and Pyrmont (father-in-law of Prince Leopold); and at Berg und Thal, on the road to Xanthen, in a grove, is Prince Maurice's iron tomb (1625). Frederick the Great lived at Schloss Moyland.

The confluence of the Waal and the Lower Rhine, or Leck, the two branches of the Rhine, takes place at a distance of eight or nine miles above Nymegen, on the former, and Arnhem on the latter. Here are dams, dykes, and jetties regulating the waters, so that no more than two-thirds of the tributaries should enter into the Waal, and only one-third into the Leck. On these hydraulic works depend the physical existence of Holland. The vigilance used by the engineers in strengthening them, saved the country from being inundated in the floods of 1784.

At Aart a safety-valve is formed by a dam thrown across an old arm of the Rhine. In the event of its waters at Arnheim attaining a certain height, a new passage to the sea would be formed for the Rhine in less than five minutes, which would suffice to sweep away the dam.

Lobith is seen to the right, and marks the frontiers of Holland and Prussia. It is also the station of the Dutch custom-house, and the steamer, in descending, is delayed an hour or more in the examination of baggage, &c., by the officers. Opposite Lobith is the now decayed fortress of Schenkensschanz, once a formidable and muchprized stronghold, rendered important by its position on the tongue of land stretching into the Rhine and formed by the forking of that river. From close to this spot can be seen the towers and steeples of Cleves, towards which a railway runs. The next important station reached is

Emmerich (Station)—Hôtel: De Hollande-is situated on the right, and is the first Prussian garrisoned town we meet, with a population of 6,700. It is the seat of considerable industry, and has a very clean and neat appearance. The church of St. Aldegund and the Minster, the oldest, on the right bank of the Rhine, are the only objects of attractive interest. Here an examination of baggage takes place by the custom-house officers, and the passports are asked for and visé by the police. Starting from Emmerich, we see the small town of Rees, on the right arm.

Xanthen, or Xanten on the left, remarkable for its double spired church, and as being the Castra

vetera of the Romans. It has a population of 3,500; and tradition renders it memorable as being the spot where the Emperor Maximilian had beheaded St. Gereon, and the Theban Legion.

It

Wesel (Station)--Inn: Dornbusch-is situated at the confluence of the Lippe and the Rhine, diagonally opposite an artificial island, formed in 1785, by a cut of the river, and is the chief stronghold of the north-west frontier of Prussia. contains 18,400 inhabitants, and is the emporium of a very active trade. A connecting rail with Haltern (Station) was opened 1874; and another link finished 1875, to Venlo opens up a direct line from Paris to Hamburg, via Münster and Bremen. The direct line from Flushing is also open, via Breda, Tilburg, Boxtel, Goch, and Xanten. At Boxtel, lines come in from Eindhoven and Hasselt; and from Eindhoven, Helmond, and Venlo (from Düsseldorf).

At Wesel the Rhine is crossed by a bridge of boats, and is divided in two arms by the island of Büderich. The Rathhaus is the only building worth seeing. Close to Wesel there is a monument to the memory of the Prussian officers shot here, in 1809, by the French. To the left, facing Wesel, is Fort Blücher. At Wesel, also, Rapin wrote his history of England. Passing Orsoy to the left, we see on the right,

Ruhrort (Station)-Hotel: Ville de Clevesa coal depôt, situated at the mouth of the Ruhr, where it discharges itself into the Rhine. Nearly 3,000,000 tons of coal, the produce of the fields on the banks of the Ruhr, are deposited here annually.

Duisburg (Station)-Inn: Europaischer Hofon the Lys. A town of considerable manufacturing importance, with a population of 43,000. It has Reiss's monument to Gerhardt Kremer, who is claimed as the inventor of Mercator's Chart, German-Krämer, Latin - Mercator (see Rupelmonde, page 31). Duisburg is connected with Cologne by the Minden and Cologne railway, and persons wishing to go on to Cologne or Baden will do well to leave the steamer here, and take the train.

The Valley of the Ruhr deserves to be explored if time permit. The following will be found its most interesting spots: Hohen Syburg, Blankenstein,

Werden, Ketling, and Mühlheim, from which a line to Kettwig is open-one of several in this busy valley. Uerdingen (Station) is on the left bank, seated in a fertile plain, and encircled by poplar trees. It has about 2,000 inhabitants, principally employed in navigation and sheep and cattlo feeding. Not far from this place is Eichelskamp, where the French in 1795, first crossed the Rhine, with 25,000 men under the command of Lefébre. On the right we see Calcum, a railway station, about 1 mile from which is Kaiserswerth, for a long period the residence of the German emperors. It was formerly an island, and still contains the ruins of a Castle, built by Pepin d'Heristal, from which the Archbishop of Cologne, Hanno, carried off the emperor Henry II., when only a child of two years, from his mother. Its Church is a remarkable building of the thirteenth century, and contains the shrine of St. Suibert, an English monk, who preached here in the eighth century. In this place also, there is a Deaconess Institution, founded by Fleidner, a protestant clergyman. Population, 1,750.

