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square tower which surmounts the church, was begun in 1440, and was to have been carried to a height of 400 feet, but the design has never been completed. In the twelfth chapel of this edifice, is a magnificent picture of the crucifixion, by Van Dyck, the only work of this master which is to be found in any of the public buildings of Ghent. Each of the chapels, which are twelve in number, contains one or more pictures of various merit: it will be sufficient to direct the attention of the amateur to the Annunciation, by Lens, and the Assumption, by François, both in the newly finished chapel, to the right of the cross of the church; the Apotheosis of St. Catherine in the third chapel, by Crayer, and the Finding of the Cross, by the Empress Helena, whose figure, represented in the picture, was furnished by the Empress Josephine, who sat for the model. There are also in this church, numerous paintings, by Belgian artists. The organ recently erected in this church is remarkable for its sweetness. The other principal churches worth visiting are those of Saint Pierre, St. Nicholas, and St. Jacques; this latter church is situated in a vast square. It was destroyed in 1720 and afterwards rebuilt.

The Béguinage. The community of Béguines was founded by St. Bagge, Duchess of Brabant, and sister of Philip of Landen. The community is peculiar to the Netherlands. Clement V. issued a bull against these sisters, but John XXII. revoked it, and accorded them many indulgences. It is one of the few nunneries not swept away by the fury of the French revolution, or suppressed by Joseph II. Their existence received a legal ratification in 1826. The sisters are bound by no vow, and may return to the world at any time. Their chief duty is to attend to the sick and visit the hospitals, where they are constantly to be met with. In the order are persons of the highest families and wealth. The sisters in Ghent amount to about one hundred, whilst their entire number in Belgium is six thousand. The building is of considerable extent, with streets, squares, and gates, enclosed by a wall and moat. The house at Ghent, called the Grand Béguinage, is situated in the Rue des Bruges, and was founded by Jane, Countess of Constantinople, in 1234. The first chapel was built in 1242. The sisters live in separate houses, and each door has inscribed on

tectress. Visitors to Ghent sbould visit this church at the hour of vespers, which are sung at half-past seven each evening. The scene is most impressive. The sisters are all dressed in black robes with white veils; the novices are distinguished by a different dress, whilst those who have but lately taken the veil, are distinguished by a chaplet, which they wear around their heads. The chapel, barely illuminated by a few lamps, and the solemn singing, together with the large assemblage of sisters, so picturesquely dressed, imparts to the scene an aspect of solemn grandeur and mystic beauty that cannot fail to impress the mind of the beholder with feelings of awe and reverence, such as are only felt in the presence of objects interesting and sublime. The chapel itself is interesting in the extreme, and on the stone work of one of its pillars, was inscribed the following touching inscription by Lamartine:"......Un peu de baume à la Souffrance

Au corps quelque rèmede, aux âmes l'esperance
Un secours au malade, aux parents un adieu
Un Sourire à chacun, a tous un mot de Dieu."

The

Hôtel de Ville is situated partly in the Rue Haute-Porte, and partly in La Marché-au-Beure. The portion standing in the former street is built in the Gothic style of architecture, presents a magnificent appearance, and is adorned with It has two exquisitely wrought ornaments. façades, built at intervals between 1482 and 1620 after several plans, by as many architects. turret or tribune at the corner, was built in 15271560 by Eustace Polleyt, and is in the richest flamboyant Gothic style. The other façade, built between 1600 and 1620, has columns of three different orders of achitecture, one surmounting the other. In the Salle du Trone, so celebrated in the annals of Ghent, was signed the treaty known as the "Pacification of Ghent," drawn up, in 1576, by the congress of confederates, who assembled to adopt measures calculated to drive the Spaniards from out of Belgium. Two modern paintings are to be seen in the interior of the building, which will not elicit very much admiration.

Palace of Justice.-A striking building by Rôlands, is situated in the Rue du Theâtre. The ground floor is used as the Exchange, and the upper chamber as Courts of Justice.

Palais de L'Université-Founded by William

I., King of Holland, in 1826. It is a beautiful and modern edifice, having a splendid Corinthian portico, modelled from the Pantheon, at Rome, and is built on the site of the Jesuits' College. The principal hall, and the amphitheatre, in which the academé meetings are held, can accommodate from sixteen to seventeen hundred people, and is richly ornamented and embellished.

The Museum of Natural History is not less remarkable for its extent than for the richness of its collection. The university contains a library open to the public each day from nine to twelve and from two to five o'clock, unless on Sundays, and feast-days. This library contains sixty thousand volumes, and very many precious manuscripts. The Jardin Botanique, instituted in 1797, belongs to the university, and is spoken of as one of the finest in Belgium. It contains a collection of eight thousand plants, of a thousand different species.

