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resources and virtues of these justly celebrated waters, should read the "Observations on the Mineral Waters of Homburg," by F. H. Prytherch, M.D. (John Churchill, London; Louis Schick, Homburg). It is well laid out; good water supplied from the hills.

Homburg contains perhaps the most magnificent Kursaal in Germany; 540 feet long by 256 feet broad. From the gaming table (now suppressed) of this establishment the state of Hesse Homburg formerly derived its chief revenue. It has a dining hall, coffee rooms, reading and smoking rooms, with a fine band, which plays daily on the walk. Annual subscription, 12 marks.

Its only object of attraction is the Palace of the Prince of Hesse Homburg. In it is a large collec. tion of Roman antiquities, and over the inner gateway is an equestrian statue of Prince Frederick of Hesse. The daughter of George III., the late Landgravine Elizabeth, had the gardens attached to the Palace nicely laid out in the English style; entrance free. They contain an orangery, cedars of Lebanon, and a grotto. A succession of flower gardens and shrubberies stretch along between these gardens and the base of the Taunus, affording to the promenader a magnificent walk, and leading him to an eminence commanding a rich view of the surrounding country. Trinkgeld, 50 pf.

A visit can be paid from here to the Nauheim Salt Works, distance about 8 or 9 miles northcast of Homburg. For excursion in the Taunus, see Route 27.

English Church Service, every Sunday, at the new Church, near the station.

Curtaxe-After 5 days' residence, 1 person, 12 marks; 2 persons, 20 marks; 3 and 4 persons, 25 marks; over 4 persons, 30 marks.

ROUTE 24.

Bingen to Mayence-by rail or road. Distance by rail, 20 English miles. The rail along the south bank passes Ingelheim, Budenheim, &c. There are also two roads, one, the most interesting, along the left bank, and another on the left bank, remote from the side of the river. The road on the left, on leaving Bingen, skirts the foot of the Rochensberg, and commences a long, but gradual

ascent to an eminence, near the top of which stands a small obelisk erected by the French, and bearing this inscription, "Route de Charlemagne, terminée en l'an premier du règne de Napoleon-" (The Charlemagne Road, finished in the 1st year of the reign of Napoleon). From here, and from the adjoining heights, a magnificent view can be enjoyed, embracing the Rhine, the Rheingau, and the distant heights of the Taunus.

Ingelheim (Station). A place about 13 mile from the bank of the Rhine, now reduced to a miserable village. It was once the spot where Charlemagne loved to dwell, and where he built himself a magnificent Palace and decorated it with one bundred pillars of marble and porphyry, and with red mosaics sent to him by Pope Adrian. Mud cabins, dung-hills, and a Jews' burial-ground now occupy the site. The only memorials of its existence are a few mutilated fragments of pillars within one of the two Churches, near which it stood, and a column of granite inserted in a corner of an old gateway. In this church also, the one nearest to Mayence, is the monument of one of Charlemagne's four queens. The other church, on this side of Bingen, is a monument of the Romanesque style. Ingelheim wine is also famous.

ROUTE 25.

Saarbrücken to Trèves.

BY RAIL VIA SAARLOUIS.

Saarbrücken (Station). See Route 22. Rail to Metz, Forbach, and other places which figured in the war. The line to Trèves descends the pleasant valley of the Saar.

Saarlouis (Station). A frontier fortress of Prussia, of great strength. The Saar half encircles the town, sometimes laying it under water, and is spanned by a long stone bridge. The fortifications were built in one year by Vauban, to win a wager with Louis XIV. Population, 7,000, many of them descended from English prisoners confined there by this king. During the first French revolution it was called Saarlibre. It is remarkable as the birth-place of Marshal Ney. The Peace of Ryswick guaranteed this place to France, but the treaty of 1814 secured it to Prussia.

