Page images
PDF
EPUB

brilliant effect of the new town of Tone Greco, contrasted with the ugly and terrific streak of lava which extends its black course from two small volcanic craters, at the foot of Vesuvius, in various and winding directions to the town, which stands on the shore. From thence to Portici the coast is interspersed with villas and luxuriant gardens, the summer residences of the multitudinous nobility and princes of Naples. Portici itself, where the King's palace, and gardens of evergreen groves make a conspicuous figure, stretches round the curve of the bay, within two or three miles of Naples. The immense tide of lava which overwhelmed Herculaneum and buried it in a mass of eighty feet in depth, has left visible marks of its course, although seventeen hundred years ago, and now in a state of cultivation. Beyond, on the right, is the last streak of lava which was vomited from Vesuvius, in the year 1794, and following a direction towards Naples, menaced the destruction of the hither part of the city. The ebullition, however, happily soon subsided, and the red river flowed no farther than about three miles, in a course that comparatively was little mischievous. Every thing indeed within its reach was destroyed, but no town was in the way. The view of the distant mountain behind Capua is intercepted by the abrupt and jagged western side of the ancient crater, which, when Pompei fell a victim to its fury, cast up and formed the present cone of Vesuvius.

The sides of the mountain are covered with loose earth and stones, which are continually crumbling away from the summit, and even within the memory of near residents, have considerably reduced the height of the mountain. All under the cone, for the space of half a mile, is a confused and many-coloured surface of lava, uneven from the number of small craters which have been formed at various periods, as well from the enormous solid masses which, after being carried into the air by the wonderful power of the volcano, have been precipitated and strewed on all sides.

I have been thus minute in describing the beauties of this prospect, because it comprises such a variety of objects, and is probably superior to any scene in the world, unless a situation on the bay should be preferred, which would better embrace this isolated and picturesque mountain. Many parts of the scene, it must be confessed, would appear with greater advantage from below, but others would not fall within the compass of the eye; perhaps it may be said with justice, that the eye would enjoy most from the bay, but that the pen could describe best from the mountain.

It was only to turn round from this heavenly picture, and we seemed as it were, in the jaws of this infernal monster. His appearance was tremendous, though tranquil. Small spiral lines of smoke and steam only are seen issuing from the various crannies in his side and bottom. The crater seems about two hundred and fifty feet deep, and on all sides, nearly perpendicular, except at one place, where the falling away of the top furnishes the adventurous curiosi an opportunity of descending into the bowl. Ambitious, in common with most of the foreigners who visit this volcano, to descend, although few of the natives make the experiment, we resolved to examine more minutely the state in which the last eruption had left the crater. To those who know nothing of the volcano but by representation, the descent into the crater may appear a bold enterprise, but the only real danger incurred arises from the probability of loose pieces of rock quitting their hold, and crushing you

in their full. The conductor frequently reminds you of this danger, and requests you to be very careful where you place your hands, although it is impossible to accomplish this task without the assistance of your hands, and without sometimes gliding on your breech. When descended, you find a large space, and a great variety of surface; at one part vast rocks of lava, lying in confused heaps, and difficult to pass over; at another, banks of earth like loam, steaming with heat; at another, small craters in the form of tunnels, from whose apertures a continual steam arises. In various parts you have only to raise a large stone and you find beneath an intense degree of heat, and on applying your right ear, you frequently hear an internal noise, like the rumbling sound of distant thunder. Many of the pieces of stone appear sulphurous, and some are covered with chrystalline salt; and we conceived that the steam was often pungent, like the volatile particles of oxygenated muriatic acid. We, each of us, brought away several pieces of the volcanic petrifactions, as beautiful as we could find, in an almost burning state of heat. So much of the surface was like Milton's "burning marle," that we soon felt the heat through the soles of our boots in walking over it. After indulging our curiosity half an hour, in admiring this stupendous wonder, we climbed the difficult ascent, and with much fatigue, and some assistance from our guide, again reached the margin, which is a full mile în circumference. Having selected the smoothest part of the surface to descend upon, we found the sensation remarkably pleasant. It is a kind of skaiting, for you may walk to the bottom of the mountain without raising your feet above the surface. At the base of the cone we re-mounted our mules and returned to Portici, and strolled over the king's gardens, where we were treated with some excellent oranges, and presented with brilliant nosegays. We then visited the museum, and saw some admirable pieces of sculpture. Many of the antiquities which had been collected in the subterraneous towns had unfortunately been removed to Palermo, to secure them from French pillage. Much however, still remained which claimed remark. Amongst other curiosities, we saw some corn grown in the first century of our æra, and many utensils, weights, and coins, and what forms a precious morsel of antiquity, one whole library fouud at Pompei, in such a state that some of the books, or more properly speaking, volumes have been unfolded, and we saw sheets pasted on a board, which required little difficulty to decipher. Philodemus, a Grecian philosopher, was the reputed author, as our conductor informed us, of the greater part of them. They were in the shape of moral essays.

