Page images

replied that if the King of Fralice and the Duke Inn:- Le Mont d'Or. fell into their hands they would roast their hearts A small but prettily situated town, on the right and livers for breakfast. The treaty of Ryswick bank of the Meuse, opposite Charlemont, with gave Dinant to the Prince-Bishop. Attacked and

which it is connected by a bridge. Here is the taken during the first French revolution, it be

French douane. Both places belong to France, came the chief town of a French department, and

Givet has a population of about 6,400, and is a so remained until 1813, when it was retaken by fortress. The fortifications of Charlemont stand the allies, and definitely joined to the royalty of

on the left bank, on a rock of limestone. There the Netherlands, together with the ancient dis

is a statue to Mehul, the composer.

Rail to trict of Liége.

Mézières, Marienburg, Morialmé, Charleroi, &c. The church of Notre Dame is a massive structure, of a cruciform shape, built in the Gothic

ROUTE 17. style. It contains nothing particularly interesting, Landen to St. Trond, Hasselt, Maestricht, and is only remarkable for the style of its archi

Aix-la-Chapelle, and Cologne. tecture and a tower 210 feet high.

Leaving Landen (Station)-Route 18--the railExcursions from Dinant to the Grotto of Hans

road passes Attenhoven, a commune of 700 inhabisur-Lesse, Castle of Montaigle, Château de Wab.

tants, and soon after leaves the province of Liége, zins, and to Châteaux, a group of hovels.

and enters that of Limburg, and shortly arrives at Above Dinant the line leads us through a

Velm (Station), in a commune of Limburg, in species of natural portal, abruptly terminated by

the district of Hasselt, crossed by a Roman causea wall of rock shot out from the precipitous way. cliffs on the left, and on the right by the Roche

St. Trond (Station), near the chief place of a à Bayard, an isolated mass of rock; close by here

canton of the district of Hasselt, in the province of quarries of black marble are to be found; also Limburg, situated upon the Cicindria. There are immediately above is the pretty little town of

eleven Churches, the best situated in a vast ANSEREMME. The valley is very picturesque, and

square; in which is likewise a Town Hall, worthy well deserves to be explored. At this spot, the of notice. The manufacture of lace is the principal · Lesse falls into the Meuse.

occupation of the inhabitants. Population, 12,000. The road now begins to ascend, and at 3

Cortenbosch (Station) and Alken (Station) miles above Dinant is the Château of Freyer,

followed by situated at the base of luxuriantly-clothed hills,

Hasselt (Station). Hotel: De Limbourg. Capion the left bank of the river. It is a country seat tal of Belgian Limbourg. Population, 10,900. Here of the Duchess of Beaufort-Fontin, and has the Belgians were defeated, August, 1831. Its two within its grounds a beautiful grotto. Opposite good Churches, containing many pictures and good here the scenery is very picturesque. Forms and

carving, are worth visiting. rail to Utrecht and outlines of the most singular caste and character

Amsterdam via Eindhoven, Boxtel, and Bois-leare shadowed forth by the broken masses of lime- Duc. Past Munsterbilsen (Station) to stone, rising like so many giants out of the Meuse. Maastricht (Station), in Holland. Population, As far as Flamignoul the scenery partakes of 29,210. quite a romantic aspect. Passing by Heer we are Hotels: Du Casque; Du Levrier (Greyhound). attracted by a red marble quarry, and as we The capital of Dutch Limburg, on the Meuse, approach the top of the hill our road is enlivened Maas, or Maes, from which, and the old Roman by chaste and beautiful scenery, until we ascend ferry, or trajectum, it derives its name.