Merzig (Station).-At Mettlach, between here and Saarburg, is a pottery, formerly a Bened

abbey, founded and endowed in the seventh century. | capital, having a civilised population, with many (From a cliff all but inaccessible, the ruins of the famous buildings. Castle of Montelair command a view of the valley.) About 3 miles distant from Saarbrück, we see Castel, originally a Roman castle, and transformed into a chapel, to receive the remains of John, King of Bohemia, son of the emperor Henry the VII, killed in 1346, at the battle of Crécy. It was restored by the King, 1835.

Beurig-Saarburg (Stat.),near Saarburg, p.171. A small village delightfully situated at the mouth of the valley of the Saar. On the Leuk, which here falls into the Saar, is a beautiful waterfall, near some picturesque ruins. A branch rail, 11 miles long, is open from Saarburg to Saargemünd, It passes Hanweiler and Saaralben (Station), from which last a line opens to Bensdorf (Station), Château-Salins, &c., in France. The broken fragments of a summer palace of the lower empire are met with a little higher up, near which is the Igel Monument, a Roman pillar so called.

Conz(Station), at the junction for Luxembourg

and Brusseis.

TREVES (Station)—or Trier, in German. Hotels:

Hotel de Trèves (Trierscher Hof), very good hotel for families and gentlemen, recommended.

Rothes Haus, or Maison Rouge, an old-established good house, well situated, formerly the Hotel de Ville.

Augustus established a Roman colony here, called Augusta Trevirorum, immediately after the partition of Gaul, and settled there the supreme courts of administration; and Trèves became the metropolis of Belgica Prima comprising not only Belgium so-called, but the entire of Spain and Britain; Roman laws were issued and imperial crowns struck there, and cloth, arms, and military stores were supplied to the Roman legions. It was also the residence of several Roman emperors, and, in the great distribution of the empire, under Constantine the Great, the prætorian prefect of Gaul, was appointed to have his residence at Trèves, which first removed to Arles, when the German nations began to invade the Roman possessions.

Here also lived in high offices, Ausonius, the poet of the Moselle, the preceptor of the emperor Valentinian's son. Indeed, it may be said that when science was lost, and arts had nearly perished, and when the polished languages were exchanged forthe unintelligible jargon of northern barbarism, Trèves was the seat of the temple, within the sanctuary of which the time-honoured roll of literature found a refuge and a home from the stormy blasts of barbarism, until the spirit of her genius brooding a second time over the turbulent chaos, dried up the foul waters and prepared a way for science to re-visit the dwellings of men. And this old and venerable city, when the Vandal, the Hun, and Goth, poured their barbaric legions into her devoted bosom, sweeping away, like the stormy tornado. the purest monuments of her civic glory, the brightest trophies of her refinement in the arts and sciences, the sun of her imperial glory paled, and, though sorrowful in the dark glare of carnage and sanguinary desolation, was not then subdued; for scarcely had the storm subsided and the hurricane ceased to blow, when like a giant leviathan, she rose from her ruins, and from the ashes in which she was seated, and under the sway of the crozier and mitre, clothed herself again in all her ancient glory, rebuilt her temples, erected new altars to literature, consecrated anew the vestibules of her early imperialism, and endowed her venerated institutions with even more than their ancient

This ancient town lies in a charming valley of Rhenish Prussia, surrounded by low vine-clad hills, which is open from south-east to north-west, on the right bank of the Moselle, and contains a population of 37,370. A beautiful basin encircles the town, from the mouth of the Saar to that of the Kyall. Above and below it, small villages appear, like suburbs. Its interior is very agreeable, the streets being for the most part regular and large, and embellished with many fine houses; the slated roofs, however, render the place rather sombre and gloomy. The inscription "Ante Romam Treviris stetit annis MCCC.," on the walls of the former Town Hall, now Rothes Haus (or Red House) Hotel, asserts that Trèves was built before Rome. At all events, it is the oldest city in Germany, and was, when the Romans under Julius Cæsar (B.c. 58), first invaded it, a flourishing splendour. In 1702-4, the English, under Marl

borough, took Trèves. Its churches and convents were stripped of all their wealth and ornaments, and turned into stables by the French during the revolution. Previous to this, Trèves possessed more ecclesiastical buildings than any city in Europe of a similar size.

