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But he whom Sadness sootheth may abide, Where'er we tread, 't is haunted, holy ground, And scarce regret the region of his birth, No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould,

When wandering slow by Delphi's sacred side, But one vast realın of wonder spreads around,

Or gazing o'er the plains where Greek and Persian And all the Muse's tales seem truly lold,


Till the sense aches with gazing to behold
The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon:

Let such approach this consecrated land,
Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold,

And pass in peace along the magic waste; Defies the power which crushi’d thy temples gone:

But spare its relics-let no busy hand Age shakes Athena's tower, bůt spares grey Mara

Deface the scenes, already how defaced! thon.

Not for such purpose were these altars placed : LXXXIX.

Revere the remnants nations once revered :

So may our country's name be undisgraced, The sun, the soil, but not the slave, the saine;

So mayst thou prosper where thy youth was rear’ıl, Lnchanged in all except ils foreign lord

By every honest joy of love and life endear'd! Preserves alike its bounds and boundless fame The Battle-field, where Persia's victim horde

XCIV. First bow'd beneath the brunt of Hellas' sword,

For thee, who thus in 100-protracted song As on the morn, lo distant Glory dear,

Hast soothed thine idlesse with inglorious lays, When Marathon became a magic Word ;(1)

Soon shall thy voice be lost amid the throng Which ulter'd, to the hearer's eye appear

Of louder minstrels in these later days : The camp, the host, the fight, the conqueror's career,

To such resign the strise for fading bays

Ill may such contest now the spirit move

Which heeds nor keen reproach nor partial praise; The flying Mede, his shaftless broken bow;

Since cold each kinder heart that might approve, The fiery Greek, his red pursuing spear;

And none are left to please when none are left to love. Mountains above, Earth’s, Ocean's plain below;

XCV. Death in the front, Destruction in the rear ! Such was the scene-what now remaineth here? Thou too art gone, thou loved and lovely one! What sacred trophy marks the hallow'd ground,

Whom youth and youth's affections bound to me; Recording Freedom's smile and Asia's tear ? Who did for me what none beside have done, The rifled urn, the violated mound, (around.

Nor shrank from one albeit unworthy thee. The dust thy courser's hoof, rude stranger! spurns

What is my being? thou hast ceased to be!

Nor staid to welcome here thy wanderer home, XCI.

Who mourns o'er hours which we no more shall Yet to the remnants of thy splendour past Shall pilgrims, pensive, but unwearied, throng;

Would they had never been, or were to come! Long shall the voyager, with the lonian blast,

Would he had ne'er return'd to find fresh cause to Hail the bright clime of battle and of song;

rvam! Long shall thine annals and immortal tongue

XCVI. Fill with thy fame the youth of many a shore;

Oh! ever loving, lovely, and beloved ! Boast of the aged! lesson of the young !

How selfish Sorrow ponders on the past, Which sages venerate and bards adore,

And clings to thoughls now better far removed ! As Pallas and the Muse unveil their awful lore.

But Time shall tear thy shadow from me last. XCII.

All thou couldst have of mine, stern Death! thou The parted bosom clinys to wonted home,


[friend : If aught that's kindred cheer the welcome hearth; The parent, friend, and now the more than He that is lonely, hither let him roam,

Ne'er yet for one thine arrows flew so fast, And gaze complacent on congenial earth.

And grief with grief continuing still to blend, Greece is no ligthsome land of social mirth : Hath snatch'd the little joy that life had yet to lend.


resistance. Colonna is no less a resort of painters than os pirates; (1) “Siste, viator-heroa calcas !” was the epilaplı on the fatere

mous Count Merci;—what then must be our feelings when standing

on the lumulus of the two hundred (Greeks) who selon Marathon? * The hirelin artist plants his paltry desk, And makes degradrid Suure ricturesque."

The principal barrow has recently been opened by Fauvel : few (ico liud, sun's lead yo june lives, etc.) or no relics, as vases, etc. were found by the excavator. The

plain of Marathon was offered to me for sale at the sum of sixteen But there Nature, with the aid o! Art, has one that for herseil. 'thousand piastres, about nine hundred pounds! Alas!—"Espende I was fortanate enough to engage a very superior German artist; '-quot libras in duce summo – invenies !” – Was the dust of nd bape 10 renew my acquaintance with this and many other Miltiades worth no more? It could scarcely have feiched less is Levantine scenes, by the arrival of perfomances.

| sold by weighi.


broken upon it!-has been locked up by the ConThen must I plunge again into the crowd,

sul, and Lusieri has laid his complaint before the And follow all that Peace disdains to seek?

