land all round is low, and the waters have to be regulated by sluices. It sustained a memorable siege of 3 years' duration, between 1601 and 1604; when 50,000 of the besieged, and 70,000 of the Spaniards who besieged it, under General Spinola, fell; and the town was reduced to a heap of ruins. Philip II.'s daughter had vowed she would not change her chemise till Ostend was taken; and its colour by the time the place was captured gave name to the "Isabel yellow." It was ceded in 1715 to the Emperor of Germany. Louis XV. entered it in 1745, after a siege of 18 days, which all but completed its destruction. It has a College of Navigation. The oyster parks outside the Bruges Gate ought to be visited. The old town, of poor appearance, contains, however, two good squares, or, as they are more properly called, places. The Maison de Ville makes the entire side of one of them. It was nearly ruined by the bombardment of 1745. The body of the town-house still subsists, but of its dome and two beautiful towers there only remains the stump of one of them, surmounted by a wooden cupola. The Church has no claim to architectural merit, but the inside is richly ornamented. It has a lofty octangular steeple, with a very clumsy spire, affording, however, an excellent sea-mark. The old walls are now converted into promenades. Of late years very considerable additions have been made to the town, and it now possesses all the attractions of the best continental sea-side resorts, There is a handsome new Kursaal, with a Restaurant attached, bands playing constantly, and a beautiful Casino has been built, so that with races, regattas, pic-nics, and excursions, there is plenty to occupy the visitor. The sands are excellent. Ostend is a healthy watering-place, and is much frequented in the months of August and September. There are many bathing machines on the fine beach; and near the sea, on the Digue, a bathing house has been established. The Digue runs in a S.W. direction along the shore for about 3 miles, and at its northern extremity is the New Summer Palace of the King. There is a considerable trade in codfish, and the celebrated oysters are sent in large quantities to France. Steamers of the General Steam Navigation Company, for London, two or three times a-week, in about 10 hours. Mail packets twice daily, to Dover, in 4 to 5 hours (see Bradshaw's Continental Guide). A direct rail (the West Flanders) is opened to Thourout, Courtray, &c. Ostend to Bruges.-(Distance, 14 English miles.) The railway, on leaving Ostend, proceeds through a country presenting no very remarkable appearance, being rich in an agricultural point of view, but flat and undiversified in its general appearance. Plasschendael (Station). A commune with a population of 1,60), situated a little to the right of the railway. It possesses no object of interest save its ancient château. The Dunkirk and Ostend canals join here. Past Jabbeke to BRUGES (Station)-Flemish, Bruggen, Germ. Brügge, or Bridges, of which there are about £0. Hotels: Hotel du Commerce; a first-rate old established house, enjoying an excellent reputation. Hotel de Flandre; an old established house. Hotel de l'Univers; de l'Ours d'or. English Church Service, Rue d'Ostende. Sundays at 11 and 3-30 winter; summer, 11 and 7. Population 45,000. The railway station at Bruges is in the Vrydags Markt, or Friday's Market. The West Flanders Railway is now open to Courtray, making a direct railway from Ostend and Bruges to Paris, via Lille, Amiens, &c. It is 23 miles shorter than by Ghent A railway runs to Blankenberg. On leaving Ostend it is a very general custom for travellers going to Germany to take a railway ticket for the whole distance to Cologne, for the purpose of reaching the Rhine with the least possible delay. In doing so, they deprive themselves of the opportunity of visiting the cities in Belgium, which possess more objects of interest to the lover of the fine arts, more pure and perfect specimens of florid Gothic architecture, a richer collection of rare and beautiful paintings, by the old Flemish masters, than can probably be found in the whole of Germany. If, instead of thus hurrying in hothaste through a country which presents so many points of interest to travellers in general, and to Englishmen in particular, our country men were to devote a part of their time to Belgium, they would never regret becoming acquainted with its peculi 'arities, fine old cities, glorious monuments, arts and sciences, the people, and