Maison des Bateliers, on the Quai aux Herbes, is an old and picturesque edifice, built in 1513.

The La Halle aux Draps will also repay notice. Maison de Detention, a house of correction, situated on the north side of the city, on the Coupurea canal, which is bordered by a double row of large trees. It was constructed in 1773, in the reign of Maria Theresa, and forms a perfect octagon, in the centre of which is a spacious court, communicating with the different quadrangles of the establishment. Each quadrangle or ward has a yard, and in the centre of that belonging to the female ward, is a large basin of water, in which the female prisoners wash the linen of the whole establishment. Each prisoner sleeps alone in a small, but well-aired room, and is employed during the day in working at whatever trade or business he or she is most competent to; and of the produce of this labour, fivetenths are retained by government when the prisoners are merely detained correctionally; sixtenths when they have been sentenced to hard labour.

The remainder is divided into two portions; half is given to the prisoners weekly for pocket money, and the other given to them at the expiration of the term of their imprisonment, to assist in their re-establishment in the world. Religious service and instruction are provided and attended to in an admirable manner; and if prisoners are found ignorant of the first elements of knowledge, as reading, writing, and arithmetic,

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they receive instruction in the various branches. Insubordination or refractory conduct is punished by solitary confinement. The shop for refreshments sold to the prisoners, is kept under strict regulations by the officers of the establishment, and the profits are employed as rewards for the most industrious and well-behaved prisoners. The new part of the building, which has been recently completed, has cost upwards of £40,000 and the whole edifice will, when finished, contain two thousand, six hundred prisoners. There is still, however, much to be done.

Le Kauter, or Place d'Armes, is a large square planted with trees. It is a beautiful promenade, and has a military band usually playing there on summer evenings.

The Marché au Vendredi (Vrijdays market), a vast square, so called from the day on which the fair is held. It is remarkable as having been the spot where the trades' unions of the middle ages planted their standards and rallied to arms. On it the ceremonial of inaugurating the Counts of Flanders was celebrated with a gorgeous and luxurious grandeur, unequalled at the present day. This spot is also identified with one of the most painful and tragie reminiscences connected with the history of Ghent. It is celebrated as being the scene of an internecine slaughter, in which fifteen hundred citizens were slain by fellow citizens. The weavers and fullers constituted the two factions, and the former were led on and headed by Jacques Van Artivelde, called the brewer of Ghent, in the corporation of which body he enrolled himself, though descended from one of the first families in Flanders. The day, to mark the sanguinary and disgraceful work, was called Evil Monday, in the annals of the town. On that spot, and on that day forty years after, Philip, the son of that Jacques, was saluted Protector of Ghent, and received the oath of fidelity from his townsmen on the occasion of his being called upon to lead them against Louis de Mâle. In the Marché au Vendredi also were lighted the fires of the Inquisition, under the duke of Alva. The great cannon, situated in a street called the "Mannekens Aert," close to the Marché, is called Du dulle Grute, alias Mad Margery, is the most enormous ever cast, measuring ten feet in length and ten and a-half feet in circumference. It is made of hammered iron, and was used in

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1382 at the siege of Oudenarde, by the citizens of Ghent. An interesting monument of antiquity, stands in the Place St. Pharailde, near the Marché aux Poissons. It consists of an old turreted gateway, called the Oudeburg or the count's stone or castle, built in 863, by Baldwin Bras de fer. is incorporated with a cotton factory now, and deserves a visit, as one of the oldest buildings in Belgium. In the year 1338, Edward L. and his family resided here. During his residence his queen gave birth to a son, called John of Gaunt. An in.imate and friendly alliance existed for years between the English and people of Ghent. It may not be uninteresting to mention the fate of Jacques Van Artiveldi, the brewer, whom Edward III. of England used to style familiarly his dear gossip." He was a faithful friend and ally to this king, and lost his life, it may be said, in his service. He invited Edward III. over to Sluis, in 1344. with a view of taking council for the promotion of the promise made to the king by Jacques, to the effect that he would make him "Lord and hericor of Flanders," a thing altogether opposed to the wishes of the Gantoises. Public indignation was excited against him, and was further increased by a rumour to the effect, that he had, during his aumin stration of the government of Flanders, stealthily sent large sums of money ou of the exchequer to England, which so exasperated the people, as to cause them to enter into a revolt against him, assault his house, which was attacked by a mob of 400 persons, and broken into, when a citizen, named Thomas O. Dennys, slew him without mercy. Thus perished the man, by the hands of those citizens whom he once influenced, led, and governed; and whose sanguinary affrays were often undertaken in his desire to gratify the ambition or daring to which he ministered.