Waywode. Lord Elgin has been extremely happy Where Revel calls, and Laughter, vainly loud,

in his choice of Signor Lusieri. During a residence False to the heart, distorts the hollow cheek,

of ten years in Athens, he never had the curiosity To leave the flagging spirit doubly weak;

to proceed as far as Sunium (now Cape Colonna), Still o'er the features, which perforce they cheer, till he accompanied us in our second excursion. To feign the pleasure or conceal the pique;

llowever, his works, as far as they go, are most Smiles form the channel of a future tear,

beautiful : but they are almost all unfinished. Or raise the writhing lip with ill-dissembled sneer.

While he and his patrons confine themselves 10

lasting medals, appreciating cameos, sketching XCVIII.

columns, and cheapening gems, their little abWhat is the worst of woes that wait on age?

surdilies are as harmless as insect or fox-hunting, Whal stamps the wrinkle deeper on the brow ?

maiden-speechifying, barouche-driving, or any To view each loved one blotted from life's page, such pastime; but when they carry away three or And be alone on earth, as I am now. (1) four shiploads of the most valuable and massy Before the Chastener humbly let me bow, relics that time and barbarism have left to the most O'er hearts divided and o’er hopes destroy'd : injured and most celebrated of cities ; when they Roll on, vain days! full reckless may ye flow,

destroy, in a vain attempt to tear down, those works Since Time hath reft whate'er my soul enjoy d, which have been the admiration of ages, I know no And with the ills of Eld mine earlier years alloy’d. motive which can excuse, no name which can desig

nate, the perpetrators of this dastardly devastation.

It was not the least of the crimes laid to the charge APPENDIX.

of Verres, that he had plundered Sicily in the manner since imitated at Athens. The most unblushing

impudence could hardly go farther than to affix the CANTO II.

name of its plunderer to the walls of the Acropolis; Note [A.] See p. 94.

while the wanton and useless defacement of the

whole range of the basso-relievos, in one compartToo rive what Goth, and Turk, and Time hath spared." ment of the temple, will never permit that name to

Stanza xii. line 2.

be pronounced by an observer without execration. At this moment (January 3, 1810), besides what On this occasion I speak impartially : I am not a has been already deposited in London, an Hydriot collector or admirer of collections, consequently vessel is in the Pyræus to receive every portable no rival; but I have some early prepossessions in relic. Thus, as I heard a young Greek observe, in favour of Gree and do not think the honour of common with many of his countrymen-for, lost as England advanced by plunder, whether of India or they are, they yet feel on this occasion-thus may

Attica. Lord Elgin boast of having ruined Athens. An Ita.

Another noble Lord has done better, because he lian painter of the first eminence, named Lusieri, has done less; but some others, more or less noble, is the agent of devastation ; and, like the Greek yet “all honourable men," have done besi, befinder of Verres in Sicily who followed the same cause, after a deal of excavation, and execration, profession, he has proved the able instrument of bribery to the Waywode, mining and counterplunder. Between this artist and the French Con- mining, they have done nothing at all. We had sul Fauvel, who wishes to rescue the remains for such ink-shed, and wine-shed, which almost ended his own government, there is now a violent dis- in bloodshed ! Lord E.'s “prig”-see Jonathan pute concerning a car employed in their convey-Wild for the definition of “ priggism”-quarrelled ance, the wheel of which-I wish they were both with another, Gropius (2) by name (a very good

(1) This stanza was wrillen October 11, 1811; upon which day answered Matthias; "he could not otherwise have written such the poet, in a letter to a friend, says, “It seems as though I a poem."-E. were to experience in my youth the greatest misery of age. My (2) This Sr. Gropius was employed by a noble Lord for the sole friends fall around me, and I shall be left a lonely tree before purpose of sketching, in which he excels; but I am sorry to say, I am withered. Other men can always take refuge in their fa- that he has, through the abused sanction of that most respectable milies: I have no resource but my own reflections, and they pre- name, been treading at humble distance in the steps of Sr. Lusieri. sent no prospect here or hereafter, except the sellish satisfaction - A shipsul of his trophies was detained, and I believe confiscated, of surviving my friends. Lam indeed very wretched." In refer- ! at Constantinople, in 1810. I am most happy to be now enabled ence to this stanza, “Surely,” said Professor Clarke to the author to state, that “this was not in his bond;" that he was employed of the Pursuits of Literature, Lord Byron cannot have expe- solely as a painter, and that his noble patron disavows all conrienced such heen anguish as these exquisite allusions to what nection with liim, except as an artist. If the error in the first older men may have selt seem to denote." _“I fear he has,", and second edition of this poem has given the noble Lord a