their institutions. Bruges occupies a prominent place in the history of Flanders; the traveller will find this town especially worthy of notice-not that it presents the aspect of a populous modern city, but because it has preserved the peculiarities which distinguished its appearance during the middle ages, when it was a great Hanse town, the emporium of European commerce, the residence of merchant princes, and when its population exceeded 200,000. The mailed warrior and the gloved citizen meet no more upon the fortifications, the commerce which animated its quays and canals is dispersed over Europe, its merchants are no longer opulent as princes, the city is no longer the capital of West Flanders. Yet, though these things have passed away, we cannot infer that it was in vain that this town attained to such a remarkable point of grandeur and importance in the 15th and 16th centuries. The characteristic intrepidity, activity, and proverbial turbulence of its artizans, the inflexible will and sturdiness of its burghers, the associations of its merchants and traders, which led to that interchange of opinion, that communion and unity of sentiment so fatal to despotism and feudal oppression, created and fostered that honest love of individual liberty, that regard and attachment for corporative and communal privileges, for which the men of Ghent and Bruges struggled during several centuries. This deep attachment to local institutions has been merged into that of national patriotism, and if the traveller, in conversing with an intelligent inhabitant of Bruges, deplores its depopulated streets, he will be told that if Bruges is not the great and important city it was formerly, it has still much to be thankful for; its citizens, instead of being at continual variance with their sovereign, or the neighbouring towns, are now members of an independent kiugdom, governed by a prince of their own choice, with one of the most liberal constitutions in the world-that Bruges is no longer isolated in its splendour and solitude, but that it forms a component part of the nation, and anticipates a return of comparative prosperity. BRUGES is situate in a spacious and beautiful plain, about 6 miles from the sea. It is intersected by a great number of canals, and is, indeed, the central point at which all the canals of the province meet. Its fine old houses and once busy quays are decaying; while the canals are neglected. Much property is in the hands of the rich convents, and the people are spiritless. On fête days the fine old city wears a gay and animated appearance. The beauty of the women of Bruges is of ancient repute, but the present generation scarcely justify the proverb, "Formosis Bruga puellis." When they are seen enveloped in the mantilla of Spanish origin, their brunette complexions and dark eyes render them most picturesque and pleasing objects among the many splendid and exquisite specimens of architecture with which their dwellings are adorned and embellished. "Fair city, worthy of her ancient fame The season of her splendour is gone by; Wide squares and streets, with many a court and hall. "Spacious and undefaced, but ancient all. When Imry read of tilts, in days of old, Of tournays, graced by chieftains of renown, Fair dames, grave citizens, and warriors bold, If fancy could portray some stately town, Which of such pomp fit theatie might be, Fair Bruges, I shall then remember thee."-SOUTHEY. Bruges contains very many objects of interest which will require a day at least to visit. The Cathedral (St. Sauveur). This beautiful church was founded in the seventh century by St. Eloy, and was greatly indebted for its erection to the liberality of Dagobert, the then King of France. It was entirely consumed by fire in 1358, but was again erected, upon a more magnificent scale, on the same spot, the charitable subscriptions of the faithful defraying the cost. The spire is 470 feet high. It is built of brick, and in its external appearance presents nothing remarkable or attractive, but its interior is admirable. The paintings are worth notice because of their antiquity, and representing contributions to the history of Flemish art. Immediately under the grand entrance are several works by J. Van Oost; "The Baptism of Christ," "Christ on the Cross," and "Jesus leaving his Mother to ascend Calvary" being the principal. A small picture, with shutters, hangs at the south side of the aisle, representing the Martyrdom of St. Sylvester, by Hans Hemling or