66 DISEASES OF SHEEP.-BENEFITS OF SALT AS MANURE. The last resort for foot rot is butter of antimony, and a few minutes after, apply white lead freely. CURE FOR WITHERS COMING DOWN.-Wash them with milk and water before returning them-or boil 2 qts. milk with a good deal of lard, and wash them often while putting up. the matter; although, we can say with perfect | prescription, and tie it on with a rag or piece of truth, in all these respects we think we are de- leather. serving praise, and merit a large subscription list. Not a single number we issue which does not contain a dollar's worth of information to the farmer, and this is acknowledged over and over again by our correspondents, as we could easily show from their letters, if we did not think it better for our readers to give them useful practical matter, instead of encomiums upon our humble selves. This journal, in its style, spirit, and character, has ever taken the lead of all others; and this is lately evidenced by the attempted copyings of it both in manner and matter, by those who, before it started, considered themselves first among the agricultural community. In thus doing, they doubtless show their wisdom; but it is a tacit acknowledgement on their part of our superiority an advantage which we shall be careful to maintain, and thus ever keep ourselves in advance, and justly merit the preference of our countrymen. Who, then, will not be a subscriber to the American Agriculturist, and enjoy while they may, the benefits of a perusal of its pages? DISEASES OF SHEEP. CURE FOR HOVEN.—Take & lb. of lard, 1 pint of milk, boil both down to a pint, mixing them well together. Give half of this immediately at blood heat, and the remainder soon after. Another. Give 1 gill of urine with as much salt as it will dissolve. TO MAKE A SHEEP OWN A LAMB.-Milk all over the lamb and under his tail, and rub it on well, then tie up the ewe head and body. Another. Rub the liver, and light, and contents of the stomach of the dead lamb over the new lamb, and put the skin of the dead lamb to the adopted one. CURE FOR STRETCHES.-Sheep sometimes stretch out their noses on the ground and around by their side as if in severe pain. This is frequently occasioned by an involution of a part of the intestine within another, called, when occurring in the human subject, inter susceptio. Immediate relief is afforded when this last is the cause, by lifting up the animal by the hind legs, and shaking them a few times, when the pain disappears. All the above are furnished us by a friend who has long been practically engaged in rearing sheep. We solicit a continuation of such from all who are practically acquainted with the subject on which they write. BENEFITS OF SALT AS MANURE. WE have recently been perusing several EuroHoven arises from eating an excess of wet clo-pean articles, detailing experiments made with ver. This should be avoided by keeping the animals from clover fields which are drenched with rain or heavy dews, especially when particularly hungry. CURE FOR SCAB.-To 1 lb. tobacco, add 12 qts. ley from wood-ashes of suitable strength for washing, and 4 qts. urine. To this mixture add a second of 1 gill high wines, oz. camphor, Spanish brown, and gill spirits of turpentine. The application to be made to the sore, and it has never been known to fail. salt as a manure, and from them we have made the following brief synopsis of its utility. It attracts the humid vapors and repels frost, and thus assists in keeping the land moist in dry weather, and warm in cold. It keeps everything in the soil in a soft and soluble state, and assists to digest and prepare the food for vegetable nutrioz. tion. It destroys many kinds of vermin and weeds, and usually increases the amount of the crop from one fourth to one third; strengthens the growth of everything to which it is applied, and brings all crops earlier to harvest. It generally adds from 5 to 7 bushels per acre to the yield of wheat used in most moderate quantity, and in all kinds of grain s more ear and less straw. Mr. George Sinclair obtained at Woburn, on plots of 36 square feet, at the rate of 70 to 95 bushels of wheat per acre, by the use of salt mixed with other manures. It is found equally beneficial to pasture as well as root crops, sweetening all vege CURE FOR FOOT ROT.