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WALES-RAIL-WAYS AND WAGGONS.

We came in sight of the sea several times today. It blew fresh on shore, but there was not much surf, from being, I suppose, a confined sea, Single trees, oaks particularly, are in general very much bent, almost horizontally, from the sea; that is to say, the stem is, while the bows and leaves turn towards it. Large woods, covering steep ascents facing the sea, we observed growing strait and thriving; the trees protect each other, or the height behind obliges the sea air to pass over their heads. We crossed several iron rail-ways, leading from founderies and coal-mines in the country to the sea. Four low cast-iron wheels run in an iron groove lying along the road. It is now, however, the general custom to place the groove on the circumference of the wheel, running upon the rail, which is a mere edge of iron, upon which no stone or other impediment can lodge. Five small waggons, and sometimes six, fastened together, each carrying two tons of coal, are drawn by three horses, that is, four tons to each horse, besides the weight of the waggon,-about five or six times as much as they could draw on a common road; on an ascent the waggons are separated.

The rocks of Tenby are worn by the sea into the most fantastic shapes, and pierced through and through, in several places, like gateways; and at low water carriages drive close to the sea upon a firm beach. The town is built along the summit of the cliff, and in the finest situation imaginable, but the houses turn their backs and blind sides to this glorious prospect, having windows only to look at each other, across a narrow dirty street. The use these Hottentots make of the beetling brow of the cliff, the very place for poetical raptures and philosophical contemplation, is too vile to be nam

CARDIGAN-ABERYSTWITH.

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ed. The bathers lodge in a lower situation, less beautiful, but cleaner.

July 19.-Cardigan. We left Tenby yesterday, with horses so tired, that all we could obtain from them was to draw the carriage empty, and so slowly, that we arrived at Pembroke before them,a walk of ten miles. This morning we have crossed Milford Haven, a narrow and deep bay or arm of the sea, forming an excellent harbour, sheltered on all sides, but not used at all. Such a one on the coast of France, where they are so scarce, would not be thus neglected. The surrounding country is solitary, peaceful, and agreeable. Our first stage was Haverford West, 11 miles; then 30 miles on one stretch of hilly country, for which we were obliged to take four horses.

July 20.-Aberystwith. Another stage of 40 miles with four horses, in ten hours. There is so little travelling in this remote part of the island, that the post-horses are commonly employed in husbandry. The country is rough and hilly, but presents the same appearance of prosperity and good cultivation, though less fertile; granite and slate having succeeded to limestone. The country people give us a friendly nod as we drive along. The women certainly are uncommonly good-looking. Welsh for two shillings is dua sols, as we hear it pronounced, which sounds very like French. The sides of the road are made very gay, by the finest stalks of the purple foxglove growing anong very luxuriant fern, and appearing as if it was the same plant. A beautiful low purple heath, and thyme, also with purple flowers, cover the tops of the hills. We have been nearly all day in view of the sea, on our left hand, and fancied we could see Ireland: the clouds were exactly

214

DOLGELLY-CADER IDRIS.

reflected by the glassy surface of the water, curiously streaked with the brightest green and dark purple.

July 22.-Dolgelly, (pronounced Dolgethly) Merionethshire. The ride from Aberystwith, 35 miles, is certainly very beautiful, the latter part especially, from several rich valleys surrounded by moderate hills, which our " Cambrian Guide" calls, "tremendous mountains, shook into every possible form of horror." Cader Idris deserves alone the name of mountain, and formed a conspicuous object for a great part of yesterday. We stopped at its base to see a very pretty waterfall, and conti. nued our route to this place through a narrow path between two steep acclivities of crumbling rocks, having the beauty of desolation. This morning, having provided four ponies and a guide, for these sort of conveniences are found ready organized here, wherever wanted, we went back a few miles in order to ascend Cader Idris, which we effected in three hours hard tug, partly on horseback, and partly on foot, by a zigzag path, with all the usual dangers, and hair-breadth escapes, and found ourselves at last seated on a crumbling pinnacle of slate rock, with large detached pieces of quartz here and there. The schistus appeared porphyritic, and, as I should suppose, what the Germans call gros wache. The youngest of the company added the initials of our names to those of many other wise tourists who have preceded us,-a lofty record of travelling fame. I was not so well employed, for I attempted a sort of circular drawing or panorama of the main objects we saw, without success. It was a sort of troubled sea of mountains, with many a beautiful valley among them, each with its meandering stream, and all like a geographical map. The course of the Maw from