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glorious company of graduates in the world's celebrities. The antiquity and renown of the rooms occupied by such persons as Addison or Johnson - still the same identical rooms imagine. Then pictures... by such men as Reynolds and Lawrence and statuary in abundance - fine grounds - fine old and large libraries-why, I must say that I thought how I should like to lead Jimmy through these old halls a few years hence and tell him that very probably all the education he could get in an ordinary American college would hardly do more than to fit him to enter here.

London he found inexhaustible, and though he returned to it after a visit to the Continent, he left it at the end only partly explored. His first glimpse was taken in June and led, of course, to the Thames and its gardens:

We rode up the Thames [he writes on June 9th], passing many beautiful residences, by Twickenham, where we saw the house in which Pope once lived, and his grotto - his grounds in the main or rather his garden was walled in too high to be seen. From his grotto an underground passage leads to his garden passing under the highway which otherwise separates it from his house. We then returned on the Thames, of course repassing the place where Charles is said to have escaped from, where the sons of Louis Philippe now live, and other notable residences back to the Star and Garter where we had an elegant Lunch. Then we rode to Richmond, the place first built by Cardinal Wolsey and surrendered to "his jealous King," Henry the Eighth, I believe. The castle and park here are great in magnificence. The trees, of the growth of ages, in splendid avenues, five deep, the old rooms, specimens of the furniture, beds, chairs, etc., used by Kings and

of old time, all have a deep interest, and then the old pictures - not by any means all very good, but all having a romantic or solid interest and in such lavish profusion. Why, a steady walk hardly stopping, would require of you an hour's time to pass through the rooms and halls and corridors, stairways, and closets containing this vast gathering of the works of artists from the days of the Henrys down to George the Fourth. I mean to go again am not content with one look.

Then we drove to Kensington Gardens and to Kew. The last,

with their splendid glass conservatories, lawns, trees, beds of flowers, is altogether the finest place I have seen. The massive beds of Rhododendrons, skirted on one side with borders and beds of rare flowers and on another with avenues of trees, are wonderful in extent and beauty. Certainly they surpass my own at Strafford, and yet you remember one old lady came all the way from North Randolph to see mine! I could write some pages about this day's sight-seeing, but I will spare you.

His love of horses made the show in Hyde Park especially interesting to him and he set down his observations in much detail:

Mr. Blaine and I went to Hyde Park, the great resort from 2 to 8 P.M. There were a goodly number of equestrians — the ladies riding with great elegance and boldness while the gentlemen didn't, or I failed to see the elegance of the perpetual rising and falling in the stirrups. But the turn-outs - two-horse turn-outs -were of great beauty and very large numbers. Among them we saw at one time very closely the Prince of Wales, who evidently knew Mr. Blaine and myself by our round soft hats, which we do not think of parting with until we reach Paris, to be Americans, as we saw him call attention to our singularity in this respect, for here no one wears such shocking bad hats. The horses here were almost uniformly good, some very fine, but I do not think the crowd averaged so many really fine roadsters as we see on 5th Avenue or at the Central Park. Perhaps they were larger and stouter. Mere speed and slender symmetry do not appear to be in favor, and all their carriages appear to be much heavier and stouter than American. None but private carriages are admitted to the park and a driver (or coachman) and footman must attend always. Even the one-horse equipages, and we saw a good many of those, frequently had a footman as well as a driver. The livery was mainly drab breeches, blue coat and large buttons, band and cockade on the hat, and white stockings or boots with buff tops. This was variously decorated. The coachman wore a white or gray horse-hair wig and the footman by his side had his hair powdered white. So they always looked old and reverend, no matter how young they might be.

The heat of the summer hastened the travelers' departure,

for they hoped to visit Rome before August. The next day saw them away:

At dawn we took a long, sharp steamer, bidding adieu to the famous white cliffs of Dover- the bold shore of England - for La belle France and arrived at Calais, across the Channel, in a little more than two hours the water being calm and smooth as a mill-pond. Calais is an old walled town, held, you know, by England for many years, and when finally lost, I think it was Queen Mary who said "Calais" would be found written upon her heart. The bare-legged, dirty fish-women on the pier was the first foreignish sight which struck us, with sounds, not one of which was intelligible, uttered by all the voices around — men, women, and boys. One feels rather helpless when thus thrown upon what must after all be little better than pantomime to make himself understood.