A long suite of rooms is devoted to the painted figures and curious pieces of coloured stucco and mosaic work, found amongst the ruins. From these you may derive correct notions of the taste and manners of the Romans, in the internal arrangement of their private houses. There are several collections of antiquities in Europe, superior to this in its matilated state, but as it still contains some valuable rarities not to be found elsewhere, at least it deserves notice. To this palace the king is particularly partial, as a summer residence. It is a spacious quadrangular building, and remarkable for what I should conceive, a singular inconvenience. The high road from Naples to Calabria leads through the centre of it, passing under the chambers of the two opposite sides of the quadrangle. The situation is in the midst of the central street of this neat and pleasant town.

Notwithstanding the long absence of the royal family, Portici seem's gay

and lively; the cheerful inhabitants appear unconscious of the ruins they tread upon, as they are unapprehensive of a similar fate. Yet, whenever Vesuvius exhibits any forewarning symptoms of "uncommon wrath," they precipitately take flight and seek a more remote asylum. In all the roads near Vesuvius, you frequently see the image of St. Januarius, the tutelar saint of Naples, in an attitude, as if warding off the fury of the volcano. It should seem extraordinary, that at a period, when the most ignorant of our labouring classes, are far removed beyond the danger of such a delusion, the main body of the Neapolitan people, should be the dupes of so gross a cheat, as the priesthood annually pass upon them in the pretended liquefaction of the blood of Januarius. We met with several foreigners of respectable credit, who were present this year at that farcical ceremony. They seriously assured us that the multitudes present witnessed the whole form with most awful attention, and departed away apparently with implicit belief, in the perform. ance of a miracle.

After sleeping again at Portici, we took boat in the morning, and coasted it leisurely along the shore to Naples, and passed a week more in the city before we made any other excursion into the country. Immediately after our return, we received a polite invitation from our fellow traveller M. Grabau, to meet Lord Hutchinson and brothers, on the morrow, who fortunately resided whilst at Naples, with a merchant that M. G. was come to settle in partnership with. We met them, and passed a pleasant day a la mode Angloise. The youngest Mr. Hutchinson is a cheerful companion. The other brother partakes of the reserved saturniae disposition of his Lordship, who appears to be a man of talents, but who, we were credibly informed, has more the esteetn than the affection of his officers. He had resided some time in Rome and Florence, in his youth, and spoke Italian with some fluency.

A gentleman of Palermo, introduced us one evening to a large converzatione party. We found the greater part of the company silting in easy and unceremonious groups, whilst in one corner of the room, a table was very earnestly engaged at basetto---a chance game, like our faru, to which they are very fond of inviting, to make a prey of foreigners. The dealer bas, with some greater risk, peculiar advantages. This amusement we declined to share in, but were pleased with the sprightly manners and conversation of the ladies, who preferred the chit chat or the song. A guitar was introduced, and a marquis (noblemen are more numerous and more cheap here, than Peg Nicholson's knights in England,) favoured us with a languishing song, of his own composition. The dress of the ladies was easy and unstudied, unless where they studied to display a graceful neck to most advantage. I would here quote a line from Tasso, which most pointedly expresses that half concealed beauty of the bosom, by which he increases the attractive charins of Armida, but [ do not recollect his precise words, and I will not spoil his harmonious poetry by a mistake. In fact, I have studiously avoided classical quotations. To every traveller through Italy, they must frequently occur. But, at best, they smell of tre pedant, and at all events, they do not answer my purpose. The advice of Tasso, however, I dare say has not escaped the attention of the Italian fair. (To be Continued.)

