Page images
PDF
EPUB

having two summits joined in the form of a saddle, and raised two hundred feet above the surface of the water. The slope of it is barren, but the view of the lake and of the richly cultivated valleys is admirable, particularly after sun-set, when thousands of aquatic birds, herons, flamingoes, and wild ducks, cross the lake to roost in the islands; and the broad zone of mountains that fringe the horizon, is illuminated with flames. The inhabitants set fire to the dry herbage, in order to produce finer and fresher grass; and those vast conflagrations extend sometimes over a large tract of country, and appear like streams of lava, overflowing the ridges of the mountains. When reposing on the banks of Tacarigua, in one of those beautiful evenings peculiar to the tropics, to enjoy the soft freshness of the air, it is delightful to contemplate in the waves that beat against the shore, the reflection of the fires that redden the horizon. In going up the small river Cura, that pours its tributary stream into the lake, the mountains of Mariara are seen advancing into the plain, in form of a vast amphitheatre, composed of perpendicular rocks, crowned by peaks with rugged summits. The central point of the amphitheatre bears the strange name of the Devil's Wall. These rocks in ruins command the plain, and they are composed of a coarse grained granite, nearly porphyritic, the yellowish white crystal of which are more than an inch and a half long. The mica, which is rare in them, is of a fine silvery hue. Nothing can be more grand and solemn than the aspect of this group of

mountains, half clothed with vegetation. At last we departed from the beautiful Hacienda de Cura, for Guacara and Nueva Valencia. To avoid the excessive heat of the days, we determined to travel by night. The road is lined with mimosas, the trunks of which rise to the height of sixty feet; their branches, nearly horizontal, meet at more than one hundred and fifty feet distance, so that they form a beautiful and luxuriant vault of verdure. The night in which we recommenced our march was gloomy." The Devil's Wall, and its denticulated rocks, appeared from time to time, in the distance, illumined by the burning of the savannas, or wrapt in ruddy smoke. At the spot where the underwood was thickest, our horses were frightened by the yell of an animal that seemed to be following us closely; this was a large tiger, who had roamed for three years among those mountains. He had escaped the pursuit of the boldest hunters, after having carried off horses and mules from the midst of inclosures. Being in no want of food, he had not yet attacked men. The negro who was our guide, uttered wild cries to frighten him, but without effect. The jaguar skirting the road, followed us, appearing at intervals between the bushes.

Humboldt.

EXTRAORDINARY MANNER OF CATCHING ELEC

TRICAL EELS.

IMPATIENT of waiting, and having obtained very imperfect results from an electrical eel,

which had been brought to us alive, but much enfeebled, we determined to make our experiments on the brink of the water, in which those wonderful animals are found. For this end we set off at a very early hour, for the village of Piastro de Abaxo; thence we were conducted to a stream, which in time of drought forms a basin of muddy water, surrounded by fine trees bearing fragrant flowers. To catch the gymnoti, or electrical eels, with nets, is very difficult, on account of the extreme agility of the fish, and their burying themselves in the mud. We did not choose to employ the barbasco, that is a mixture of various roots, which when thrown into the pool intoxicate or benumb them. These means would have enfeebled the gymnoti; the Indians, therefore, told us that they would fish with horses. We could form no idea of such an extraordinary mode of fishing, but we soon saw our guides return from the savanna, which they had been scouring for wild horses and mules. They brought with them about thirty, whom they forced to enter the water. The noise made by the dashing of the horses' hoofs, made the fish sally forth from their muddy retreat, to combat the intruders. These yellowish eels resembling large aquatic serpents, rose to the surface, and crowded under the bellies of the horses and mules. The Indians, provided with harpoons and long slender reeds, surrounded the pool, and some climbed upon branches of the trees, which extend horizontally over the stream. By their loud cries, and the action of their long reeds, they prevented the horses from running away,

A

and reaching the bank. The eels, enraged by this invasion, defended themselves by repeated discharges of their electric batteries. During a long time they appeared to be victorious in the contest. Several horses sunk beneath the violence of the invisible strokes they received from all quarters, and stunned by their force and frequency, disappeared under the water. Others, panting, with manes erect, and haggard eyes, expressive of anguish and terror, raised themselves, and endeavoured to escape from the storm. small number, eluding the vigilance of our fishermen, regained the shore, and stretched themselves upon the sand, with limbs benumbed by the electric shocks of the gymnoti. In less than five minutes two horses were drowned. The eels, being five feet long, pressed themselves against the bellies of the horses, making discharges along the whole extent of their electric organs; thus attacking at once the heart, the intestines, and the abdominal nerves. The effect upon the horses was, therefore, dreadful: they were probably only stunned by the strokes, but drowned by the impossibility of rising again, amid the prolonged struggle of the other horses and the eels. We began to fear that this strange fishing would end in the successive destruction of all the animals engaged. By degrees, however, the heat of this unequal combat diminished, and the wearied gymnoti dispersed. They require a long rest and abundant nourishment to recover their loss of galvanic power. The mules and horses began to lose their excessive terror. The electric eels retreated to the edge of the marsh.

where by means of small harpoons fastened to long cords, several of them were taken, only slightly wounded.

Humboldt.

SCENERY AND ANIMALS OF THE RIVER APURE.

INTENDING to follow the course of the river Apure to its junction with the Oroonoko, we chose a very large canoe, in the stern of which was constructed a cabin covered with the large leaves of the corypha plant, sufficiently spacious to contain a table and benches. This was laden with provisions for a month, and was navigated by a pilot and four rowers. Having passed the Diamante, a small sugar plantation, we entered a country inhabited only by tigers, crocodiles, chiguires, the thick nosed tapir, and immense flocks of various birds, appearing like dark clouds in the sky. By degrees the river widens. One bank is generally barren and sandy; the other more elevated and adorned with lofty trees. Sometimes the channel is bordered by forests on each side, and forms a straight canal of considerable breadth. Low bushes forming a hedge, four feet high, as regular as if trimmed by the hands of man, present themselves in front. Behind this hedge, at some distance, rises a copse of cedars, and other tropical trees, with a few scattered palms. The large quadrupeds of these regions, the tigers, tapers, and pecaries, make

« PreviousContinue »