It has a the top, from which we have a magnificent view of strong fortress (taken after a long siege by the Givet on French territory. The Stations of Spaniards 1579) and a six-arch bridge to the suburb Hastière and Agimont are passed; then comes of Wyck., The Town Hall (1664), in the Market Givet (Station),

Place, is a handsome building. The Collegiate

Church of St. Servais is a fine edifice with 5 towers a holiday, and the people were dancing under the and a splendid portal; the square in which this trees. Van Dyck delayed, and danced with the church stands was the spot where William de la most beautiful girl in the village, and before the Marck was beheaded, in 1485. Notre Dame has a ball was over, found himself deeply in love with

her. good tower; St. John (Protestant) has a tower

He was then twenty-four years of age and lantern 180 feet high. The most remarkable Rome was forgotten. Days, weeks, and months things near Maastricht, are the subterranean rolled by; his money was all gone. Van Dyck's Quarries, under the hill called the Pietersberg; they passion being now calmed, and his resources wind in and out for 10 to 12 miles; and can only be exhausted, he found that his interest and fame safely visited with an experienced guide.

called him to Rome; but what was he to do, not For Meerssen, Faquemont, &c., to Aix-la- having a florin to take him there. Happily his

courage sustained him. He presented himself to Chapelle (Station), see Route 18.

the curé, and proposed to paint an altar-piece for ROUTE 18.

his church. The subject was agreed on, and the

price fixed at 100 florins. The painting was Brussels to Cologne, by Louvain, Liége, finished in five days. Van Dyck himself and his and Aix-la-Chapelle.

horse served as models for the horse and saint, Brussels (Station), see Route 6. The rail and the beadle of the church for the poor man quits the Rue Neuve, traverses the Senne, and The curé was, by chance, a judge of painting; rejoins the old line of railway leading to the he paid the demand without murmuring, and station d'Allée Verte. To the left we see the

Van Dyck set out for Rome. This circumstance proRoyal Palace of Laeken, on a height, from which

vided the poor village church with a chef d'ouvre. by far the best and most comprehensive view of This picture was a reproduction of Rubens' picBrussels is obtained.

ture. It was stolen by the French, and given The Château of Laeken dates no further back back in 1817. Van Dyck also painted another picthan 1782. It was built after a design of the ture for this church, the Holy Family, in which Archduke Charles Albert, Governor of the Nether- he introduced the portrait of Anna van Ophen, the lands, and is erected in a charming position. The girl of whom he was enamoured. park surrounding it contains an orangery, a theatre,

This is the only station of interest between pavilions, and beautiful trees. It was in this

Brussels and Louvain, which is reached after château that Napoleon signed the celebrated de

passing through Cortenbergh, Velthem, and Herent. claration of war against Russia. The palace is

The scenery is thoroughly Dutch in character, now the property of the crown, and favourite residence of the Royal Family (see page 16).

LOUVAIN (Station); Leuven, in Flemish The first station passed is Schaerbeek, where the

Löwen, in German. Population (1882), 36,370. line to Malines diverges. Next Dieghem, and then

Hotels: De Suède, good; de la Cour de Mons Saventhem (Station), 12 miles from Brussels,

Resident English Vice-Consul. a commune of the district of Brussels, with 1,200

A large, irregularly-built town, of a circular inhabitants. The Church will well repay a visit

form, situated on the Dyle, which passes through it to the amateur in painting, who will see there a

Population, 34,440. Facing the station is a pedestal magnificent picture by Van Dyck, representing St.

Statue of Van de Weyer, the statesman, 36 feet Martin on his horse, giving a portion of his cloak high, which was uncovered by the King, 1876 to à poor man. The history of this painting is

The foundation of Louvain has been attriinteresting, and deserves relating:-

buted to Cæsar; but nothing certain is known Van Dyck, on his way to bid farewell to his of the history of the place until the year 888, when illustrious master, previous to bis departure for the Emperor Arnold, in order to protect the country Rome, was mounted on a superb horse, a gift from the predatory incursions of the Normans, from Rubens, and passed by Saventhem. It was built in the place of Louvain a castle, which has