-Pare the foot well and scrape it thoroughly; then add to a wineglass full of spirits of antimony, a piece of blue vitriol] the size of a walnut dissolved in a little urine; rub this well on with a stick. If a sheep is very bad, and foot festering or gangrenous, take the yolk of two eggs, mix with one or two oz. gum turpentine, and stir them till they make a salve. Put on the salve after you have applied the first tation, and making it more wholesome for man | much in the same manner as for Indian corn. In and beast. It is a great safeguard against blast, this country, where the land requires manuring, rust, mildew, and indeed all the diseases of grain that from the barnyard is usually resorted to. In and vegetables. Europe, they not only use the barnyard manure, but fish, salt, composts of different kinds, woollen rags, and indeed most any fertilizing substances; such as abound in oily matter are sought after with great avidity for dressing the hop-garden. Salt is inoperative applied near the seashore, where salt water or spray is already in excess on the land; but every where else it is beneficial. It may be used at the rate of 5 to 40 bushels per acre, though 10 to 20 bushels is better. It can be sown broadcast on the land, or be incorporated in the manure or compost heap. Mr. Prideaux informs us, that mixed with lime and its compounds it undergoes decomposition, producing soda or its combination with carbonic acid, or with humus; all more powerful digesters and feeders than the salt itself; and the muriate of lime, which has the strongest attraction for moisture of almost anything known. Salt and lime work vegetable matters to decay quicker than salt alone. With gypsum it will supply soda and sulphuric acid cheaper than any other material, besides the muriate of lime, so valuable for its moistening quality. In 1839 we commenced a series of experiments with salt; but soon after, being called to a distant part of the country, and returning to our farm only at long intervals, they were not carried out with that particularity which they ought to have been. Sufficient, however, was known to prove, that applied at the rate of 10 bushels per acre to grass and vegetables, it made them much more sweet and nutritious, and added as near as it could be estimated, about one fifth to the first crop of grass cut for hay, and full one half to the growth of the aftermath, and increased the vegetable crop about one fourth in its yield. When salt can be obtained cheap we recommend its use. We have seen thousands of gallons of fish and other brine thrown away in our towns and cities, which would be well worth saving and adding to the manure heap. CULTURE OF HOPS. SOIL. The best soil for the hop is a gravelly or sandy loam, moderately rich, and if it abound in calcareous matter so much the better. If the soil be too fertile, the hop runs too much to vine, and is troublesome to be taken care of, and the heads, though abundant, grow small; on the other hand, if too poor, unless highly manured, there will not be a sufficient crop to pay the expenses of cultivation. PREPARATION FOR A CROP.-The hop-field should be prepared for a crop by plowing, harrowing, &c., ROOTS FOR PLANTING.-The best way to obtain the roots is, as soon as spring opens, to plow within a foot of the centre of the hill on each of its four sides, then with a hoe lay bare the roots, and select those only of the last year's growth, cutting them off about 18 inches long. These are what are called trimmings, and are necessary to be taken from the old hop-roots every year, whether required for new plantings or not. As these trimmings will not be wanted for several weeks after cutting, for planting the new hop-field, they can be kept by burying them in a heap in the ground, or by placing them in a cellar. * PLANTING. After the ground is well plowed and harrowed, strike out the rows 6 feet apart each way, running north and south, and east and west; then take a spade and dig out a hole for planting 8 inches deep, and 1 to 2 feet in diameter, and if the ground be not already sufficiently rich, put a shovel full or two of well-rotted manure or rich compost into the hole, still leaving it about six inches deep. Now select three roots, and cross them in the hole thus, and cover them with about six inches of earth, leaving the ground level over them. If not crossed as above when planted, so as to give the roots a compact form in the holes they spread too much, and send up their shoots in a wide straggling manner, and it will be difficult to confine them within a proper space for poling. About the time of corn planting, or a little before, is the best period for setting out the hop roots. After they are set out, a corn or root crop can be planted between each row. AFTER CULTIVATION.—In a week or ten days, the hops will make their appearance, and the cultivation the first year will consist in merely keeping the weeds down, and the ground well stirred, which is usually done while cultivating the crop which may be planted between the rows of hops. Neither hilling nor poling is necessary; for although the vines frequently produce hops, the crop is not worth harvesting. MANAGEMENT THE SECOND YEAR.