Trèves, after having been the seat of imperialism, spiritual and civil courts of the electorate, of a chapter, an episcopal college and a university, is now the seat of a Prussian governor. As a town it is decayed and faded, and only interesting because of its historical glories and for the Roman remains still existing in it. These remains constitute the most extensive relics of the once masters

of the world, saved from remote antiquity. As memorials of their architecture, history, &c., vastness and not beauty is the distinctive characteristic of their appearance, and in this they differ from remains found in the south of France and elsewhere. Christianity and Vandalism have, the latter by its barbarism, and the former by its prejudice, done much to annihilate and disfigure

these memorials of Roman dominion.

The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Helen is situated on the highest eminence in the town. The front and east side of it, consisting of Roman masonry, are said to have belonged to the palace of the Empress Helena, or to the number of large basilicas built under Constantine the Great, whose mother, we are told, deposited in the church the Seamless Coat of our Saviour, which, after being hidden for 134 years, was, in 1844, for eight weeks exhibited to the veneration of one million one hundred thousand pilgrims! Huge columns of granite adorned, in the eleventh century, that part where now the great choir stands; remains of them are still lying before the main entrance. In addition to the traces of Roman Byzantine architecture, we also discover traces of the middle ages in the interior of the well-preserved cloister which adjoins the church. In the interior of the church are several monuments of the electors of Trèves, among which is that of the soldier-prelate, Richard Von Greifenklau. The pulpit carving is pretty good, and the seats of the choir are inlaid with ivory and wood carving, and beneath the church are vaults in which repose the bones of archbishops and electors. Large funds accrue to this church

135

from the exhibition of the Holy Coat, and a portion of them are devoted to the repair of the cathedral.

Close to the cathedral is the Liebfrauen Kirche, or Church of Our Lady. It occupied from 1227 to 1243 in building, and is in the most elegant Pointed style; it is one of the earliest specimens of pure Gothic architecture. The disposition of the plan is grand, and the proportions are happily chosen. The eastern choir terminates in the form of a cross, the pieces of which form two lateral passages northward. The semicircular portal is richly ornamented with sculpture, and twelve columns, each bearing the figure of an apostle, support the interior. These may all be seen at once from a marked spot near the door. They show here the well-preserved corpse of St. Hildulph, bishop of Trèves. The monument of Archbishop Von Sirk, and the doorway in the north transept, are worth inspection.

The Porta Martis, commonly called the Black Gate, or Porta Nigra, is situated at the northern extremity of the town, near the Simeonsthor, and is one of the most interesting objects of antiquity in the city. Its origin or date cannot be ascertained, but it is surmised to have been built in the reign of Constantine the Great. Tuscan columns decorate the front, and its basement storey is very massive, and probably built as the entrance on the Some writers place the north of the city wall.

date of its erection before the arrival of the
Romans, and designate it the council-house of
the Belgæ. Its style of architecture would, how-
ever contradict this, and lead us to believe it a
building belonging to the lower empire. In 1305
the building was converted into a Church by Arch-
bishop Popo, and dedicated to St. Simeon, an
anchorite, who, in the eleventh century, on his
return from the Holy Land, took up his position
on the top of the edifice, acquired a reputation of
great sanctity, and at his death was added as a
saint to the Roman calendar. Napoleon stripped
the lead from the roof on his arrival at Trèves and
The Prussian govern-
had it cast into bullets.
ment, in 1816, cleared it of rubbish, to open
the folding door for the first time in 1817, for the
entry of the King of Prussia and the Crown Prince.
Thus all late defacements have been removed, and

only the lateral building of the eleventh century, | berg, a hill covered with vineyards. It was once containing the choir and altar, is left standing; it is a fine specimen of Roman architecture.

