pice near the head, and indeed from the whole area, is beautiful and impressive, but not very extensive. To the south, however, peaks may be seen ten or fifteen miles away which overlook the Ohio River and Kentucky hills, while at a slightly less distance to the north, in Pike and Highland counties, are visible several of the highest points in the State. Among these is Fort Hill, eight miles north in Brush creek township on the extreme eastern edge of Highland County. Fort Hill is one of the best preserved and most interesting ancient enclosures in the State. It is estimated that in the limits of Ohio alone are 10,000 ancient mounds and from 1500 to 2000 enclosures. The importance of the study of the subject, the present method of procedure and the general progress are thus dwelt upon in a lecture delivered by Prof. Putnam, Oct. 25, 1887, before the Western Reserve Historical Society. The proper study of history begins with the earliest monuments of man's occupancy of the earth. From study of ancient implements, burialplaces, village sites, roads, enclosures and monuments we are able to get as vivid and correct a conception-all but the names-of pre-historic times as of what is called the historic period. The study of archæology is now assuming new importance from the improved methods of procedure. Formerly it was considered sufficient to arrange archæological ornaments and implements according to size and perfection of workmanship and call it a collection. But now extended and minute comparison Formerly mounds were plored when trenches in two directions and countered, removed and considered essential to mound that it be sliced and every shovelful of every section photoare now also examined first gently uncovered as to harden them, when moved without fracture. cavation of the earthments, ornaments and more important than objects themselves. J. C. Foulk, Photo. Hillsboro. HEAD of the SERPENT MOUND. is the principal thing. said to have been exwere dug through them the contents thus eninspected. Now it is the exploration of a off with the greatest care earth examined and graphed. The skeletons with great care, being and then moistened so usually the bones can be The record of the exworks where impleskeletons are found is the possession of the Although an immense field still remains to be explored, we have gone far enough to show in a general way, that southern Ohio was the meetingplace of two diverse races of people. Colonel Whittlesey's sagacious generalizations concerning the advance of a more civilized race from the south as far as southern Ohio, and their final expulsion by more warlike tribes from the lake region, are fully confirmed by recent investigations. The Indians of Mexico and South America belong to what is called a "short-headed" race, i.e., the width of their skulls being more than threefourths of their length, whereas the northern Indians are all "long headed." Now out of about 1400 skulls found in the vicinity of Madisonville near Cincinnati, more than 1200 clearly belonged to a short-headed race, thus connecting them with southern tribes. Going further back it seems probable that the southern tribes reached America across the Pacific from southern Asia, while the northern tribes came via Alaska from northern Asia. A description of Fort Hill alluded to above will be found under the head of Highland County, and that of the Alligator Mound under that of Licking County. This last named has been classed with the Serpent Mound, it having evidently been erected like that for purposes of worship. TRAVELING NOTES. As Adam was the first to lead in the line of humanity, so it seems proper for Adams to lead, at least alphabetically, in the line of Ohio counties; yet it was about the last visited by me on this tour. A few days before Christmas I was in Kenton. Two or three points on the Ohio were to be visited and then my travels would be over. Would I live to finish? Ah! that was a pressing question. As the end drew near I confess I was a little anxious. Some had predicted I would never get through. "Too old." It is pleasant to be is being petted by the hotel clerk; it is good to see everywhere young life asserting its power, pulling on the heart strings; in its weakness lies its strength. Within it is warm, without, intensely cold: the landscape snow clad. Day is breaking beautifully and the moon and stars in silence look down upon our world in its white shroud. I go out upon the porch and enjoy the calm loveliness of the morning coming on in silence and purity. All of life does not consist in the getting of money; with my eyes I possess the stars, while the cold, pure air seems as a perfect elixir. Still there must always be some encouraged; a higher pleasure often comes from opposition; it enhances victory. Old age! that is a folly. Live young, and you will die young. Learn to laugh Time out of his arithmetic; amuse him with some new game of marbles. Then on some fine summer's day you will be taking a quiet nap, and when you awake maybe find yourself clothed in the pure white garments of eternal youth. Tuesday Morn, Dec. 21.