been long improperly called Château Cesar The principal productions of Louvain (Cæsar's Castle). The Dukes of Brabant resided woollen stuffs and dimities, with the various articles many years in the castle, and Henry, the first proceeding from the salt-works, sugar refineries, Count of Louvain, was assassinated there in 1308. manufactories of potash and starch, bottle works, It was rebuilt at the expense of the magistrates in window-glass manufactories, potteries, brandy and 1375, and was the winter residence of Edward III. gin distilleries, and establishments for extracting of England, and his Queen, in 1485. At a later oil from rape-seed and colza. There are also a period it was selected as the place of abode of the number of cotton-printing establishments and illustrious Charles V. during his youth. The ruins several printing offices. The White Beer of Louvain of the castle are still remaining. Till the year is in great repute, and exported to all parts of 1792, when the revolutionary troops, under General Belgium; besides which, another kind of malt Kleber, made themselves masters of the town, liquor, called peterman, is the common table beer Louvain could boast of never having been taken of the higher classes. The town comprises upby an enemy, though it had been repeatedly wards of forty breweries, producing, annually, besieged during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and above 200,000 barrels of malt liquor. eighteenth centuries.

The Hôtel de Ville, is one of the most perfoct In the beginning of the fourteenth century specimen of its kind, of Gothic architecture extant, Louvain was a large, populous, and rich city, in and the innumerable carved figures which enrich which the manufacture of woollen stuffs was so the front exhibit indubitable traces, notwithstandconsiderable, that in 1317 it reckoned 4,000 es- ing the ravages of time, of exquisite workmanship. tablishments connected with the cloth trade alone, It was built in 1439. In the council chamber are some and contained 150,000 inhabitants. During the paintings by Verhaegen, and the Continence of reign of Duke Wenceslaus however, and about Scipio, by Luca Giordano; and in the Grand Saloon the year 1370, a tumult arose in the town, in is a collection comprising the Resurrection, by consequence of the arbitrary punishment of a Rubens Jesus, Mary, and Joseph, by Crayer; and citizen, after he had been judicially acquitted of a portrait of Lipsius, by Van Dyck. a petty theft of which he was accused. A number The Cathedral Church of St. Peter, a beautiful of cloth manufacturers took part in this tumult, edifice, was built under Count Lambert Balderic, and on its suppression were banished from the about the year 1010, and was formerly surmounted town. These ingenious workmen retired to Eng- | by a spire of the extraordinary height of 533 feet; land, drawing after them many of their relations considered by the people of Louvain as the eigbth and friends; and so rapidly did the town decrease wonder of the world; but, unfortunately, this bold in population from that period, that in less than and justly admired specimen of steeple building forty years Louvain presented all the appearances was levelled with the ground, by a violent storm of a vast deserted city. To remedy the evil, John, of wind, in 1601. The interior of this church the fifth Duke of Brabant, founded in 1246, a contains much to attract the attention, particularly University, which afterwards became one of the a fine allegorical subject, representing Faith, most celebrated in Europe. It was suppressed by Hope, and Charity, by Crayer, which is in the the French in 1793, and the building converted into Chapel of the Trinity, and the Holy Family, by an hospital for invalids. It was, however, re- Quentin Matsys, in that of St. Anne. The iron established, under the late government, in 1817, in screen,

curiously wrought in one piece, is by the former Halles of the cloth workers; a Goemans, and the iron lustre by Quentin Matsys. large building of great simplicity, erected at The Crucifixion, by Van Dyck, which adorns the the close of the last century. There are 17 pro- altar of St. Julien, is remarkable for the artist's fessors and about 500 students.

The library

introduction of a number of winged boys, who are contains about 40,000 volumes, and the university stationed with a cup at the foot of the cross, to also possesses a botanical garden and a tolerably catch the blood of our Saviour. The Last Supper, good museum of zoology and mineralogy.

and the Martyrdom of $t. Erasmus, by Thierry

[graphic][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][subsumed][ocr errors][subsumed][ocr errors][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][ocr errors][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed]
[ocr errors][ocr errors]
« PreviousContinue »