DÜSSELDORF (Station).—Hotels:

Hotel de l'Europe, near the railway station, post office, and landing places of the Rhine steamers.

Breidenbach, or Hotel Disch.

Resident English Consul-General.

English Church Service at the German Protestant temple, Berger Strasse, at 11 a.m. and 4 30 p.m. on Sundays.

Düsseldorf is one of the prettiest and neatest towns on the Rhine, containing 101,200 inhabitants. It is seated on the right bank of the Rhine, which here attains a breadth of 400 yards. It was once a fortified town, but its fortifications, since the peace of Luneville, have disappeared, and their place is occupied by gardens and agreeable walks. Its objects of attraction are few-indeed it may be said that the Kunsthalle and the Royal Kunstakademie are the only ones. The celebrated gallery of pictures was removed to Munich in 1805; the present collection in the Kunsthalle is much inferior. The artists principally represented are:Cornelius, Knaus, Hasenclever, A. and O. Achenbach, and J. W. Schirmer. Tasso and the two Leonoras, by Carl Sohn, are brilliant executions of H

modern date. Part of the collection was burnt in the fire of March, 1872; but one good picture, Rubens's Ascension of the Virgin, was saved, and is now in the Kunstakademie.

There is also an interesting collection of drawings and engravings, amounting to 14,250 specimens, among which are many by Raphael, M. Angelo, Titian, and other celebrities. There are also copies of 300 water-colour drawings from the works of the different Italian schools, from the fourth century.

The Düsseldorf School of Painting, founded in 1828, by Cornelius, has an exhibition each summer of the paintings by water-colour artists. It opens in July, and continues open until September. At Dondorf there is a fine statue of Cornelius (born here, 1787), on a double pedestal. The Malkasten (Paint-box) Club meets at Jacobi's House. Mr. Schulte's Gallery of Modern Paintings, at 482, Alleestrasse, and Bismeyer and Kraus's, at No. 5, Elberfelderstrasse, are always worthy a visit, from their constantly containing the new pictures which are exhibited there as they are finished.

The Hofkirche, or church of St. Andrew, has some good paintings by Dusseldorf artists of the existing school. The church of St. Lambert, in which there are several interesting monuments; and the Jesuits church, containing a painting by Deger, representing the Virgin as she stands on clouds, holding the Saviour, are the only other objects of public interest.

The Hofgarten, one of the most beautiful gardens in Germany, will repay a visit; it is lined with good walks, and commands a good view of the Rhine. The Exhibition of 1880 was held near the Köln-Minden Station.

Düsseldorf is the seat of the provincial parliament of the Rhenish provinces, and is the residence of Prince Frederick of Prussia. Its situation on the Rhine contributes considerably to its prosperous and thriving condition. It is the emporium of the merchandise sent from the duchy of Berg, and the cutlery and iron ware from Sohlingen, as well as of the cloths and cottons of Elberfeld. Of the three quarters into which it is divided, Karlstadt and Neustadt are the best and cleanest, contrasting strongly with the close and filthy streets of Altstadt.

PEMPELFORT, situated on the east of the town, is remarkable as being the residence of the philosopher Jacobi, and the resort of Goethe, Wieland, Stolberg, and other literary celebrities. H. Heine was born at No. 3, Bolker Str.

HELLDORF Twelve miles from Düsseldorf, near Calcum Station, on the line to Duisburg, will repay a visit. Here is the house of Count Spec, which contains some excellent frescoes.

DUSSELTHAL-Three miles from Düsseldorf, is also worth a visit. It is an asylum for destitute children, 140 of whom receive a useful education, and are taught trades.

Railways-Düsseldorf to Cologne-time, one hour; to Elberfield, Minden, Hanover, Magdeburg, and Berlin, in 9 hours.

The steamer occupies, between Düsseldorf and Cologne, 5 hours in ascending, and 24 hours in descending.

Leaving Düsseldorf, we see on our left the steeple of Neuss (Station), where a connection is open via Schiefbahn, with München-Gladbach and Rheydt, 16 miles.

Benrath (Station).-From here we see a handsome château, built by the electors of Cleves, and occupied by Murat when Grand Duke.

Passing Zons, with its numerous towers, we cross the Kuppe, and arrive at

Mulheim-on-the-Rhine (Station), on our right, a fine prosperous town, 3 miles from Cologne. Population, 20,430. Not far removed is Stammheim, remarkable for its Gothic chapel, and as the residence of Count Fürstenberg.

ROUTE 21.