Portes de la Ville, or City Gates.-There are seven principal gates, the most remarkable of which are those of Brussels, St. Lievin, St. Peter, and Bruges, all of which present curious relics of the ancient gates erected in the fourteenth century. The greater portion of these gates have been re-constructed, after a style of beautiful architecture.

Casino. Situated near the canal, cut in 1750, to unite the Lys and Bruges canal together. The botanical society and the musical society of St.

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Cécily bad this edifice constructed, in which might be held the reunions of the latter, and the floral exhibitions of the former.

Citadel-Was erected by Charles V., and was the first thing of the kind raised in Belgium. It was called "Château des Espagnoles," and is situated on the east side of the town, not far from the Porte d'Anvers. In it were imprisoned the Counts Egmont, and Horn, and it was besieged in 1570, by the townspeople, under the Prince of Orange, when they rose to throw off the Spanish yoke. The Spaniards vigorously defended it, but three thousand Gantoises, wearing white shirts to distinguish them, assaulted it, and were repulsed, in consequence of the ladders being too short. The Spaniards capitulated next morning, after the attack, and terms being granted, the Senora Mondragon, who had bravely defended the fortress during her husband's absence, with about one hundred and fifty men, some women, and a few children. the sole remnant of the garrison, marched out, to the surprise of the victors.

Hospitals-Ghent possesses one and twenty hospitals, civil and military. The principal of these is the Byloque, founded in 1225, and capable of containing six hundred sick. In the church attached to it, Jacques Van Artivelde was buried. The military hospital is situated near the church of St. Martin, among beautiful gardens.

Theatre.-A magnificent theatre has been lately erected at the corner of the Place d'Armes. The salon, concert hall, and ball rooms are beautiful in their construction and decoration. It was erected at a cost of 2,500,000 francs.

Palais de Justice-Situated in the Rue du Theatre, is a very fine building, and will repay notice.

The commerce and manufactures of Cheat are very extensive and various; the most in portant of the latter consist in cotton printing, cotton spinning, cloth working, gin distilling, sugar-refining, soap making, brewing, goldsmith's work, paper making, and numerous other branches of industry, particularly the making of masks, of which large quantities are exported all over the world. There is also a superb iron foundry in Ghent. Every day in the morning, at noon, and in the evening, a bell rings, to announce to the workmen, who amount in number to fifteen hundred and upwards, the hours of going to work.

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While this bell is ringing, none of the bridges are allowed to be turned, lest they should intercept the passage of the industrious artizans.

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The

Imperial Flanders, and was reduced to ashes by a conflagration in 1360, and in 1667 the celebrated Marshal Turenne tok and dismantled it. town hall is a fine Gothic edifice, built in 1210. and is in excel ent preservation. The collegiate church of St Martin was buiit by the same archi tect as the cathedral of Amiens, and contains a fine picture by Rubens, representing the "Plague of Alost." The population is about 15,000 chiefly engaged in linen, soap, and thread

Fleuris.

The fairs held at Ghent, commence on the 16th March, and continue for eighteen days; 10th July, seventeen days; 9th August, one day; and 3rd October, two days.

Post Office, Rue de l'Université.

A communication between the sea and Ghent exists by means of a canal, which enters the Schelde at Terneuse. This ensures all the advantages of a seaport to the city. Vessels drawing eighteen feet of water, can enter the basin. About fourteen miles north, at Sas van Ghent, are sluices, by means of which the entire country can be laid under water. GHENT TO ANTWERP, see page 55.

Ghent to Mechlin.-Leaving Ghent, the railway, after crossing the Scheldt, is carried along the south side of it. The scenery is interesting, and such as usually characterises the environs of a great and populous city, until we arrive at

MELLE-Situated on the Escaut, and containing a population of 1,900. The route from Brussels, to Ghent, and from Ghent to Mons by Grammont, traverses it. From this station to Wettern, the line describes an immense curve, following the bend of the Escaut, on whose surface can be seen the boats as they sail up and down the river. WETTERN, is a charming village, or rather town, the capital of a canton situated to the right of the railway, on the right bank of the Escaut. It contains a population of about 1,000 souls.

At this point a short branch diverges to the right, forming a communication with

ALOST, on the river Dendre, the chief town of the district of East Flanders, sai to owe its origin to a fortress built by the Goths in 411. It was formerly the capital of what was called

Leaving Wettern the road crosses a viaduct, and passing along, has to the left, the little village of Cherscamp an Schelle-Belle, and arrives at Wichelen, after passing the Molen uk, a stream flowing into the E caut.