-If the ground be not sufficiently rich, as soon as the spring opens, the hop-field should receive a dressing of rotted manure or compost, spread broadcast between the | pearance, but those which spring up first should rows, or incorporated in the hill as is thought most not generally be saved for bearing. The reason advisable. This last operation is performed by is that they shoot out of that part of the root opening the ground a few inches near the roots, nearest to the top of the earth, and though their and mixing the soil with the dressing. After this growth is at first very promising, they do not enthe poling is performed as soon as possible, so as dure, but soon die; nor are they usually as good not to injure the vines which will soon start from bearers as the others which subsequently follow; the roots and show themselves above the earth. these should therefore be cut away, or what is better, scrape the earth off slightly from the hills, then break down these first rank vines and cover them with earth; by so doing, they rapidly decompose and become food to the other vines which are left to grow. Another objection to cutting them off is, that they are rather apt to bleed and do the vines great injury. POLES. It is important to have these of as durable a kind of wood as possible consistent with other requisites. Cedar would undoubtedly be the best if it had a thriftier growth. The staddles of chestnut, pine, tamerack, and several other of our forest-trees answer very well, but hemlock upon the whole is preferred when it can be had. They should be cut in the winter season, before there is the least danger of the bark peeling, and from thickets where they grow up smooth, slender, and tall; be about three inches in diameter at the butt, and 25 to 30 feet long. Immediately after cutting, take an instrument made for the purpose, something like the carpenter's drawing-knife, only thicker and shorter, and make according to its size, from four to six slits from one half to an inch wide in the bark, on each pole down its sides the whole length. The object of this is to get rid of all knots, and make the pole smooth for handling and picking. The bark which is left on the pole is necessary in order to keep the hop-vines up; when grown on a perfectly smooth pole, they are apt to slip down about the hill. The poles ought to be cut one year previous to using them, and be placed under cover till they become dry; they are then much lighter to handle, and endure longer. As fast as they are cut, sharpen the end about one foot in length which goes into the ground. TYING UP.-Allow two vines to each pole, which would make four to each hill. When the vines get about two feet long, take all those as near the same size as possible, then turn them round the pole with the course of the sun, and tie up. The best material for this purpose is woollen yarn, as anything stronger is apt to injure them. The tyers take an old stocking leg, slip it over the left arm, and thus go through the field performing their work, unravelling the yarn as fast as wanted. The tie must not be a knot properly, but a twist together of the ends. This stays as effectually as tying, and the superiority of the twist is, that as the vine grows, it gradually gives way, and accommodates the thread to the growth of the vine. As the vine above the last joints at the end is very green and tender, and easily injured, it must be tied below these, say between the second and third joints. Every time that the wind blows with any strength it displaces more or less of the ends of the vines, one must therefore go over the field when these occur, and replace them around STICKING. For the purpose of making holes for the poles, and add more ties if necessary. When sticking the poles, a cast-iron bar is used one foot the vine gets so high that it can not be reached long, three inches in diameter at the top, and run- from the ground, a step is used to get at them, or ning to a point at the lower end. This iron what is better, as the work is rapidly executed. weighs about six pounds, and is cast with a sock-mount a steady horse, and thus ride through the et in the top, into which a handle three feet long is inserted, and it is far superior to a common iron bar for the purpose designed. The hop rows should if possible always run north and south, and two poles be stuck in each hill, two feet deep, and standing two feet apart on the southeast and northwest sides of the hill thus,The line here is the hop row running field tying up. AFTER CULTURE.-Immediately after tying up the vines, start the plow, and give a sufficient number of furrows each way between the rows; then follow with the hoes, cutting up all the weeds, and slightly hilling. Each hoer should have the stocking leg on his arm, prepared, after finishing hoeing, to tie up any vine which may north and south; the circle is the hill; and the need it. The second or third time hoeing, predots on each side the positions of the poles. VINES TO BE SAVED FOR BEARING.-Soon after po.ing is performed, the vines make a rapid ap cede with the cultivator, and finish off with the hoe, not hilling this time, but leaving the ground as nearly level as possible. Any poles falling COCUS ON ORANGE-TREES.