THE RHINE (C).

an interest, not only as being the resting place of the bones and ashes of emperors who wore the imperial purple, and swayed the mighty sceptre within its territorial boundaries, but as being adorned with some of the noblest gothic monuments of the middle ages, whilst every variety of rugged rock, and forests thick in stately elegance and sylvan grandeur; plains rich in fruitful vineyards, now perched like an eagle's eyry among lofty crags, and anon gently sloping to the water's edge, are scattered along as so many triumphs won by industry and energy in this rugged stronghold of nature. The Rhine, which is now entirely in German territory, is regarded by every German with a kind of reverence and affectionate interest, their poetry calling it "King Rhine;" and their resolve to guard it is attested in the popular song, "Die Wacht am Rhein." Old castles having a thousand legends connected with the traditional reminiscences of their history are met with as we are borne along its course. "And there they stand as stands a lofty mind, Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, All tenantless save to the crannying wind, Or holding dark communion with the crowdThere was a day when they were young and proud, Banners on high and battles passed below, But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, And those which waved are shredless dust ere now, And the bleak battlements shall bear no future blow." Populous cities, flourishing towns and villages, beautiful roads and healthy mineral springs are not wanting to add more attraction and beauty to that river whose waters supply choice fish, as the vineyards on its banks produce the choicest wine; "a river which," according to Dr. Lieber, "in its course of 800 miles, affords 630 miles of uninterrupted navigation from Basle to the sea, and enables the inhabitants of its banks to exchange the rich and various products of its shores for the choice

to Trèves.

This famous river, the entire aspect and character of which the Supreme Architect seems to have embellished with glorious scenery and picturesque grandeur, is no less remarkable for the combination of natural loveliness that characterises Its scenery, than for the historical traditions interwoven with every phase of its history, representing Roman conquests and defeats; feudal events full of chivalry and daring; and the wars and negotiations of modern days. Its banks possess

illustrious for commerce, for the encouragement of science, and fortifications, furnish protection to Germany, and are also famous as the seats of Roman colonies and of ecclesiastical councils, and are associated with many of the most important events recorded in the history of mankind."

The source of the Rhine, which, in its course to the ocean of over 320 leagues, is swelled by more than twelve thousand brooks and streamlets, rises, in the centre of the Alps, on the frontiers of Italy. Three brooks, uniting at the village

of Rheinau, in the Grisons, form this stream. The Fore Rhine rises on the eastern declivity of Mount St. Gothard, where from the lake Toma, which is enclosed by a wall of rocks of 9,000 feet, this rivulet breaks forth, and, being increased by the waters of some other brooks, near the village of Dissentis, joins the Middle Rhine, another torrent issuing from a similar lake near Mount Lukmanier. Fifteen leagues lower down, swelled by near sixty other brooks, both rivulets unite with the Hind Rhine, and thus united, form the river Rhine. The Hind Rhine, the most considerable of these three brooks, springs likewise in a ravine, which is some miles long, from among masses of rocks rising to the height of 9,000 feet, out of an ice mountain. which is five thousand feet above the level of the sea.

Rafts on the Rhine.-Every traveller on the Rhine is sure to meet vast floating islands of timber going down the stream. It will doubtless be to him an object of interest to learn what this novel spectacle means, its composition, object, and destination. They are called rafts, and are the produce of the forests covering the hills and mountains watered by the Rhine and its tributaries-the Neckar, the Murg, Main, and Moselle. After being felled, the trees are thrown down from their lofty heights, and cast into some stream sufficient to float them. Trunk after trunk is bound together, and conveyed from stream to stream, until floating islands are formed, which are navigated to Dordrecht, for sale at Neundorf.

As the mass swims along, it presents the appearance of a floating village, composed of eight or ten wooden houses on a large timber platform. Four or five hundred rowers and assistants are required to navigate the raft. These are directed by pilots and the proprietor, who lives on board the raft, in a house built expressly for him, superior in size to the others. The captain occupies an elevated position, which enables him to see and order all the steering and movements. The massive structure is directed by means of anchors and the immense oars placed fore and aft. The workpeople are accompanied by their wives and children, and knitting, sewing, &c., is carried on during the day. A very large quantity of provisions is consumed during the

voyage; as much as 46,000 lbs. of bread, 31,000 lbs. of meat, 600 tuns of beer, 8 or 10 butts of wine, 1,500 lbs. of butter, 10,000 lbs. of cheese, being the average quantity. The timber is sold at the end of the voyage, and often produces as much as £25,000, and oftentimes £30,000. The duration of the voyage varies from eight days to six weeks.

Steamers on the Rhine.-There are (or were) several Companies' steamers navigating the Rhine, now practically amalgamated into one, viz., the Düsseldorf, distinguished by having the funnels of their vessels marked with black and white stripes; the Cologne, by their black funnels; the Netherlands, by having the funnels painted half black and half white. Some boats do not go lower down the stream than Arnhem, passengers proceeding further are taken by the old Netherland Company's boats.