Memling. There is likewise an excellent painting of the Last Supper, with Abraham and Elijah in the centre and at the side, by Peter Porbus. On either side of the altar is a black and white marble tomb. The choir is adorned with tapestry, executed by Vanderborght, along which are suspended the arms of chevaliers of Che order of the Toison d'Or, presents from a chapter of that order, placed in the church by Philip the Good, who founded the order 1430, on the day of his marriage to Isabella of Portugal, and to whose memory a tomb is erected in one of the chapels. In the north aisle of the chapel of the Cordonnie are several monumental brasses, built into the wall, which may be looked upon as interesting specimens of early Flemish art, in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Notre Dame is a church no way remarkable for its architecture, surmounted by a tower and stunted spire, 435 feet high. The most precious ornament of Notre Dame is a statue of the Virgin and Child, said to be by Michael Angelo. If it be surprising to find a work by this great man in Belgium, here is the explanation. The work was executed for Genoa, and the vessel in which it was being conveyed was taken by a Dutch pirate, who brought it to Amsterdam, where a Bruges merchant bought it and presented it to this church. Horace Walpole offered, in vain, 30,000 florins for it. There are many very excellent paintings in the church, the principal of which are the Adoration of the Magi, by Seghers; the Adoration of the Shepherds, by De Crayer; an Infant Jesus, by Jacques Van Oost; St. Anthony of Padua, a Virgin and Child, by Van Dyck, and the Marriage of St. Catherine of Siena. The Tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, and of his daughter, Mary, wife of the Emperor Maximilian, are to be seen in the south aisle of the choir. These were the last native sovereigns of the Netherlands. Mary of Burgundy died on the 27th of March, 1452; and Charles was killed at the battle of Nancy, in 1477. The monument of the Duchess was erected in 1495. In 1558 Philip II. paid Master Iongehlinck the sum of 14,000 florins for the execution of one similar to that of the Duchess, for his grandfather, Charles the Bold. The effigies of both are made of copper, richly gilt, and repose at full length on slabs of black marble. Beneath and around the slabs are coats of arms richly enamelled. They have lately been re-gilt and cleaned. They are shown to the public only on days of great solemnity, but strangers can easily obtain access to see them on other occasions by a small payment. Visitors will be well repaid by visits to the churches of St. Giles, Jacques, Walburge, Anne, &c. The Church of Jerusalem is the fruit of a vow made by a pious merchant of Bruges, who, when in the Holy City, promised to build in his native town, if ever he returned to it in safety, a temple, on the model of that of Jerusalem, with an exact representation of the tomb of our Saviour. The church also contains some fine specimens of coloured glass. In the Church of St. Salvador are the Seven Acts of Mercy, by Van Dyke; the Resurrection, by Van Os; the Martyrdom of St. Barbara, by Cels; and numerous other pictures. The Church of St. Anna is remarkable for its fine specimens of carving; the pictures are not of striking merit. Church of St. Basil, or of the Holy Blood, is situated opposite the Town Hall. A beautiful Gothic façade will attract notice. It is called La petite Eglise de Saint Basil, and tradition says that some drops of our Saviour's blood, brought by Count Thierry, of Alsace, from the Holy Land, are now deposited in a richly jewelled and enamelled shrine of gilt silver. This is shewn in the Upper Chapel, the shrine being exposed on every Wednesday to the veneration of the faithful. In this chapel are some beautiful paintings, and a pulpit, with medallions carved in wood. Fifty cents are charged for admission. Hospital of St. John, which is close to Notre Dame; entrance, fifty cents. The period of its foundation is unknown. It is only known that in 1188 the governor prescribed many rules to the religious brothers and sisters of the house. It originally only received Magdalenes into it, but now persons of every description are received and attended by the sisters. This institution is celebrated for possessing several beautiful pictures, painted by Hans Hemling, or Memling, so remarkable for purity of colouring and brightness of tone, that the most indifferent spectator will find himself