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treme richness of the soil, the wine is but poor stuff; very different from the good Vin de la Côte I have drunk at the original Vevay, on the border of the Lake of Geneva. .
. . Some of these Swiss have built very good brick houses, which appeared considerably more tidy than those of their American neighbours. They told me they had suffered a great deal from fevers and sickness, and many of them wished themselves back again at their native mountains, which, however barren, are at any rate healthy.
After remaining here two days I embarked in another small flat boat. The men in it were by no means so rough as those I had lately encountered; nevertheless, after I had rowed in the evening to keep myself warm,, they ever afterwards considered me as a useful hand, and when it came to my turn, even at night, they would wake me up, with “ Come, stranger, it is now your turn to row a little.” isin i leston is As, we approached Louisville, I was astonished at the noise made by the rapids. During the night, and when we were six miles off, I heard them. so distinctly, that in spite of the assurances of the boatmen, I felt a little uneasy, knowing, that, if . we were carried down them without a pilot, neither the boat nor its inmates would ever be seen again. As I fared very badly, and was very uncomfortable in my voyage down the river, I was
delighted to find myself again at Louisville. Here I met the person who had been my companion in the other boat. He was in pursuit of the rascal of a master, who had robbed him of 400 dollars, the same evening he left Vevay, and had escaped during the night, which happened to be very dark. His · After remaining quiet a few days to recover from my fatigue, I mounted my horse, rode down to the ferry below the rapids, and crossing the Ohio, proceeded on my journey to the West.
After the very hard frost, which came on just as I left Frankfort, there had been several days rain, the usual commencement of winter in this part of the country. The roads in Indiana were almost impassable, even on horseback. The day after I crossed the river, the frost again set in; and the roads becoming worse, I could with difficulty proceed from eighteen to twenty miles between sun-rise and sun-set; having to walk a great part of the way, leading my horse by the bridle. The frost had followed the rain so immediately, that the drops were frozen on all the trees, which in the rays of the setting sun appeared loaded with diamonds, and as I rode through the forest, put me in mind of the gem-bearing trees in the beautiful tale of Aladdin. se.. - At Greenville, a collection of straggling cabins, I stopped at a house kept by a Mr. Porter, a man from the New England States. This tavern, though small, was without exception the most clean and comfortable I had ever been in since. I crossed the Alleghanies. Whenever indeed you stop at the house of a New Englander, you are certain to receive more attention, and to find every thing cleaner and of a better quality, than in a tavern kept by a Southern or Western man.
The Western Americans, and particularly those of Indiana, are more rough and unpolished in their manners than those of any country I ever travelled in..
Occasionally, after a long day's ride, when I have arrived cold and tired at the house where I intended to stop, I have dismounted, walked in, and upon finding the master, and perhaps one of his sons, seated by the fire, I have addressed him with, “ Sir, can I stay at your house to-night, and þave some supper for myself and food for my horse ?” and then he has just turned his head round, and without rising, has said, “ I reckon you can." Upon further inquiry where I could put my horse, my host has replied, “ There is a stable behind the house." I have then had to rub down and feed my own horse. . i
Those who have not tried this after riding all day, do not know how disagreeable it is. At the same time, I am certain that no kind of incivility was intended. All the people living in the same neighbourhood being nearly equal in point of wealth and education (with little enough of either), are not
accustomed to show one another any attention, and therefore extend the same want of ceremony to the strangers who may chance to come to their houses. Besides, in these wild parts, there is often a distance of ten or fifteen miles between : each cabin, even on the chief roads; and off the roads, a person might travel fifty miles without seeing any habitation whatsoever. A man, therefore, who rem ceives a traveller in his house, and gives him a bed and food, considers with justice, that he confers a favour on his guest, even though he charge some trifle for his hospitality. For let any one imagine the alternative of either sleeping out in a cold night, without any thing to eat, or of staying in a log cabin, by a good blazing fire, with plenty of venison-steaks and corn-cake! Surely the traveller must acknowledge, that the paying about the value of eighteen-pence or two shillings, by no means cancels the obligation which he owes to the landlord.
In speaking of the houses at which I stopped, after crossing the Ohio, I make use of the word Tavern; but let not the English reader be misled by a word; for there is not one of these taverns that deserves to be compared to the common sort of our public houses. I have often laughed to see, fixed upon a miserable log cabin, a rough Sign, on which has been painted “ Washington Hotel,” or some such high sounding name, though the house probably contained only one, or at most only two rooms. Generally however, both in Illinois and Indiana, there is no Sign at all. A traveller enters without scruple any house near the-road side, and breakfasts, or stays all night, even if the owner does not profess to keep a tavern: for every one is glad to have a stranger stop with him, as it gives him an opportunity of hearing some news, and also brings him in a dollar or so, if he chooses to accept any thing for his hospitality.
Owing to the great rise of the water, I found some difficulty in crossing Blue River, over which there was neither bridge nor ferry; and though swimming on horseback is not unpleasant in warm weather, I do not myself think it particularly agreeable during a hard frost. But I fortunately discovered some men with a canoe, in which I crossed over, taking off my saddle and saddle bags, and obliging my horse to-swim.
Near this are some pretty extensive “ Barrens." The Americans apply this term to those tracts of land, which, being covered with low shrubs and brushwood, much resemble what we call in England « Copses.” The country beyond Blue River, is covered for the most part with thick forest. This grows upon a limestone formation; and in consequence, the whole country abounds with pits and caverns, some of which are of considerable magnitude. From these caverns great quantities of salt-petre have been obtained.
I now came to a large stream, called “ Sinking