deserving of being noticed. This church also possesses a large and excellent organ by the elder Koenig, the celebrated artist of Cologne, who also built the organ of Nimwegen. The Church of Sta. Maria is new, and built in an elegant antique style, ornamented with painted windows. You may also see in it an excellent painting, by Dürer, representing the dispersion of the Apostles and the death of Maria. St. Martin's Church, or Gross St. Martin, is a large building of the twelfth century, with a striking tower. The Church of St. Gereon and the Thebaic Martyrs, was built by Archbishop Anno, in 1066, on the spot on which the temple built by St. Helena formerly stood. At a later period, a boldly-executed cupola with three galleries was added, and it is one of the best and most conspicuous churches in Cologne. St. Gereon lies buried here, along with his warriors. The skulls of these martyrs are exhibited in the church. In the crypta, or vault, there are two chapels, on whose floor traces of ancient mosaic are visible. The altars at the entrance of the church are adorned with two good paintings by Schuett and Geldorf, artists of Cologne. It should be visited before 9 a.m., 1 mark for 1 to 3 persons. The Church of St. Cunibert, near the Rhine, is spacious, beautiful, and has a fine perspective. The altar is constructed after the pattern of that of St. Peter's at Rome. The gate has a fine frame in the last style of the 12th century. The Tumba of St. Cunibert, which was once so remarkable, was scandalously mutilated during the French occupation. Some years ago the steeple of this church fell down. The fine glass paintings in the choir are well worth seeing. The church of the Apostles near the new market is likewise a beautiful old German building of the eleventh century. An Ascension of the Holy Virgin by Hulsmann, and the martyrdom of St. Catharina by Pottgiesser, deserve to be noticed; as also does the fragment of a lent cloth, woven by Lady Richmod Mengis, of Adocht, to which is annexed the tradition of Richmodis, of the family of the Lisolphskirchen (Lyskirschen), who was buried alive, and by a peculiar accident saved herself from her coffin, and afterwards lived many years with her consort very happily. The Church of Maria Ascension, sometime the church of the Jesuits, though built in a mixed style, half ancient German, and half modern, has many ornaments in the inside, especially a splendid communion pew, with arabesques and bas-reliefs of white marble. There are some paintings by Schuett on the high altar. The walls of the choir are adorned with landscapes. The marble flooring, the pulpit, and the organ are handsome. Contiguous to the church stands the late college of the Jesuits, in which there were a valuable library and rich cabinets of artificial curiosities. The French carried off the most valuable articles; among others, a volume of letters, in Leibnitz's own handwriting, to the Jesuit Brosses; the most valuable minerals; about 1,400 pieces of Greek and Roman coins; a pretty complete collection of silver and copper coins of the middle age; a number of antique bowls, vases, urns, images, &c.; an invaluable collection of more than 6,000 original drawings of the most celebrated artists of all schools; and a similar collection of ancient engravings. There exists a printed catalogue of the latter collection that was sent to Paris, and returned in a very defective state. There are some of the other churches and chapels (not mentioned here) that may have been built at the time when the Christian religion was introduced on the banks of the Rhine, and furnish fine materials for a history of ancient German architecture. Others there are that are remarkable in other respects. In the Church of St. Pantaleon (of 954) there is the tomb of the Empress Theophania, the consort of Emperor Otto II. They also preserve in this church the uncorrupted body of the martyr, Albinus. The body of the famous Duns Scotus, who died at Cologne, in 1308, whose manuscripts, in 14 folio volumes, were in the possession of the Minorites, is buried in the church that formerly belonged to their order. The churches of St. Severin and St. George are very old, but defaced by many coloured paintings. In the former, the spot on which the Emperor Sylvanus was murdered, is marked with marble figures, inserted into the flooring; and, connected with the latter, you behold a tower of énormous thickness, which an Archbishop placed right before the upper and older town gate, to keep in awe the citizens of Cologne, who were disaffected to him. The Lis or Lisoph's Church is remarkable for the ancient tomb of Maternus; the painting of a