WICHELEN is a small commune to the right of the railway, with a population of 4,000 inhabitants. This station is the point-d'arrêt for each train. On quitting this place, the railway proceeds th ough a rather uninteresting piece of country and arrives at

TERMONDE, (Inns: Aigle; Demi-Lune) an ancient town, said to be earlier than the time of Charlemagne. It is situated at the mouth of the river Dendre, at its confluence with the Scheldt. The inhabitants have a taste for the fine arts, and the traveller may readily obtain access to several private collections, among which we may name those of M. Schellekin and Madame Terlinden. David Teniers married in this town, and resided here several years. The population is about 8,000, chiefly engaged in the It is 16 miles, by railway hemp and flax trade.

west of Malines, and 19 from Ghent.

The

church of Notre Dame will repay a visit. It is a low, old building, surmounted by an octagon tower, and contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Van Dyck, and a Virgin and Saints, by Crayer.

On leaving Termonde, we pass a great many pretty villages, of no note, and leaving East Flanders, arrive at

MALDEREN, a commune containing 1,700 inhabitants, situated at the extremity of the province of Brabant. The town presents no remark. able objects of attraction save its church and a few curious monuments of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The route through which we pass from here to Capelle, is no way interesting. Capelle au-Bois is a little village of no

Importance. Leaving at a short distance from here the province of Brabant, we enter, at Hombeck, the province of Antwerp. Passing the ruins of the famous valley of Seliendael, we arrive at

Mechlin (French Malines; German, Mechlen; Flemish, Michelen) Hotels :

Hotel de la Grue, is an excellent house, well situated in the Grand Place, facing the cathedral The landlord and waiters speak English. Hôtel St. Jacques.

The Malines station is about five minutes walk from the town, which is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities. An obelisk is here erected, to mark the point where the various Belgic lines of railway diverge. The entrance from the railway station is fine.

Mechlin is a large town, in the province of Antwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It is equidistant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Louvain, and contains a population of 25,000.

The streets are broad, and bordered in many places by good buildings.

The river Dyle passes through the town, and has an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league beyond Mechlin, in the direction of Louvain.

This town dates its origin as far back as the seventh century, and was long a subject of contention between the lords of Brabant and Flanders.

The lace produced at Mechlin is considered second only to that of Brussels, from which it differs principally in being made in a single piece, by means of bobbins, by which the entire patterns are produced at once, instead of being worked gradually by the hand, and hence it is stronger than the Brussels lace, though inferior to it in delicacy of workmanship.

The principal building of Mechlin is the cathedral, which is the metropolitan church of Belgium. It is dedicated to St. Rombauld, who was assassinated by the Pagans, in 755, in the chapel of St. Stephen, which stood near the site of the present edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the latter part of the twelfth century, but was not finished until the year 1513. The round tower, which surmounts the building, is almost entirely composed of buttresses, which give it, when seen from a distance, the appearance of a fragment of a colossal fluted column. It was commenced in 1452, from the funds supplied by the offerings of the pilgrims, who came in crowds to Mechlin,

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to share the advantages of the jubilee and general indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nicholas V., on the occasion of the war in the East, which however, terminated the very next year in the annihilation of the Eastern Empire, and the occupation of Constantinople by the Turks, un der Mahomed. It was from this jubilee that the town acquired the name of "Malines l'heureuse," as it has since, from its great cleanliness, been named "Malines la propre." This tower is three hundred and fifty feet high, and has a dial plate of one hundred and forty-four feet in circumference. The view from the summit, over the surrounding country, is extensive, comprising the towns of Antwerp, Brussels, and Louvain. It was originally intended to surmount the tower by a vane of copper gilt, which would have increased the height nearly one-third, but the project has never been put into execution, and the tower remains unfinished. The alarm occasioned by the reflection of the moon on this tower which gives it the appearance of being on fire, was the origin of the proverb of the wise men of Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon;" the bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of the town, would even now, excite an irritation not easily to be appeased. The interior of the cathedral presents nothing worthy of notice, except the altar-piece, which is by Van Dyck; its subject is the Crucifixion. The exterio: grand-front is ornamented with several statues, amongst them are Faith, Hope, Charity, and the Apostles. In the church of Notre Dame, behind the grand altar, is the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, painted by Rubens expressly for the Guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his finest productions. In the same church are also a few fine pictures by Van Dyck. The traveller must take care not to confound this church with that called Notre Dame d'Hansioyck, which is remarkable for its beautiful cupola, and also for its carved pulpit, representing the temptation and fall of Adam and Eve. This church owes its origin to a miraculous image of the Virgin, which floated in a boat against the stream, until it arrived at the spot where the church now stands, when it approached the bank and remained firm; of course a sacred edifice to enshrine the image was immediately built; and equally of course, the image repaid the devotion of the inhabitants by