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name, too, for his business) and muttered something to follow as I would to anticipate him. But some about satisfaction, in a verbal answer to a note of few observations are necessary to the text. The the poor Prussian: this was stated at table to Gro-Arnaouts, or Albanese, struck me forcibly by their pius, who laughed, but could eat no dinner after- resemblance to the Highlanders of Scotland, in svards. The rivals were not reconciled when I left | dress, figure, and manner of living. Their very Greece. I have reason to remember their squabble, mountains seemed Caledonian, with a kinder clifor they wanted to make me their arbitrator. mate. The kilt, though white; the spare active

form ; their dialect, Celtic in its sound; and their NOTE (B.] See p. 97.

hardy habits, all carried me back to Morven. No

nation are so detested and dreaded by their neigh* Land of Albania! let me bend mine eyes

bours as the Albanese; the Grecks hardly regard On thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men!" Stanza ilxviii. lines 5 and 6.

them as Christians, or the Turks as Moslems; and

in fact they are a mixture of both, and sometimes Albania comprises part of Macedonia, Illyria, neither. Their habits are predatory—all are armed; Chaonia, and Epirus. Iskander is the Turkish word and the red-shawled Arnaouts, the Montenegrins, for Alexander; and the celebrated Scanderbeg Chimariots, and Gegdes, are treacherous; the others (Lord Alexander) is alluded to in the third and differ somewhat in garb, and essentially in characfourth lines of the thirty-eighth stanza. I do not ter. As far as my own experience goes, I can speak know whether I am correct in making Scanderbeg favourably. I was attended by two, an Infidel and the countryman of Alexander, who was born at a Mussulman, to Constantinople and every other l'ella in Macedon, but Mr. Gibbon terms him so, part of Turkey which came within my observation; and adds Pyrrhus to the list, in speaking of his and more faithful in peril, or indefatigable in seresploits.

vice, are rarely to be found. The Infidel was named Of Albania Gibbon remarks, that a country Basilius; the Moslem, Dervish Tahiri; the former a “ within sight of Italy is less known than the inte- man of middle age, and the latter about my own. rior of America.” Circumstances, of little conse- Basili was strictly charged, by Ali Pacha in person, quence to mention, led Mr. Hobhouse and myself to attend us; and Dervish was one of fifty who acinto that country before we visited any other part companied us through the forests of Acarnania to of the Ottoman dominions; and, with the exception the banks of Achelous, and onward to Missolonghi of Major Leake, then officially resident at Joannina, in Ætolia. There I took him into my own service, no other Englishmen have ever advanced beyond and never had occasion to repent it till the moment the capital into the interior, as that gentleman very of my departure. lately assured me. Ali Pacha was at that time (Oc- When, in 1810, after the departure of my friend wher, 1809) carrying on war against Ibrahim Pacha, Mr. Hobhouse for England, I was seized with a ahom he had driven to Berat, a strong fortress, severe fever in the Morea, these men saved my life which he was then besieging : on our arrival at by frightening away my physician, whose throat Joannina we were invited to Tepaleni, his high- they threatened to cut if I was not cured within a Dess's birthplace, and favourite Serai, only one given time. To this consolatory assurance of postday's distance from Berat; at this juncture the Vi- humous retribution, and a resolute refusal of Dr. zier had made it his head-quarters. After some Romanelli's prescriptions, I attributed my recovery. stay in the capital, we accordingly followed; but, I had left my last remaining English servant at boagh furnished with every accommodation, and Athens; my dragoman was as ill as myself; and my förorted by one of the Vizier's secretaries, we were poor Arnaouts nursed me with an attention which bine days (on account of the rains) in accomplishing would have done honour to civilisation. They had

juurney which, on our return, barely occupied a variety of adventures; for the Moslem, Dervish, four

. On our route we passed two cities, Argyro- being a remarkably handsome man, was always castro and Libochabo, apparently little inferior to squabbling with the husbands of Athens ; insomuch panina in size; and no pencil or pen can ever do that four of the principal Turks paid me a visit of justice to the scenery in the vicinity of Zitza and remonstrance at the convent, on the subject of Delvinachi , the frontier village of Epirus and Alba- his having taken a woman from the bath-whom he

had lawfully bought, however-a thing quite conOn Albania and its inhabitants I am unwilling to trary lo etiquette. Basili also was extremely galdescant, because this will be done so much better lant amongst his own persuasion, and had the by my fellow-traveller, in a work which may prob- greatest veneration for the church, mixed with the ably precede this in publication, that I as little wish highest contempt of churchmen, whom he cuffed ure=nt's pain, I am very sorry for it: Sr. Gropius has assumed for one of the first to be undeceived. Indeed, I have as much pleasure praes the name of his agent ; and, though I cannot much condemn in contradicting this as I felt regret in stating it.-Note to third Byself for sharing in the mistake of so many, I am happy in being edition.

nia Proper.