an admirer of their prominent beauties. In the Chapter House are hung the portraits of some of the directors and superiors of the establishment, the celebrated York. The Story of Susannah is represented on the marble bas-reliefs decorating it. It suffered from fire 1878. paintings-the pride of the city and admiration of | Maximilian, Charles the Bold, and Marguerite of travellers-by Hans Hemling, presented by him to the hospital, as a mark of his gratitude for the kindness with which he was treated when a patient there. The other objects are the Virgin and Child, the Marriage of St. Catherine, the Decapitation of St. John the Baptist, and St. John the Evangelist at Patmos, with a Crucifixion by Franks, and a Holy Family by Vandyck. The Belegary, or Chasse de St. Ursula, is worth notice, consisting of a wooden coffer, painted by Hemling, in which is the arm of the saint. The sides are painted with representations of St. Ursula's pilgrimages and martyrdom. The history of these paintings is singular and merits a short notice. Hemling was a dissipated character at Bruges. and became a soldier. He was not known as a painter when a wound, received in 1477 at the battle of Nancy, compelled him to enter the hospital as a patient. His wound was healed in a short time, but he so well liked the mode of life, &c., of the hospital. that he remained in it for 6 years, and paid his expenses by painting these pictures. The Hôtel de Ville is a beautiful Gothic monument, well preserved, founded in 1377, by Count Louis de Maele. It was formerly surmounted by six beautiful towers. The niches seen in front contained 33 statues of the Counts of Flanders, the designs of which are preserved in the beautiful work of M. Delpuire-The Annals of Bruges. Today these niches are empty. In 1792, the troops of the French revolution caused the statues to be destroyed as "images of tyrants." They were burnt in the Grand Square in a bonfire, the materials of which were composed of the gallows, scaffold, and the wheel. In the Grand Hall of the building is the public library containing 15,000 volumes and 500 MSS. The staircase of the Hotel deserves notice, and also the paintings adorning it. Palais de Justice is close to the Hôtel de Ville, and was formerly the residence of the Counts of Flanders, and was anciently called Palais du Franc de Bruges-the Palace of the Liberty of Brugesa large district independent of the city. The interior contains little remarkable save the council chamber of the magistrates and the magnificent himney or mantel-piece. It is carved in wood, a chef-d'œuvre of sculpture in its way, ing statues of Charles V., Mary of Burgundy, Tour des Halles, or Market Tower.-In the Grand Square, or market-place, is held the annual fair, commencing 4th May, and lasting 15 days. There are also two horse fairs, of two days each, held the first Thursday after Easter, and the 25th July. The meat market in this square is exquisitely neat and well arranged. At the extremity of the square is a steeple or belfry, the "Belfry of Bruges," "old and brown;" celebrated in Longfellow's poem, and also in his "Carillon." It is 320 feet high, and is esteemed one of the most beautiful in Belgium; the ascent to it is by 533 steps, and it contains a set of chimes, worked every quarter of an hour by an immense cylinder, like an organ barrel setting in motion the keys of the instrument. Near this Belfry is the building formerly occupied as the Drapers' hall, or Domus Anglorum, of which Caxton, a mercer, was governor, 1463-9; it is now divided into two coffee-houses, and contains a fine vaulted saloon, in which the National Society of Literature hold their meetings. At Bruges. Caxton printed his first English books-the History of Troy, 1471, and Game of Chess, 1474. C. Mansion printed his Boccaccio, 1476. Opposite to this building, at the corners of Rue St..Arnaud, were two old houses; one of which was the residence of the Emperor Charles, and of Charles II. of England, during his exile, when he used to shoot here. The burghers of Bruges elected him Roi des Arbaletriers, King of the Cross-bowmen. This house has been cleared away for a Normal School; and its neighbour, the Hall of St. Barbara, is now replaced by an English Seminary, founded by the late Sir John Sutton. The Covered Fish Market, with its granite columns, is a handsome building, lately erected. In the opposite corner of the Rue St. Arnaud is the site of the Craenenberg, traditionally interesting as being the prison