This Porta is constructed of reddish-grey blocks of sandstone, grown black by the influence of time, and so closely connected, without the application of mortar or cement, that the joints could scarcely be discerned, but they have been chipped and mutilated at their angles, in order to extract the metal clamps that united them. In the interior are some broken fragments of antiquity, the most remarkable of which are a bas-relief of gladiators, a mermaid with two tails, several earthen pipes, and some Roman milestones. Trinkgeld expected. The Palace of the Electors and Bishops. The bold

the scene of the "magnificum spectaculum-famosa supplicia," with which Constantine entertained his subjects. They were called Ludi Francici, or Frankish sports, and consisted in exposing many thousands of unarmed Frankish prisoners to be torn in pieces by wild beasts. The arena is 234 feet long and 155 feet broad. The circus mentioned by Augustine in his Confessions lay in a southern direction from the amphitheatre.

The Bridge over the Moselle is 690 feet long and 24 feet broad, and is probably one of the mostancient monuments in Trèves. It had eight arched openings, constructed of massive pieces of lava. The pillars of the bridge are, on an average, 66 feet

and gigantic construction of this building is still long and 21 feet broad, and date from the reign of

visible in its ruins. The edifice is now a barrack. The principal staircase is a rare specimen of rich and elaborate carving. It stands upon the site of an enormous Reman edifice, a fragment of which only remains, the other parts being removed in 1614 to make way for the Episcopal Palace erected on its ruins. The fragment remaining is a semicircular tower rising on high, and is called Heidenthurm, or Heathen's Tower. The walls are 90 feet high and 10 feet thick, and give some idea as to the colossal dimensions of the building when entire. The construction is entirely of bricks and tiles, and is a masterpiece of architecture, there not being a crack or break in the walls now after the lapse of ages. It is now used as a Church, for which purpose it was cleared out by order of the king of Prussia. From the portals of this broken ruin were issued those decrees which gave laws to Rome, Constantinople, and to Britain at the one epoch. It was also the favourite residence of Constantine.

An open space in front of this building serves as a drill-ground for the troops, and at its further extremity are the ruins of the baths or Thermæ, in the vicinity of the Holy Cross. Though much mutilated, these ruins have been laid bare by the direction of the Prussian Government. They resemble, in their vaulted rooms, reservoirs, earthen pipes, and channels for hot and cold water, the Thermæ of Caracalla and Domitian at Rome.

To the east of the baths is the Roman Amphitheatre, appearing as if scooped out of the Mars

Augustus. It originally stood near the centre of the town, and resisted during a cycle of centuries, the efforts of barbarism, until the French blew it up in the wars of Louis XIV., and hence the only parts now remaining are the piers of large stones from the lava quarries, at Mendig, near the lake of Laach. It was partly re-built, 1741.

Without the city there were four Abbeys of Benedictines, renowned for their great wealth, not a fragment of which now remains, and modern structures have even replaced the old edifices. They were those of St. Matthew, now a school; St. Maximin, now a barrack; St Martin on the Moselle, now a china factory; and St. Mary of the Four Martyrs, below the town on the site once occupied by the Roman prefect's palace, where the soldiers of the Theban legion suffered martyrdom.

The University, which had greatly declined, was formed by the French into a college, and is at present used as a High School in which is placed the Town library, containing 94,000 volumes, a MS. of the four gospels, the famous Codex Aureus, written in golden letters, bound in plates of gilt silver, with figures embossed in high relief, interspersed with precious stones, and having in the centre, a splendid cameo, representing Augustus and his family, besides several other literary curiosities. Among the collection of curiosities is Guttenberg's first bible, many other printed books of great value, and a large number of ancient coins and medals, and also Archbishop Engelbert's MS. copy of the gospels, distinguished by many excellent pictures; a German prayer book, with

masterly miniature painting; and ten autograph letters of Luther and Ignatius. Museum of 7,000 coins. Open 10-30 to 12-30, gratis. At other times, 1 mark.