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upon occasion in a most heterodox manner. Yet “I have been a robber; I am a soldier; no captain he never passed a church without crossing himself; ever struck me; you are my master, I have eaten and I remember the risk he ran in entering St. your bread, but, by that bread! (a usual oath) had Sophia, in Stambol, because it had once been a it been otherwise, I would have stabbed the dog place of his worship. On remonstrating with him your servant, and gone to the mountains.” So the on his inconsistent proceedings, he invariably affair ended, but from that day forward he never answered, “ Our church is holy, our priests are thoroughly forgave the thoughtless fellow who inthieves;" and then he crossed himself as usual, and sulled him. Dervish excelled in the dance of his boxed the ears of the first “papas” who refused to country,conjectured to be a remnant of the ancient assist in any required operation, as was always Pyrrhic: be that as it may, it is manly, and requires found to be necessary where a priest had any influ- wonderful agility. It is very distinct from the ence with the Cogia Bashi of his village. Indeed, a stupid Romaika, the dull round-about of the Greeks, ' more abandoned race of miscreants cannot exist of which our Athenian party had so many specithan the lower orders of the Greek clergy.

When preparations were made for my return, The Albanians in general (I do not mean the culmy Albanians were summoned to receive their pay. tivators of the earth in the provinces, who have also Basili took his with an awkward show of regret at that appellation, but the mountaineers) have a fine my intended departure, and marched away to his cast of countenance; and the most beautiful woquarters with his bag of piastres. I sent for Der- men I ever beheld, in stature and in features, we saw vish, but for some time he was not to be found; at levelling the road, broken down by the torrents, last he entered, just as Signor Logotheti, father to between Delvinachi and Liboahabo. Their manner the ci-devant Anglo-consul of Athens, and some of walking is truly theatrical; but this strut is proother of my Greek acquaintances, paid me a visit. bably the effect of the capote, or cloak depending Dervish took the money, but on a sudden dashed from one shoulder. Their long hair reminds you it to the ground; and clasping his hands, which he of the Spartans, and their courage in desultory raised to his forehead, rushed out of the room, warfare is unquestionable. Though they have some weeping bitterly. From that moment to the hour cavalry amongst the Gegdes , I never saw a good of my embarkation, he continued his lamentations; Arnaout horseman; my own preferred the English and all our efforts to console him only produced saddles, which, however, they could never keep. this answer, Messivsi," “ He leaves me.” Signor But on foot they are not to be subdued by fatigue. Logotheti, who never wept before for any thing less than the lo:s of a para (about the fourth of a far

Note (C.). See p. 102. thing), melted; the padre of the convent, my attend

While thus in concert," ele. ants, my visitors—and I verily believe that even

Stanza lxxii. line last. Sterne's “ foolish fat scullion” would have left her “ fish-kettle,” to sympathise with the unaffected

As a specimen of the Albanian or Arnaout dialect and unexpected sorrow of this barbarian.

of the Illyric, I here insert two of their most popu- 1 For my own part, when I remembered that, a lar choral songs, which are generally chanted in i short time before my departure from England, a dancing by men or women indiscriminately. The noble and most intimate associate had excused first words are merely a kind of chorus without himself from taking leave of me because he had to meaning, like some in our own and all other lanattend a relation “to a milliner's," I felt no less

guages. surprised than humiliated by the present occur- Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Lo, lo, I come, I come; rence and the past recollection. That Dervish

Naciarura, popuso.

be thou silent. would leave me with some regret was to be ex

Naciarura na civin I come, I run; open pected : when master and man have been scram

Ha pen derini ti hin.

the door that I may bling over the mountains of a dozen provinces

enter. together, they are unwilling to separate ; but his


ре present feelings, contrasted with his native ferocity,

uderi escrotini, Open the door by

Ti vin ti mar servetini. halves, that I may improved my opinion of the human heart. I believe this almost feudal fidelity is frequent amongst

take my turban. them. One day, on our journey over Parnassus, an

Caliriote me surme Caliriotes (1) with the Englishman in my service gave him a push in some

Ea ha pe pse dua live. dark eyes, open the dispute about the baggage, which he unluckily

gate, that I may en

ter. mistook for a blow; he spoke not, but sat down leaning his head upon his hands. Foreseeing the consequences, we endeavoured to explain away the

(0) The Albanese, particularly the women, are frequently termed affront, which produced the following answer :-- “ Calirioles;" for what reason I inquired in vain.