-It is now six o'clock. Am in the office of the St. Nicholas Hotel at Kenton. A dozen commercial travelers sit around, mutually strangers. They sit sleepy in chairs, having just come off a train its locomotive hard by is hissing steam in the cold morning air. A hunting dog lies by the stove and the landlord's fiveyear-old daughter, wearing a checked apron, thing to mar the acme of enjoyment and this is mine, the wish that cannot be gratified, that I for the time being was transformed into some huge giant, so as to offer a greater lung capacity for the penetration of the exhilarating air and a greater body surface for it to envelop and hold me in its invigorating embrace; a desire also for greater penetration of vision, to take in the stars beyond the stars I see. Thus must it ever be-on, on and on, life beyond life, eternity, God! Canst thou by searching find out God?" To find him, to learn him fully, requires all knowledge; with all knowledge must come all power. This can never be, so the mystery of the ages must continue the mystery of the eternities; still on, on, stars beyond stars! 44 It is at night when in solitude, far from home and friends, that as one looks up to the starry dome the soul responds most fully to the sublimity of creation. Then the stars seem as brothers speaking, and say, "We too, O human soul, are filled with the all filling sublimity and the eternal vastness. We each see stars beyond stars; there is no limit. We know not whence we came, but we do know that we are created by the Eternal Incomprehensible Spirit and cast into illimitable space so that each of us rolls on in an appointed orbit. We alike with thee feel His presence and worship HIM who seems to say, 'Do your work, shine on, shine on, let your light illumine the hearts of men that they may be lifted in one eternal song of gladness.' It was years ago when, far from home and friends and alone with night and solitude I endeavored in verse to describe the scene around me, and to express the thoughts that filled me with the all pervading sense of the Divine. Alone with night and the stars! We are thine, O God, belong to Thee. "And striking the chords of my soul, From the farm-house over the lea I hear them singing, sweetly singing, Nearer, my God, nearer to Thee.' When morn broke over the hills Celestial where no storm ever mars The mortal to youth had arisen, Immortal with God and the stars. Wednesday Morn, Dec. 22.-Am in the Sheridan Hotel, Ironton, where that long water ribbon called the Ohio finds for the people of the State its southernmost bend, and seems to say "Here shalt thou come and no farther: beyond thy statutes are of no avail." Bellefontaine.-Ironton is 220 miles from Kenton by my route: I left Kenton after breakfast; stopped two hours at Bellefontaine and one at Columbus. I entered Bellefontaine by the train from the north as I did forty years ago; but how different my entrance. Then it was late in the fall or early winter; I had sketched the grave of Simon Kenton a few miles north, when night overtook me it became intensely dark, I was on the back of old Pomp, and in some anxiety as I could see nothing except a faint glimmer from the road moistened by the rain; a sense of relief came when the straggling lights of Bellefontaine burst in view. In the morning I awoke to find this place with a beautiful name, little more than a collection of log cabins grouped around the Court House square. I was surprised yesterday to find it such a handsome little city. Old Soldiers.-There in his office in one of the fine buildings that had supplanted the crude structures of the old time, I called upon a young man of whose history I had heard in my New Haven home; for he was a youth in Yale when Sumter fell. Then he gave his books a toss into a corner and following the flag made a record. He is now the Lieut.-Governor of the State, Robert Kennedy. He is strongly made; a picture of physical health. He is of medium stature, yet every man who from love of country has breasted the bullets of her foes will stand in my eyes half a foot taller than other men. In this tour I have met many such and no matter how humble their position, I feel everywhere like taking them by the hand; for they seem as men glorified. My memory carries me back to the meeting in my youth with soldiers of the American Revolution, venerable men who had come down from a former generation, and the people everywhere honored them; they too were as men glorified. Women of the Scioto Valley.-It was near evening when I arrived at Columbus; where I walked the streets for an hour finding them thronged with people engaged in their Christmas shopping. On resuming my seat in the cars to continue south, I found them filled with women living down the Scioto Valley, some ten, some fifty miles away, returning to their homes with packages of happiness. Two or three of them were blondes, young ladies of tasteful attire and refined beauty. This famed valley is of wonderful tertility, equal in places probably to the delta of the Ganges where a square mile feeds a thousand. Almost armies perished here in this valley by malaria before it was fairly subdued, and could produce such exquisite fancifully attired creatures as these. Their grandmothers were obliged to dress in homespun, dose with quinine, and listen to the nightly howls of wolves around their cabins; but these graceful