedious westerly gales forty miles off the land may frequently find finer weather by standing in upon the coast, particularly to the eastward of the cape; she has then, optionally, a short bear up to a contiguous port. An unintermitting westerly (violent) gale at Mossel Bay of a week's continuance is of late unknown.

Mossel Bay is formed by a bend of the coast, terminating in a bluff and (below that) a low point called Cape St. Blaize: lat. 34° 10' S., long. 22° 18' E. To justify the term bay (inlet of the land) to this locality, it may be remarked that a line being drawn true North from the point to the opposite shore (distant five miles), will give a radius depth of two miles and a quarter to the arc (of the bay). Thus, supposing a vessel to put to sea with the wind at S.E. (per compass), and making even no better than a seven point course good, she still leaves the anchorage with Robben Island (round which is

also plenty of water) two good miles on her beam. The importance of this advantage will be duly acknowledged.

Directions.

The point of Cape St. Blaize may be rounded pretty closely, remembering that a rock called the Blinder, or Windvogel, lies about one-third of a mile off the East end, on which the sea breaks heavily

at low water.

The windmill on the bluff is not visible coming along shore from the westward, owing to intervening land, but will be seen from the southward, and the bay thereby identified. The town of Aliwal will be seen half a mile inside the point on opening the bay.

The proper anchorage in the bay from April to September is in from four and a half to five fathoms water, the mass of the village bearing South; or, more determinately, with Bland's jetty-head bearing S. W., per compass, when the extremity (visible) of the point will bear S.E.b.S. Ships' boats may land either at the jetty-head (stairs) or on the beach, there being no surf!

Anchorage ground, clay, with a thin super-stratum of sand. High water at full and change at 3h., with a rise of seven feet.

The harbour at this season is safe from all winds to the westward of South, as south-easterly winds are then unfrequent, moderate, and of but transient duration. The heaviest gales during the year are from the W.N.W. One only has occurred in the bay during this year (1859), namely, from midnight of the 15th of May till the evening of the 19th, with subsequent alternate stiff breezes from S.W. and calms to the end of the month; the water of the bay perfectly smooth throughout the month.

Winter gales commonly commence from the N.N.W., with heavy gusts, unsteady both in direction and force; then veering to W.N.W. or West. They blow very hard in continuous gales, with barometer low, 29.6 in.; finally, shifting somewhat suddenly to S.W., they blow themselves out with steady breezes and occasional showers. A somewhat heavy swell at this latter period at times sets round the bay, but nothing to cause apprehension for the safety of vessels, or even interruption to the landing with light boats.

From the months of September to April, vessels ought not to anchor under five a half fathoms. Strong breezes from S.E. to E.S.E. at this season (summer) occasionally prevail, bringing, after a few hours' continuance, into the bay a heavy break of sea; when a stout coir spring, stretched along inboard and nippered (lashed) to the chain before the bitts or windlass, will ensure safety, especially with good and long ground tackle and judicious reduction of tophamper. These gales seldom continue thirty hours. A rise of the barometer generally occurs, and vessels may commonly beat out at the commencement (usually gradual) of the breeze if desirable, and clear the point with one good board. Moderate S.W. winds, however, even in this season of the year, are very common.

The distance of the N.W. beach (head of the bay) from the an

chorage, affording good scope for beating out to sea, as has been before remarked, distinguishes Mossel Bay very favourably.

Subjoined is an account of the number of vessels which have anchored in the bay, and casualties occurring, since the establishment of an agent for Lloyd's in 1851. Also a monthly abstract of winds and weather during the year 1859, noted by the writer.

Addenda.

Since the foregoing was written the exports of wool and hides have largely increased. Several thousand feet of iron piping for the supply of water have been laid through the streets, a branch of which is being carried to a new jetty for the use of shipping. This jetty is now in course of erection by Mr. Pilkington, C.E., on a contract of £4,500.

The Board of Harbour Commissioners for the improvement of the port have lately requested the Colonial Government to have a fresh survey of the port, with a view to the erection of a lighthouse on the bluff, which may be defrayed by the wharfage dues, Mr. Andrews, C.E., having lately estimated the cost at no more than £700.

H. W. LAWS, Harbour-Master.

Number of Vessels Anchored in Mossel Bay since November 1st, 1851. 1851, November and December, vessels anchored 1852, Throughout the year,

1853,

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(One loss, namely, Feb. 15th, schooner Mary parted
and wrecked in a strong S.E. breeze. Oct., cutter
Anna Catharina drove ashore, also in a S.E.
breeze afterwards repaired, got off, and sailed
for Cape Town.)

1854, Throughout the year, vessels anchored

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Certificates from Shipmasters using the Port.

Having been requested by the Harbour Board to state my opinion on Mossel Bay as a port of refuge for vessels hound round Cape Agulbas during the prevalence of westerly gales,-it is certainly much more easy of access than any anchorage to the eastward of Cape Agulhas, and it is very seldom but what you can have casy communication with the shore, and get water or stores if required. Twice, on my passage from East London to Table Bay, I have sought shelter in the bay from strong westerly gales, and always been able to fetch easily into the bay, and then ride securely with a single anchor and a long scope of cable, as it is excellent holding ground. I have rode out three strong S.E. gales in the bay, and had no occasion to let go a second anchor, as I found, by veering to eighty fathoms, the vessel rode quite easy, and with little strain on the cable; and it is my opinion that during the con

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