-SUBSOIL PLOWING. down should be immediately set up again; otherwise, by lying on the ground the hops rot and become worthless. 69 gine, with which one person can throw a column of water 60 feet horizontally, or 50 feet perpendicular, and completely inundate a large orangetree in five minutes. The cost of these here is $45, and they are very strong and complete, and will last a long time-being worth a dozen of those sold from $15 to $20, in their effect and duration. A correspondent from Florida informs us that saltpetre destroys them, when sulphuric acid has been tried in vain. He does not give the method of applying it. We request the attention of our southern friends to smoking, as applied by S. S. on PICKING. For this purpose a box is used 10 to 15 feet long, 3 feet high, 2 feet wide at the bottom, and 3 feet wide at the top. This is formed by making a light frame first, and then nailing pine boards to it. A handle is placed at each end of the box so as to be able to move it easily about. At the time of picking, this is carried into the field, and a naked pole placed on the middle of each end, running the whole length of the box, for the hop poles to rest on crosswise when pick-peach-trees. See page 74 of this No. Syringing ing. In September, as soon as the hops begin to turn a little brown, and before the heavy frosts set in, the picking commences. Cut off the vines near the ground, pull up the poles as fast as wanted, and commence picking, taking care to keep the hops in the shade as much as possible, otherwise they wilt rapidly and lose strength and color. For the same reason the poles ought not to be taken up faster than wanted for picking. Pile the poles in convenient heaps with the vines on as fast as stripped of the hops. At noon, all the hops which have been picked in the morning are taken to the kilns for drying; and at night, all those picked in the afternoon. If left longer than a few hours before being put to drying, they are apt to heat and become injured. we believe the most effectual method if followed up perseveringly with the garden engine. SUBSOIL PLOWING. WE are highly gratified to observe an increased attention to subsoil plowing, for we consider if it could be generally introduced among us, it would be found one of the greatest agricultural improvements of the age. In volume I, page 199, we gave full details of the successful operation of the subsoil plow in England, where it was shown, that by its use, crops may be doubled without adding a particle of fertilizing materials to the land. Two years subsequent experience by the farmers of that the free use of the subsoil plow, for grain as well country, corroborate the benefits to be derived by the Cornwall Agricultural Association, that he as root crops. Mr. Tilley recently asserted before had the past year raised hundreds of roots of mangel-wurzel, weighing 25 lbs. each; that the crop of these per acre, as well as carrots and turneps, was at least doubled by subsoil plowing. The season of picking is a very jovial one among the rural population. It must be done in fine weather, and as it is light, pretty work, all the girls of the neighborhood turn out for this purpose; their part of the work being to pick the hops from the vines, while the young men pull up the poles, Five years ago we had a piece of land containpile them away when stripped of their burden, and ing 24 acres of a hard clay soil, which, with the move the boxes from place to place. Songs and best tales lighten the labor, and a general merrimented less than 150 bushels of potatoes to the acre, management we could bestow upon it, yieldprevails. We have known quite as many sturdy and 400 of sugar-beet—while parsneps, carrots, or swains' hearts lost, and fair maidens, too, during any long roots, it would scarcely grow. We had just heard of Mr. Smith's subsoil plow in Scotland, and determined upon an experiment. We had no plow of this description, nor could we then obCOCUS ON ORANGE-TREES. tain one; we accordingly took the mould-board We hear of the continued ravages of these little off from a large, strong road plow, and used the insects at the south, and are again called upon by point of the share alone for subsoiling. We plowour correspondents for remedies. We know ofed the land in the fall of the year, by taking a comnothing more effectual than syringing as recom- mon plow and one yoke of cattle, and turning over mended page 54 of our second Volume, and for a surface furrow six inches deep. We then followthis purpose pure water is said to be just as good ed directly after this in the same furrow, with as that mixed with ley and soap, or ammoniacal three yoke of cattle attached to the road plow, liquor. All that is necessary is a good garden en- stirring the soil eight inches deeper, making four the hop-picking season, as at apple-parings, husk ings, and quiltings. teen in all. This we then bountifully limed, and the merits of the marls