femininities can pore over Harper's Bazaar, indulge in ice-cream and go entranced over from the operas. airs By ten o'clock the Christmas shoppers had been distributed through the valley and I was almost alone when my attention was attracted by a young man near me, of twenty-two, so he told me. He said he had been a farm laborer in Michigan, and was going into Virginia to begin life among strangers; going forth into the world to seek his fortune. He evidently knew nothing of that country and it seemed to me as though he was under some Utopian hallucination. His face was of singular beauty. A tall, conical Canadian black cap set it off to advantage; his complexion was dark, his teeth like pearls, features delicate and eyes radiant. Then his smile was so sweet and his expression so innocent and guileless that he quite won my heart in sympathy for his future. There was some mystery there. I could not reconcile his story of being a farm laborer with such refinement. Wed. Dec. 22. 5 P. M.-As I sat this morning in a photograph gallery in Ironton, the photographer exclaimed "There's the Bostonia-that's her whistle." "Where is she bound?" "Down the river." In a twinkling I decided to go in her and now just at candle light I'm on the Ohio, sixty miles below Ironton. In this sudden decision to leave I fear I greatly disappointed Editor E. S. Wilson of the Register, who, having read my books in boyhood, had greeted my advent with warmth and expected to have a day with me. The Scotch Irish.-At Ironton I had a brief interview with a patriarch now verging on his 80th year. Mr. John Campbell, long identified with the development of the iron industry of this locality. In my entire tour I had scarcely met with another of such grand patriarchial presence of great stature and singular benignancy of expression, he made me think of George Washington; this was increased when he told me he was from Virginia. He is from that strong Scotch Irish Presbyterian stock that gave to our country such men as Andrew Jackson, John C. Cal houn, the Alexanders of Princeton, Felix Houston of Texas, Horace Greeley, the McDowells, etc. Stonewall Jackson was one of them, and his famous brigade was largely composed of Scotch Irish, whose ancestors drifted down from Pennsylvania about 150 years ago and settled in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley about Augusta and Staunton. They were never to any extent, more than they could well help, a slaveholding people; indeed they have been noted for their love of civil and religious liberty. While in the American Revolution the Episcopalians of eastern Virginia largely deserted their homes, as numerous ruins of Episcopal churches there to-day attest, and followed King George, these "hard-headed blue Presbyterians," as one of their own writers called them, from the loins of the old Scotch Covenanters, were a strong reliance of Washington; On the Ohio.-How cheap traveling is by river. I go, say 100 miles by water, and pay $2.00 and they feed me as well as move me; a general custom on the Ohio and Mississippi river boats. This is a large comfortable boat, and I'm given ice-cream for both dinner and supper, and for drink any amount of Ohio river water, now filled with broken ice, a remarkably soft, palatable beverage. Persons inexperienced in traveling on the western rivers often see the expression, "wharf boat" and it puzzles them. Owing to the continual changes in the level of western rivers, in seasons of extreme flood rising fifty and more feet, permanent wharves for the receipt of freight and passengers are impossible. So flat bottomed scows floored and roofed, called wharf boats are used. The steamboats are moored alongside and the passengers go on the wharf boat on a plank, cross it and then on other planks reach land. The river passes between the steamboat and wharf-boat with frightful velocity. The instance is hardly known of a passenger falling between the two, no matter how good a swimmer he was, escaping death; he is drawn under the wharf boat; many have thus been drowned. At night light is shed over the scene by a huge lump of burning coal taken from the furnace and suspended from a wire basket: if this does not give sufficient light a handful of powdered resin is thrown on it. The scene at a landing on a dark night is picturesque. The passengers crowding ashore, the confusing yells of the porters on the wharf-boats, the hustling to and fro of the deck hands, while the dancing flames from the burning coal blowing in the wind throws a lurid, changing light over the spot, rendering the enveloping darkness beyond still more awe inspiring. This with the thought that a fall overboard is death makes an unpleasant impression. Hence as it is excessively dark and I cannot see well after night I dread the landing; for a single foot slip may be fatal. When the Ohio some forty years ago was the main artery for traffic and passengers. these river towns were greatly prosperous; the river was the continuous subject of conversation. When neighbor met neighbor the question would be "How's the river?" "Good stage of water, eh?" Even their very slang came from it. In expressing contempt for another they would say, "Oh he's a nobody-nothing but a little