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my soul.

Buo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Lo, lo! I hear thee, Eli mi bire a piste si soul, but thou hast Gi egem spirta esimi

gui dendroi tiltati. left me like a wiго.

thered tree. i Caliriote su le funde An Arnaout girl, in Udi vura udorini udiri If I have placed my Eda vete tunde lunde. costly garb, walks

cicova cilti mora hand on thy bosom, with graceful pride. Udorini talti hollna u what have l gained ? Caliriote me surme

ede caimoni mora. Caliriot maid of the

!ny hand is withTi mi put e poi mi le. dark eyes, give me

drawn, but retains

the flame. a kiss. Se ti puta citi mora If I bave kissed thee,

I believe the last two slanzas, as they are in a Si mi ri ni veli udo what hast thou gain- different measure, ought to belong to another balgia,

ed? My soul is con- lad. An idea something similar to the thought in

sumed with fire. the last lines was expressed by Socrates, whose arm Va le ni il che cadale Dance lightly, more

having come in contact with one of his “ útoról.Tene,"

Critobulus or Cleobulus, the philosopher com| Celo more, more celo. gently, and gently

plained of a shocting pain as far as his shoulder for still.

some days after, and therefore very properly rePlu hari ti tirete Make not so much dust

solved to teach his disciples in future without Plu huron cia pra seti. to destroy your em- touching them.

broidered hose. The last stanza would puzzle a commentalor: the

NOTE (L.) See p. 103. men have certainly buskins of the most beautiful

Fair Greece ! and relic of departed worih! lexture, but the ladies (lo whom the above is sup

Immortal, though no more ; though,fallen, greal." posed to be addressed) have nothing under their

Slanza lxviii, lines 1 and 2 little yellow boots and slippers but a well-turned and sometimes very while ankle. The Arnaout

1 girls are much handsomer than the Greeks, and their dress is far more picturesque. They preserve Before I say any thing about a city of which every their shape much longer also, from being always in body, traveller or not, has thought it necessary to the open air. It is to be observed, that the Arnaout say something, I will request Miss Owenson, when is not a written language: the words of this song, she next borrows an Athenian heroine for her fuur therefore, as well as the one which follows, are volumes, to have the goodness to marry her to somespelt according to their pronunciation. They are body more of a gentleman than a “ Disdar Aga” copied by one who speaks and understands the dia- (who by the by is not an Aga), the most impolite of lect perfectly, and who is a native of Athens. petty officers, the grcalest patron of larceny Athens

ever saw (except Lord E.), and the unworthy occuNidi sefda linde ula I am wounded by thy

pant of the Acropolis, on a handsome annual stipend vossa

love, and have loved Vettimi úpri vi lofsa. but to scorch my

of 150 piastres (eight pounds sterling), out of which

he has only to pay his garrison, the most ill-reguself.

lated corps in the ill-regulated Ottoman Empire. Ah vaisisso mi privi Thou hast consumed I speak it tenderly, seeing I was once the cause of lofse

me ! Ah ! maid ! the husband of"Ida of Athens" nearly suffering the Si mi rini mi la vosse. thou hast struck me bastinado; and because the said “ Disdar” is a

to the heart.

turbulent husband, and beats his wife; so that I Uli tasa roba stua I have said I wish no

exhort and beseech Miss Owenson to sue for a sepaSitli eve lulati dua. dowry, but thine

rate maintenance in behalf of “ Ida.” Having pre

mised thus much, on a matter of such import to the eyes and eye-lashes.

readers of romances, I may now leave Ida, to menRoba stinori ssidua The accursed dowry I tion her birthplace. Qu mi sini vetti dua. want not, but thee Setting aside the magic of the name, and all those


associations which it would be pedantic and superQurmini dua civileni Give me thy charms,

fluous to recapitulate, the very situation of Athens Roba ti siarmi tildi and let the portion

would render it the favourile of all who have eyes eni. feed the flames.

for art or nature. The climate, to me at least, ap

peared a perpetual spring; during eight months I Utara pisa vaisisso me I have loved thee,

never passed a day without being as many hours on simi rin ti hapti maid, with a sincere

horseback: rain is extremely rare, snow never lies

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