thus applied, as their full the next spring as bountifully manured and plant- effects frequently do not show themselves till the ed it with roots, and the following autumn obtain-second and third years. ed over 1,100 bushels of sugar-beet to the acre from it, and other crops in proportion. Subsoil plows may now be had in this city, of excellent pattern and strongly constructed, from $10 to $15 each, which will stir the earth from 12 to 18 inches deep, requiring from two to five yoke of cattle to move them, according to the nature of the soil, and the depth required to plow. MARL. WE occasionally hear of the ill-success of apply ing marl to land, and have recently read an ac If our farmers would form themselves into clubs or associations, each contributing the small sum of one dollar a year, they might not only have the benefit of analysis of soils, but many other things. Political clubs are forming all over the land, and the people going half crazy with the idea of who shall be our next President. This to be sure is an important matter, especially when vital principles of government are concerned in the election; bat is not the advancement of agricultural knowledge the great mass of the farmers of the United States equally so? May we live to see that day, when will feel the necessity of informing themselves by books as well as by practice of all that regards their vocation. CULTURE OF ASPARAGUS. SINCE the Spanish method of cultivating aspara gus by the seashore has become known in England, a complete change has taken place in the manner of growing it there, salt being added now in moderate quantities to the manure used to enrich the beds; it is also spread broadcast upon them, at the rate of 1 to 3 lbs. per square yard, after forking them over in the spring. This makes it much more palatable and tender. The month of April in this climate, or soon after the frost is well out of the ground, is the best time to apply the salt dressing to the beds. A compost of horse manure, mixed with leaves and vegetable mould from the woods, together with a little charcoal, is one of the best manures we ever made use of for enriching the asparagus bed. count of quite a noted instance of this kind in South Carolina. Now marls vary greatly in their composition, and must be judiciously used, or they will do injury rather than good. To a sandy soil, clay marl is the best; and to a clay soil, such as abounds most with sand should be applied. Sometimes the land has already lime enough in it; under such circumstances, marl abounding largely with lime may be a misapplication; again, the soil to be fertilized may be greatly deficient in lime, and the marl which is applied to it equally so; it would be preposterous to expect, then, that the marl would prove of any benefit unless it contained other fertilizing substances. Any one can easily tell from the appearance of marl whether it abounds most with clay or sand, and if they discover a considerable quantity of shells in it, those of course are nearly all lime. When the lime is so finely mixed in the marl as to be imperceptible to the eye, its presence can be ascertained by putting a small quantity of it into a tumbler or wineglass, and pouring a little muriatic acid, spirit of Visiting Dr. King's fine farm at Perth Amboy, salt, or vinegar upon it, then if there be any boil- last summer, we were walking with him one ing up, or rising of bubbles of gas, it contains lime. morning along its boundaries on the bay, when So small a quantity as ten per cent. of lime in the within a few yards of the water on a slight ridge marl can be thus detected, especially with muri- of sand, which was subject to be wet by the salt atic acid. Previous to applying marls, however, spray, and inundated by a high tide, Dr. King they ought to be carefully analysed by a good pointed out to us a natural asparagus bed; and chemist. We have known persons expend $50 | although it was late in the season for this vegeworth of labor in misapplying marl, when an | table, and most of this before us too much grown analysis of it would have only cost them $5, and they might thus have saved $45. Where marls abound, and their certain effects are not already known, and no person is in the neighborhood capable of giving an opinion upon their merits, it would be well for the farmer to make an application of them at first on a few square rods only of land, where different crops are growing. He must not, however, be in a hurry to decide upon for good cuttings, upon our mentioning to him the Spanish method of cultivating it, he directed some of this to be cut and cooked for dinner. To our surprise, notwithstanding it was so old, it proved very delicate and palatable, and completely satisfied us that its superior taste was owing to the salt dressing it received from the sea-water. Gardeners, in the interior of the country, will do well to try the experiment here recommended |