Trèves was the birth-place of St. Ambrose, and the Alma Mater of St. Jerome. The Basilica Romana is now a Protestant Church.

A pillar of granite stands in the market-place; it is surmounted by a cross, designed to commemorate the appearance of the fiery cross, which tradition tells us, was seen in the sky in 958.

The environs of Trèves are charming; many parts are in the style of Swiss landscapes. One of the chief points is Pallien, a village on the left bank of the Moselle, at the mouth of a ravine, up which the road to Aix-la-Chapelle is carried. From this village we behold the most beautiful and picturesque views of the valley and its romantic environs, especially from the archway of a brick bridge thrown over the ravine by Napoleon. From the pretty White House on the height above Pallien, we can enjoy a good view of the abbey of the Moselle and of the city before us.

From Trèves a delightful excursion can be made to Igel, a small village 6 miles distant from the city, on the road to Luxembourg, remarkable for its Roman column 70 feet high (see page 61).

Another excursion may be made to Echternach, on the Saur or Sure (in Luxembourg), which has, on a hill, the Church of St. Willibrod, or Willbrord (the Northumbrian apostle of the Frisians), to which the "hopping pilgrims" come on Whit-Sunday. They hop a distance of seven miles. It commemorates the cure of St. Vitus's dance.

Conveyances-Diligences daily from Trèves to Bitburg, 5 hours; Wadern, 5 hours. Rail to Luxembourg, Metz, Bingen, and Aix-la-Chapelle. A direct rail of 112 miles, is open from Trèves to Cologne, past Ehrang and Speicher (from which a short branch is made to Quint, down the Moselle), Kyllburg, Gerolstein, Blankenheim, and Euskirchen, where traces of a Roman town were found, 1875. This traverses the highly interesting volcanic district of the Eifel; the highest point, the Scharteberg, 2,100ft., is near Gerolstein,

Steamboats on the Upper Moselle between Trèves, Thursmitte, and Metz daily in summer; also to Coblenz Wednesdays and Saturdays. The rail is now open to Coblenz, 65 miles (see pages 111 and 112.)

ROUTE 26.

Mayence to Metz.

Distance, 46 English miles.

At short distances we pass the unimportant villages of Niederolm and Wörrstadt, arriving shortly after at

Alzey or Alzei (Station), on the Bingen and Worms line, near a small village, with a population of 3,500. It is a very old place, and perhaps of Roman origin. The Castle, at present an extensive ruin, was blown down by the French in 16 9. We next arrive at Morschheim, a village of 600 inhabitants, where the road leaves Hesse Darmstadt and enters Bavaria, and in half an hour arrives at Kirchheimbolanden (Station). Population, 3,125. Formerly the residence of the Princes of Nassau-Weilberg. The church and family vault of the Princes are worth seeing.

[Six miles from here is the Mount Tonnere, or Donnersberg, frequently ascended from this village. The road winding by the base of the mount conducts by the right. The mountain, composed of

porphyry, is 2,090 feet above the level of the sea. On the plateau you behold the remains of the great Roman entrenchments, the measurement of which was 12,315 feet. A splendid view can be obtained from the signal tower.]

Pass Standebühl and Sombech, to

Kaiserslautern (Station)-Inn: Schwann.Population, 19,000. It is a very ancient town and in ruins. The Emperor Barbarossa built there in the twelfth century a castle, separated from the town by its fortifications. In the war of the Spanish Succession it was destroyed. It is very well situated for trade, and encourages considerable woollen manufactories. It is the seat of the central prison of the Rhenish circle, which is built over the ruins of Barbarossa's castle.

Railway to Mannheim, also to Ludwigshafen and to Paris by Homburg, Neunkirchen, Saarbrücken, and Firbach. Landstuhl (Station), near a small town containing 1,500 inhabitants. The

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