lateral altar, by John Von Cal.. ear, who learned his art at Cologne, and after wards became a pupil of Titian, has been removed The remains of the famous Albertus Magnus were deposited in the church of the Dominicans, which has been pulled down since. Spacious barracks for the artillery now occupy the ground on which it stood. All the religious corporations in Cologne were secularised by the first revolutionary French government; many parish churches went to decay; others were joined to finer churches, formerly belonging cloisters or other pious foundations; some also were turned into manufactories and magazines, or demolished. The handsome, though plain church of the Antonites, was given to the Lutheran and reformed congregations. Town Hall, or Rathhaus.-It has a fine marble portal, or double arcade, one placed over the other; the upper one being in the Italian-Roman, and the lower one in the Corinthian style. Handsome basreliefs adorn the interstices. The other parts of the buildings are less deserving of praise. From the steeple, the shape of which is rather singular, you have a charming view of the town and its environs. One pair of stairs high, on your right hand, you enter the spacious hall of the once powerful Hansa, with ancient German stone images. The ante-room of the council chamber is adorned with some pictures by Mesquida, representing scenes of the history of Cologne; of the Ambassadors of the Ubians before Cæsar; the Wedding of Agrippina; Emperor Frederick II. granting the stapelright to the town (see p. 82). The council-chamber is ingeniously decorated with a representation of the last judgment, by Soentgens (1695), and a crucifix of the school of Rubens. On the ground floor there is a spacious hall called the muschel (shell), with fine Gobelins tapestry, in which many landscapes by Wouvermann are ingeniously introduced. The whole produces a striking effect. It has a Hall of an enormous size, in which several diets were held. The Emperor Maximilian gave several entertainments in this hall which of late years has served for a ball-room at the conclusion of the splendid carnival. Statues of Bismarck and Moltke. The Theatre. The inner arrangement is tasteful (having the playhouse of the Grand Duke of Darmstadt for a pattern). It was built in 1828. The company act at Cologne only in winter; in summer, alternately at Bonn and Coblenz. The Palace of Justice the foundation of which was laid in 1824. The town has built it at its own expense. It contains the court of appeal, the court of province, and the board of trade. The palace of the regency does not lie far from it. The Archiepiscopal Palace stands in what is called the Zuydwick. The new Schaafenhausen Bank is a handsome building. The site of the old Exchange is occupied by a Statue of the late King Frederick William III., with 16 life-size figures of statesmen and soldiers in the base; the whole 48 feet high. Strangers may further notice the Work and Charity-house, in the later cloister of the Minorities; the Military Hospital, in the cloister of the Carthusians, for 300 patients, in twentyfour roomy saloons; the Hospital for Citizens, in the cloister of Cecilia and Michael, in which 800 poor persons, belonging to the town, are admitted and taken care of, amongst whom are a certain number of incurable lunatics (such as are pronounced curable are sent to Siegburg). This establishment can be visited at any time in the afternoon. The guide expects Trinkgeld, and some contribution must be made to the poor-box. The institution is exceedingly well-arranged, and worth inspection. The Orphan House in the Waisenhausgasse (Orphan Houses Street, No. 38, at the end of the Blaubach), for 200 orphans and foundlings, who are brought up and educated here from 6 to 16 or 17 years of age. A work school has also been established here. The House of Correction (near the New Market, commonly called in der Blechen Buets) can, in 80 small and larger apartments, receive 320 prisoners. The Barracks, in the cloisters of the Dominicans and Observants, in the Weidenbach and the Abbey of St. Pantaleon. In the Sterngasse (Star Street), you see the Jabachische House, in which Catherine 88 BRADSHAW'S HAND-BOOK TO BELGIUM AND THE RHINE. de Médicis resided; Jabach was a great lover of the arts and a collector.