From Calais, over a fine and level country, thoroughly and beautifully cultivated, we started at 14 o'clk. P.M. for Brussels (Bruxelles), the capital of Belgium. Here as in England trees are almost worshiped or at least cared for tenderly by everybody. There are few or no fences, but the lines appear to be marked by rows of trees and so is every road, stream, or ditch, and the latter two generally by a row of trees on each side. Here, however, unlike what they are in England, the trees are trimmed up very high and only a small portion is left to top and branches - probably that they may not shade the land crops too much. This makes the country- and especially the long avenues of trees by the roadsides look wondrously beautiful. There is no disfigurement of dilapidated wooden fences or tumbledown walls here any more than in England, but the hawthorn hedges, a capital ornament instead [of walls], are by no means so common here and yet they are not infrequent.

The travelers made an early pilgrimage to Waterloo.

Of course our first and chief business at Brussels was to visit the famous battle-field of Waterloo. It is true that we in the United States have recently had more men and guns engaged in hostile array than met here and had many far more bloody encounters as at Gettysburg where either side had more cannon

and much more efficient than all together had here on the 18th of June, 1815. But Waterloo was one of those few single struggles which decides the fate of nations for ages and Wellington himself little knew when he wrote his dispatch the next day how great a work he had done.

It is twelve miles from Brussels to Waterloo and the best route is through the Soigne Woods - about eight miles long and all of the first part beautifully laid out as a park with walks and drives kept immaculately clean and constantly sprinkled to lay any unmannerly item of dust. Then the dense mass of trees nearly all beech, rising to lofty heights, straight and without a limb nearly to the tops and very thick - make it look like a black forest touched by the hand of a magician. The main road, straight as an arrow, was paved clean through and a single row of trees close to each side with then an open space of fifteen feet, perhaps, on each side left to be made into roads for equestrians possibly. The ride in a hot day here such as we had was superb.

Stopping at Saint-Jean we went direct to the point where the battle began, Hougomont, and from there to where was the center of the conflict upon which a lofty mound has been built up, through the labor (of some two hundred Liège women) of years - three, it is said- and upon this stands a monument of a Belgic lion looking toward Paris. Frenchmen do not often visit this unpleasant scene of the fall of their greatest hero, but Englishmen do. I will not dilate upon this battle-field, as it is all down in the books better than I can describe it. It is a satisfaction to have seen it. I do not now think the English had so much the advantage in position as I have heretofore supposed. Their great help was in Grouchy's [Blücher's?] coming up to attack the French in the flank at the right moment.

Their "Parliament" was not in session and we rode to Antwerp... a famous old Dutch city-full of antiquities. Its architecture, its people, pictures-old seat of the Inquisition, statue of Godfrey of Bouillon, the Crusader, ancient cathedral, churches-all, all lend a wonderful interest to an American. The chimes or music of the twenty bells is indescribably sweet. The size of the cathedral is marvelous and so are its wood carvings. At vespers the singing (especially the voices of the boys) was very fine. Saint Paul's Church was more profusely and elaborately decorated than anything I have ever before seen or con

ceived of. Here is the place where some hundreds of years ago the commercial wealth of the world was centered, and even now the city has a look of prosperity and the new part appears to be rapidly growing. One little, old and small statue, the Mannikin, from which flows a fountain, is still retained in a conspicuous place.... But the men, many in wooden shoes (sabots) and bareheaded and bare-legged women at work in the fields apparently as much so as men or more in all such work as hoeing the seeds out of the growing crops and in the coarsest kind of drudgery suggests that here is a field for the laborers in behalf of women's rights. Children of both sexes were also largely employed in the fields. The wages of labor here are small as compared with us, but still there is one marvelous fact-population increases or the same number of families have more children than with us.

This day (Friday, June 13th) we came to Cologne - have visited the Museum to see the paintings and the grand Cathedral what places of pomp these are! This is very old and very superb. The city is old, walled in, strongly fortified, very dirty, and with irregular, narrow streets. To-morrow we go up the Rhine to Mayence on the boat.

There is something of the bulletin and something of the guidebook about travel letters, Morrill's as well as others. The scenes remain the same and there is no great variety of route; it is the reactions of the traveler which chiefly interest us. The Rhine stirred his feelings. On June 14th he wrote from Mayence:

Here I am at 91⁄2 o'clk. P.M. after another day of surpassing interest. We left Cologne this morning at 834 o'clk. A.M. by steamboat up the Rhine, and instead of getting off at Coblentz came on to this place much to our joy, as the scenery was picturesque, grand, and quite deserving its wide reputation in all points of view. The Rhine is larger, longer, and a much swifter stream than the Hudson, with which our own people would compare it, and over that part we traveled to-day, about 150 miles, the banks, rugged, rocky, and precipitous as they are, seem exclusively devoted to vine culture. In fact I know not to what else they could be devoted. Here is the seat of the celebrated Rhine,