Printed and Published by RICHARD CARLILE, 62, Fleet-street, where all Communications, post-paid, or free of expense, are requested to be left.

[graphic][ocr errors]

The Lion.

No. 25. VOL. 2.] LONDON, Friday, Dec. 19, 1828. [PRICE 6d.

LETTER 45.-FROM THE REV. ROBERT TAYLOR.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE ROBERT PEEL.

SIR,---From the high station you hold under his Majesty's government, I presume that all appeals for mitigation of punishments, or for redress of wrongs that may have arisen in the ministrations of the subordinate authorities, are properly to be submitted to your consideration. On this presumption, I respectfully avail myself of a subject's right to claim inquiry into the hard case of oppression and injustice of which I have to complain, and to hope for that consideration of my most just and reasonable remonstrances, which, from British Statesmen, is not wont to be hoped for in vain.

I am most unjustly a prisoner in his Majesty's gaol of Oakham, for the foolishly alleged crime of spoken blasphemy, that is, for having spoke certain words not in accordance with the metaphysical speculations of my prosecutors. For this offence, by which (whatever in itself) no subject of his Majesty hath been deceived or injured; I endure a harsher sentence than would have been passed on many very capital degrees of violence or fraud. I am under sentence of imprisonment for twelve months; at the expiration of which, I am to be bound in securities, myself in 500l. and two other persons in 2501. each, to be of good behaviour, &c. for five years. It is against this latter and far most grievous and terrible part of a sentence, which in the whole and altogether was most flagrantly unjust, that I make this my most earnest and respectful appeal; and do humbly entreat of your generosity, of your reason, and of your JUSTICE, that at the end of a completed twelvemonth's imprisonment (which will be on the 6th of February next), I may be liberated entirely, and that no securities of any sort may be required from me.

1. Because, from the very peculiar and indefinable nature of the offence charged against me, there must necessarily arise as Printed and Published by R. CARLILE, 62, Fleet Street.

No. 25.-Vol. 2.

3 D

peculiar a difficulty of obtaining the required securities, inasmuch as whoever should be found competent and willing to give them, must necessarily incur upon themselves, and to their own fortunes and characters, the detriment of a virtually publicly-avowed accordance and approval of the opinions which have been held criminal in me :-and,

2. Because, the hazard of the securities in such a case, must be infinitely greater than in any other; as hanging upon the chance of any unguarded word that I may utter in the course of five years, and even on the construction which a jealous fanaticism and offended ignorance may put on such a word :—and,

3. Because, no rational calculations of probable safety to the persons so held as securities, would be competent to conflict with the mighty stress of the presumption that securities so unjustly demanded, would be as unjustly held to be forfeited:

4. Because, so wolfishly bent on the utter destruction, both of me and of all who should be found friends to me, are my religious prosecutors; that not content with one conviction, two other indictments for the same foolishly alleged crime of spoken blasphemy, have been passed as true bills before grand juries at the Old Bailey, removed by writs of certiorari into the Court of King's Bench, and are now lodged in the Crown Office against me; and a third is threatened, for publications of which I have been the author, since I have been in this prison:

5. Because, in the second of these indictments, upon which a true bill has passed the grand jury, six other persons are charged as conspirators forsooth in blasphemy, upon evidence only of their having been in the number of the many hundreds who were my hearers:-and,

6. Because, this war of multiplied prosecutions, carried on by the mighty wealth of the city of London, in the filching and perverting hands of its unperceived abusers, though less mischievous than it is intended to be, is mischievous enough to be dangerous to the fortunes, peace and happiness of private individuals; and can only be suppressed by the decisive display of such a tone of liberality in higher authorities, as shall show that law is not to be made an engine of fanaticism, nor the countenance of his Majesty's ministers to be lent to the purposes of persecuting cruelty and religious maliciousness:

7. Because, even if I found no difficulty in obtaining the required securities, or they were voluntarily offered in my behalf, yet, could I not consent to accept the offer, as knowing beforehand how liable they were to be forfeited-nay, how certainly and assuredly it would be my intention to forfeit them :-and,

8. Because, such repeated prosecutions, and repeated forfeitures, would only serve as a bait and incitement to further avarice and cruelty, to revive the reign of religious persecution, to reflect dishonour on his Majesty's government, and to keep up an eternal

« PreviousContinue »