-Le Brun had painted him and his family in a large picture. The Gürzenich, in the Martinsstrasse, a fine building erected 1441-52 for civic festivities. The lower portion has been used since 1875 as an Exchange. The Börse is held from 12 to 1 p.m. The handsome Banqueting and other Halls, lately renovated, deserve a visit. Entrance, 50 pf. The Museum, built 1861, in the Gothic style, is situated close to the Cathedral, and contains a very good collection of paintings, the production of a school all but unknown up to the present century; with some Roman antiquities. The House of the Templars, in the Rheingasse, is used as an Exchange. The Casino is close to the Theatre, and has ball and reading rooms attached to it. born In the house No. 10, Struengasse, was Rubens, in 1577; and in it died Mary de Médicis, n 1642. Deutz (Station), across the river, connected with the city by a viaduct 1,352 ft. wide, begun 1855, completed 1862, deserves notice. The Emperor Constantine built a castle here in the fourth century, which is described in ancient documents under the name of Monumentum Dutienza. Deutz and Cologne were at that time connected by a bridge, which was demolished by the Archbishop Bruno in the tenth century, along with the castle The works around Deutz were, at a later period, rebuilt several times, and for the last time de [Route 18. molished by the Austrians in 1673. Since Deutz came into the possession of Prussia, it has been strongly fortified. There are four large workshops of the artillery, that are worth the notice of military men, but admission is not easily granted. The old Benedictine abbey lies on the Rhine, and has a charming aspect. It was founded in 1001, by the elector Heribert, a count of Rothenburg, The little town prospered by carrying on a smuggling trade to the left bank of the Rhine, under the French dominion. Bensberg, the former Palatine chateau, lies 3 leagues from Deutz. It has beautiful allegorical and mythological platforms, painted by eminent masters; the views from the window and the cupola are particularly charming, and the horizon extends to 18 to 20 German miles. A trip from Cologne to the Cistercian abbey of Altenberg will be found interesting. It is 2 leagues distant from it, in the direction beyond Mueheldeim in a beautiful solitary valley, on the banks of the Duehn, a considerable mountain torrent. A pleasant excursion may also be made from Cologne to Bruehl. Express trains from Cologne to Paris, morning and night, in 11 hours. Railway to Düsseldorf, Hamm, Minden, and Berlin; to Paderborn, Cassel, &c.; to Marburg, Giessen, and Frankfort; to Bonn, Coblenz, and Mayence; to Paris, Aix-la-Chapelle, and Belgium. For information respecting the Rhine Steamers see advertisements in Bradshaw's Continental Guide. The description of the journey. from Cologne up the Rhine is continued in Route 21 SECTION II. ТНЕ RHINE. THE RHINE RIVER. There are rivers whose course is longer, and whose volume of water is greater, but none around which are grouped such associations of romance and historical interest, joined to the advantages of natural beauty as the Rhine (ancient, Rhenus). As it flows down from the distant ridges of the Alps, through fertile regions into the open sea, so it comes down from remote antiquity, associated in every age with momentous events, in the history of the neighbouring nations. It is formed in the Swiss Canton of Grisons, by the junction, at Reichenau, of two streams called the Hinter and Vorder Rhein; the former having its source in the Rheinwald glacier, the latter rising on the north side of Mont St. Gothard. After passing Mayenfeld the river enters Lake Constance (also called the Boden-see) at Rheineck. It again leaves the lake at Stein, which stands at its western extremity. It then flows past Schaffhausen, where it produces the celebrated cataract called the Falls of Schaffhausen. After passing Basle, where the Upper Rhine terminates, it flows past Breisach, Strassburg, Speyer, Mannheim, Worms, Mayence, Coblentz, Bonn, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Wesel, and Emmerich, where it enters the Netherlands, and reaches the North Sea by several mouths-the Waal to Rotterdam; the Yssel, to the Zuyder Zee; the Old Rhine, to Leyden. In its course it passes through the following territories, viz.:-Switzerland, Baden, Bavaria, HesseDarmstadt, Prussia, and Holland. Its principal affluents on the right bank are the Kinzig, the Neckar, the Main, the Lahn, the Ruhr, and the Lippe; and on the left the Thur, the Aare, the Ill, and the Moselle. From the source to the mouth, allowing for windings, the distance is 600 miles; the direct distance is about 360 miles. Vessels of from 300 to 450 tons go up the river to Cologne; those of 125 to 200 to Mayence; and those of 100 to 125 as far as Strassburg. It is navigable by steamers from Rotterdam to Basle, but at present steamers only run as far as Mannheim. The beauties of the river lie between Remagen (a little beyond Bonn) and Bingen, on this