The Steamers are divided into three cabins-the Pavilion, the Chief Cabin, and the Fore Cabin. Refreshments are provided on board at a moderate rate, fixed by a printed tariff. In going up or down the Rhine in the river boats, if a person wishes, or is obliged, to travel with economy, he may take a second class ticket, and dine at the table d'hôte in the main cabin by paying the difference of fare between the two places for such time he is at dinner; or, in other words, he will pay 3s. instead of 2s. for his dinner; this is permitted when not too crowded. The quickest boats go in one day down the Rhine, from Mannheim to Cologne and Düsseldorf; Mayence to Düsseldorf; Düsseldorf to Rotterdam. Up the stream in one day from Cologne to Mayence, in summer, and to Coblenz in winter; Coblenz to Mannheim.

The following will be found the average time occupied on the voyage between

continue his journey when he pleases, up or down the river, by any of the Company's steamers; he has only to take care to have his ticket marked by the conductor of the boat before leaving it. For landing or embarking at any of these points the charge is 1d.

Scenery of the Rhine. The picturesque grandeur and beauties of the Rhine are first seen on arriving at the cluster of hills called Siebengebirge (Seven Mountains); and from this place, along the banks of the river as far as Mayence, scenes of surpassing loveliness and romantic beauty are Tourists hurriedly pasconstantly met with. sing up and down the river in a steam-boat cannot properly enjoy the scenery of the Rhine. A mere trip up or down the Rhine, such as English traveller s generally take, gives only an imperfect idea of the beauties of the river and its banks. If the tourist wishes to appreciate the Rhine, he must not hurry on but halt at the following places, which perhaps are the most appropriate ones that can be pointed out: Bonn, Coblenz, St. Goar, and Bingen, or Rüdesheim. Below Bonn, in the direction of Cologne, or above Mayence, there is scarcely any object which merits admiration.

We trace in the elevated Alps, in Switzerland, and near Mount St. Gothard, the sources of the Rhône, the Tessin, and the Rhine or the king of the German-nay, of the West European rivers. The visitor, on ascending the Rhine, or on his arrival at Strassburg, calls to his recollection that this stream has hastened its course through the lake of Constance; has precipitated itself over the rocky ramparts at Schaffhausen; then, strengthened by the collected waters of Switzerland-the influx of 370 glaciers, and upwards of 2,700 brooks and

streams

commenced its majestic course near the ancient Roman city of Bâle; expanding between the Upper Black Forest, amidst ranges of mountains encircling a valley of nearly 30 miles in breadth, through which it rapidly wound, receiving, besides other streams, the important Neckar and Main, until a rocky gate at Bingen seems to arrest its further career, through which it swiftly rushes, and strengthened by the Nahe and Moselle, overcomes a similar obstacle at Andernach, when it continues its victorious course towards the sea.

Cologne to Bonn by rail; or by Steamer,

18 English miles.

Cologne terminus close to the St. Pantaleon's Gate. Distance by water, 22 English miles. Steamers occupy 3 hours up, and 1 down. Travellers not desirous of visiting Bonn usually take the train as far as Remagen, and meet the steamer coming from Cologne. A railway runs near both banks of the river, all the way from Cologne to Mayence.

Cologne (Station). (See Route 18.)-The railway, quitting Cologne, passes, at a short distance from the Rhine, through a flat country, rich in corn fields, and in proximity to the Vorgebirge chain of hills, &c. The first station met with is at

Kalscheuren, a place of no importance, to the left. Leaving here we are quickly borne on to Brühl, a small town, containing a population of 3,000 souls.

Brühl (Station).-Remarkable as being the refuge of the Archbishop Engelbert, of Falkenberg, expelled from Cologne in 1824, and of the Cardinal Mazarin, when expelled from France. The elector, Clement Augustus, laid, in 1725, the foundation stone of the magnificent Castle of Augustenberg, finished by Maximilian Frederick, and now the property of the Prussian government. This castle lies on a beautiful promontory, which near Bonn, recedes from the Rhine, and ranges along in a picturesque manner, two miles from it. The King of Prussia, in 1845, received Queen Victoria in this castle during the Beethoven festival. The site is excellent, and the country around very picturesque and grand; over the stairs are beautiful platforms painted by Anducci and Carnioli. In the interior cultivated taste is combined with domestic comfort. Large fish ponds, shady groves, and a park which was formerly stocked with game encircle the castle; a linden walk takes us into a small wood to the beautiful hunting seat of Falkenlust. Leaving the last station we pass

Seechtem (Station) and Waldorf, where are the remains of a Roman aqueduct, and arrive at

Roisdorf (Station). Here there is an excellent mineral spring, whose water is preferable to that of Godesberg, because it retains its carbonic acid for a longer time, and therefore may be sent to a