stern wheel affair; don't draw over six inches." The Old Time Traveling upon the great rivers of the West, the Ohio and Mississippi, was unlike anything of our day. All classes were brought in close social contact often for days and sometimes for weeks together, and it was an excellent school in which to observe character. It was as a pilot on the Mississippi that Mark Twain took some early lessons in the gospel of humor which he has since been preaching with such telling effect. And I think the people like it for I have ever observed that when a good text is selected from that gospel, and a good preacher talks from it, saints and sinners arm in arm, alike rush in great waves, fill the pews, overflow the aisles, bubble up and foam through the galleries, and none drop asleep no matter how lengthy the discourse. So Love and Humor with their companions, Good Will and Cheerfulness, serene and white robed, take us gently by the hand and lead us over the rough places to the ever smiling valleys and to the eternal fountains. On the steamboats up the river, on their way to Washington and Congress, went the great political lights of the South and WestHenry Clay, Andrew Jackson, Tom Benton, Gen. Harrison, Tom Corwin, Yell of Arkansas, Poindexter of Mississippi, and Col. Crockett of Tennessee, the hero of the Alamo, whose great legacy was a single sentence Be sure you are right and then go ahead." Arrived at Wheeling the passengers were packed in stage coaches for a ride of two or three days more on the National road over the mountains:packed a dozen inside, eight facing each other and knees more or less interlocking. At that period the country east was cobwebbed with stage roads. The traveling public, men, women and children, were crammed into stages and sent tentering in all directions up and down the hillsides and through the valleys, the stages stopping every ten miles at wayside taverns to change horses, when the passengers often largely patronized the bar. Now and then an upset from a hilarious driver made a sad business of it. The fares in the northern States were usually six cents, and in the southern States ten cents a mile. Steamboat Racing.-In that day on the steamers scenes of dissipation were common. Every boat had its bar, liquors were cheap and gambling was largely carried on, knots gathering around little tables and money sometimes openly and unblushingly displayed, as I saw when I first knew the river, now nearly half a century ago. Steamboat racing was at one time largely indulged in and strange as it may appear, when a race was closely contested, the passengers would often become so excited as to overcome their beginning timidity and urge the captain to put on more steam; then even the women would sometimes scream and clap their hands as they passed a rival boat. An explosion was a quick elevating process. The racing "brag boat,' Moselle," which exploded at Cincinnati, April 26, 1838, hurled over two hundred passengers into eternity. For a few moments the air was filled with human bodies and broken timber to fall in a shower into the river and on the shore near by. The captain of one of those large passenger boats was a personage of importance, the lord of a traveling domain. His will was law. And when he carried some notable characters such as Henry Clay or Andrew Jackson, his pride in his position one can well imagine. Thorough men of the world, some of them were gentlemen in the best sense, whose great ambition was to well serve the floating populations under their care. Experience of an Old Time River Man.— A fine specimen of the old time river men is Capt. John F. Devenny whom I met at Steubenville on this tour. He has known the river from early in this century. In conversation he gave me some of his experi ences. He was born in 1810 in Westmoreland Co., Pa., near the mouth of the Youghiogheny, pronounced there by the people for short, "Yough." In 1815 his father removed with his family to Steubenville which since has been the captain's residence. Steubenville was the first considerable manufacturing point in south-eastern Ohio, and his father put up there the machinery for a large woolen factory, a paper mill, and a grist mill. In 1829, at the age of 19, Mr. Devenny was an engineer on a river boat; in 1835, commanded a boat which ran from Pittsburg to St. Louis and New Orleans. In the war he was captain of a transport engaged in the Vicksburg campaign. "In the early days of boating," said he, "drinking and gambling were almost universal. I found in my first experiences I was being drawn into the vortex; the fondness for drink and the passion for gaming were getting a hold upon me. I stopped short off and was saved. A large part of the young men who went on the river died drunkards. Of those who went with me on the first boat, the 'Ruhamah,' I am the sole survivor. On my own boat I never allowed gambling. I have outlived two generations of river men who have perished mainly from intemperance. I ascribe my long life to my refraining from such habits and the longevity of my family." His father lived to the age of 96, and the captain himself, a large, fine-looking gentleman, seems at seventy-six as one in his prime. An Amusing Incident occurred when he |