side of Mayence. The finest part of the river is, without doubt, that between Coblentz and Bingen. It was frɩ zen over at Mayence and at the Ruhr, 1879. Passports are still occasionally demanded in Prussia, Bavaria, and other parts of Germany, especially at fortified towns; but the vise is unnecessary, except in Austria. The passport is likewise of use in cases of identification, and perhaps, sometimes, for admission into public buildings, and the traveller is advised never to be without one. A Foreign Office passport is always desirable, and may be obtained at a trifling cost. Innkeepers are bound to submit the names, professions, age, religion, and motives for travelling, &c., of all the visitors who may arrive at or depart from their hotels. And the better to ensure attention to this rule, a strangers' book, called "das Fremden Buch," is kept at each hotel, in which the traveller is requested to enter all the necessary particulars. Money.-1 German mark (or 100 pfennige) = 1s. = 1 franc = 60 Dutch cents. 24 American cents. A Thaler 2s. 11d.; Dutch or Austrian Florin 1s. 8d. Wines.-The best wines of the Rheingau are those called Johannisberger, Steinberger, Rüdesheimer, Assmannshauser, Marcobrunner, Gräfenberger, Hochheimer, Geisenheimer, Hattenheimer, Rauenthaler, Winkel, and Bodenthaler; those of Rhenish Bavaria are Ruppertsberger, Deidesheimer, Forst, and Königsbacher. Those of Rhenish Prussia include Engehöller and Steeg; those of Rhenish Hesse, Scharlachberger, Niersteiner, Laubenheimer, and Liebfrauenmilch. The valley of the Ahr gives Ahrbleichert and Walporzheimer; and at Ehrenbreitstein is a good wine called Kreuzberger. Of the Moselle wines the best are Braunberger and Pisporter. Inns.-In Germany the innkeepers are of a superior class in life, and generally of obliging and kind manners. They preside at their own tables d'hôte, and their conversation is almost invariably intelligent and agreeable. Travellers intending to remain a week or longer at an hotel, should make an agreement beforehand with the landlord, who will generally abate one-third of the charge. Table d'hôte tickets can also be purchased much cheaper when taken by the score or dozen. In Germany, apartments in hotels are charged for according to size, accommodation, and the storey in which they are situated. (AVERAGE CHARGES MADE AT HOTELS IN GERMANY). MARKS. Bed-rooms, varying according to size and situation, from......................................................1 to 24 Dinner at table d'hôte The average expenses of a party, say of six, would be considerably less. 3 2 1 1 1 Table d'Hôte.-Hours of Dining 1 o'clock; in Germany 2 or 3 o'clock, and in Southern Germany as early as 12 o'clock. Supper is a family meal in Germany. Travellers on the Rhine should ask for Maitrank or Maibowle, a delicious spiced wine in great vogue during May. Steamers. The fares on board the Rhine Steamers have been raised; it is cheaper to travel by rai than by boat; but certainly the river is better seen from the banks than from the steamer. London to the Rhine, via Rotterdam. The Packets from London are now mostly new vessels of a very superior class, combining great speed-absence of vibration-and unexceptionable accommodation for passengers, including private state cabins for families. Places can be taken at the London offices of the companies from London for any towns on the Rhine, as far as Basle, at very moderate fares; and in booking throughout passengers have the advantage of being permitted to stop at any place they please on the Rhine, and of proceeding on their journey without the least additional charge. Tickets direct for the undermentioned places on the Rhine, via Rotterdam, by the steamers of the Lower and Middle Rhine Company, can be obtained at the Company's Offices at moderate rates: To Düsseldorf, Cologne, Bonn, Neuwied, Cob lenz, Bingen, Bieberich or Mayence, Mannheim, Heidelberg, Bruchsal, Carlsruhe, Baden, Basle, Waldshut. Passengers booked also to places as under, við the Dutch-Rhenish Railway Company:-From London to Amsterdam, or Düsseldorf, chief cabin and first-class, or fore cabin and second-class, at moderate rates. London to Rotterdam, vià Harwich.By Great Eastern Railway, via Harwich, (Parkeston Quay). The Boat Express leaves London, Liverpool Street Station, at 8 p.m., and Doncaster at 4-48 every week-day, in connection with Express Trains from Manchester, the North of England, and Scotland. Fares, first-class and saloon, 26s.; second class and fore cabin, 15s. Return tickets, 40.; 24s. See Bradshaw's Continental Guide. London to Rotterdam.-By Netherland Steam Boat Company's Steamers Holland, Fyenoord, |