of Maximilian in 1487-8. Near the Rue Noordzand is the Prinssenhof; in which Marguerite of York, sister to Edward IV., was married, in 1468, to Charles the Bold. The Academy of Painting is in the building known as Het Poorters Huis, formerly the factory of the Biscayens, and contains some very fine old | (Station), supplying a commune of the district paintings, by J. Van Eyck, Hans Hemling, Pourbus, and Claessens. The principal manufactures of Bruges are lace, woollen stuffs, camlets, hats, snuff, china, carpets, ticking, dimities, and a blue dye which is peculiar to the town. The lace-workers are said to exceed 5,000 in number. There are also numerous salt and sugar of Ghent, with a population of 5,400 inhabitants, it is seen to the right of the canal. The road from here passes for some minutes through a cutting, and emerging thence commands a view of Bellem and Hansbeke; the former a village of 1.700 inhabitants, the latter one with 2,800. railway crosses the Canal de Nevile, which joins. the canal from Ghent to Bruges, and arrives at The refineries, rope walks, dyeing-houses, breweries, Landeghem (Station), a commune of the distilleries, and bleaching grounds. Bruges also contains a Museum, with a tolerable collection of pictures; a public library, and a botanic garden, a theatre, an academy of fine arts, and several literary and scientific societies. The tract of country surrounding Bruges, for 25 miles, was formerly called the Free Country of Bruges, from the circumstance of the inhabitants having succeeded in throwing off the yoke of both the rival cities of Bruges and Ghent, and obtaining from the Counts of Flanders numerous exclusive privileges, amongst which were those of separate magistrates and tribunals. The high state of cultivation into which this province has been brought by the unremitting exertions of the inhabitants, cannot be too much admired. The southern districts are fertile in flax and rape-seed. A railway runs to the watering places of Blankenberg and Heyst, near the island of Cadzand, and the Dyke which Dante commemorates in his Inferno as raised by the Flemings, "tra Gazzante è Bruggia" (between Cadzand and Bruges), to keep out the sea. Blankenberg is a growing bathing place, with a population of 2,000. Bruges to Ghent by the direct line. (There is a loop via Eecloo).-Quitting the station at Bruges, the railway is carried a little to the south side of the canal, and passing to the right Oostcamp (Station), it runs through a country no ways interesting, and arrives at Bloemendael (Station), near a little village containing 3,150 inhabitants, and watered by the Splenterbeck, which flows into the canal. Shortly after leaving this station, the road winds to the left a little distance from the canal from Ghent to Bruges, and entering the district of the commune of St. George, it quits West and enters East Flanders. Shortly after arriving at Aeltre district of Ghent, with a population of 2,000 souls. Leaving here we cross the Lys by a bridge, and arrive at Ghent. A description of Ghent will be found at page 7. Ghent Station is on the south-east side of the town. On the high ground to the left, at the other side of the Scheldt, is the new citadel. The church of St. Pierre is seen on the other side of the hill. The Grand Canal between Bruges and Ghent is bounded by high banks, and lined with tall trees, and varied by pretty villas and sweet gardens. Ghent to Brussels. The line which runs from Gand by Meirelbeke, Melle, Quatrecht, via Wetteren, and Denderleeuwe does not present any special features of interest. For description of Melle and Wetteren see page 13. At Wetteren the line to Malines is quitted, and the direct line to Brussels continues through Schellebelle, Lede, Alost (for descripsee page 13), Erembodeghem, Denderleeuwe, Ternath, and some other stations of no importance to Laeken (for description see page 16) and Brussels. tion ROUTE 4. London to Antwerp by the Scheldt By the Great Eastern Railway, viâ Harwich (Parkeston Quay), the Boat Express leaves London, Liverpool Street Station, at 8-0 p.m., and Doncaster at 4-48 p.m., in connection with Express Trains from Manchester and the North of England and Scotland every week day. See Bradshaw's Continental Guid The direct route from London to Antwerp, viâ the Thames and the Scheldt, is very pleasant for those who like a sea voyage. Distance, 210 miles. Steamers of the General Steam Navigation Co. every Tuesday and Saturday. The "Baron Osy," every Sunday. |