St. Jean, and leaving the road to Nivelles on the right, we proceed in the direction of Genappe and· Charleroi, and soon after arrive at the farm of Mont St. Jean, which was immediately in the rear of the centre of the British line. Proceeding further on the road to Charleroi, we arrive at La Belle Alliance, a farm-house and hamlet situate on the opposite ridge, and corresponding with the farm of Mont St. Jean. This is the extent of the scene of the tourist's observation.

memory of the duke, his father, who was mortally wounded at the battle of Jena. During the night this division of the troops fell back upon Waterloo to join the Duke of Wellington, commander-in-chief of the Anglo-Belgian army, who had his head-quarters in that village; his troops were posted in front of the Forest of Soignies, on the 17th, the Duke's horse (not Copenhagen) was shot under him; in the evening, he rode 14 miles to have a private meeting with Blücher at Wavre. The English position occupied a line of about one mile and a half in length, the centre being in front of the farmhouse of Mont St. Jean; the left extending to a hamlet called Smouken, and a farm-house named Papelotte, and having in front the farm of La Haye - Sainte, whence a succession of broken roads formed a precarious communication with Blücher's position at Wavre; and the right stretch

He had

of artillery, passed the Sambre, and having defeated some regiments of Prussians, took possession of Charleroi, a town, at that time, without defence. On the 16th they advanced into the plains of Fleurus, where the fate of Belgium has thrice been decided, and at Ligny attacked the Prussian army, whose commander, Field-Marshal Blücher, narrowly escaped being taken prisoner. been thrown from his horse in the midst of the action, when surrounded on all sides by the pursuing enemy, whose precipitation alone prevented their recognising the marshal's person. A momentary repulse of the French by a body of Prussian cavalry, afforded Blücher time to be extricated from his perilous situation and mounted

on a dragoon's horse. The French took some picces

of artillery and remained masters of the field. Blücher made a good retreat to Wavre. While these operations were rapidly carrying on, a strong column of French troops advanced towards Quatre Bras, a point of junction of four roads, nearly twenty miles from Brussels, on the road to Charleroi, where the Prince of Orange was posted with a division of Belgian and British troops.

A warm action took place, in which the young prince displayed the greatest bravery and ability, and the Duke of Brunswick was killed at the head of his famous Black Brunswickers, so called from wearing a black uniform, out of respect to the

The

tion in a semicircular slope backwards until the extreme flank rested on Marke-Braine, where it was protected by a ravine. The right of the British army, extending along the same eminence, occupied and protected the Nivelles Road as far as the enclosures of Hougoumont. ground in front of the British position sloped easily down into lower ground, forming a sort of valley-not a level plain, but a declivity, varied by many gentle sweeps and hollows, as if formed The ground then by the course of a river. ascends in the same manner to a ridge opposite to that of Mont St. Jean, and running parallel to it at the distance of twelve or fourteen hundred yards. This was the position of the French. The valley between the two ridges is entirely open and uninclosed, and on that memorable day bore a tall and strong crop of corn. But in the centre of the valley, about half way between the two ridges, and situated considerably to the right of the English centre, was the Château de Goumont, or Hougoumont. This was a gentleman's house of the old Flemish architecture, having a tower and battlements. It was surrounded on one side by a large farm-yard, and on the other opening to a garden and orchard, and faced by a brick wall: the whole encircled by a grove of tall trees. This Château, with the advantages afforded by its wood and orchard, formed a strong point d'appui to the British right wing.

The château was occupied by a detachment of the guards under Lord Saltoun. The French army was full two miles in length, extending along the opposite ridge, and having La Belle Alliance in the centre of their line. Napoleon at this time had about 100,000 men with him; and the allies about 70,000, exclusive of the Prussians. Here took place, on the 18th of June, the sanguinary battle by which the fate of Europe was decided. It began at eleven o'clock in the morning and continued till seven in the evening. The boldness and pertinacity exhibited by the French troops in their repeated attacks have few parallels in history; whilst the English received each successive shock with the coolest and most determined intrepidity. The French army was preparing to make a last assault, when the Prussian general, Blücher, appeared on their flanks, at the head of two divisions. A frightful panic then spread through the French ranks, and Bonaparte, abandoned by fortune, whose idol he had so often seemed, was hurried from the field by the impetuous torrent of fugitives. All the French artillery, a great part of the baggage, and even the private carriage of Napoleon fell into the hands of the victors. This victory, however, was dearly purchased. The loss to the victors was great indeed. Beside Generals Picton and Ponsonby, the loss of the British and Hanoverians on the 16th and 18th, amounted to not less than 13,000 men and 750 officers, the flower of the army, of whom more than two-thirds fell at Waterloo; the total loss of the Prussians, from the commencement of the campaign, to their second triumphant entry into Paris, has been officially stated at 38,000; but that of the French almost exceed belief. They began the day between 155,000 to 160,000 strong; and from their own account the wreck of the army when it was collected together did not amount to 60,000 men. Who can think of this work of human destruction without a thrill of horror at the dreadful havoc of modern warfare, or what man would hesitate to adopt the christian principles of peace and good will, with the view of averting such inhuman conflicts as these scenes have witnessed, or of which these plains were the theatre. From that moment the village of

Waterloo became an object of interesting euriosity to travellers of all nations, but above all to the English, who contemplate, with a melan. choly pride, fields which have been moistened with the life-springs of so many of their fellow countrymen.

Having briefly traced the momentous events that will long continue to impart a powerful interest to the plains of Waterloo, we proceed to point out such particular land-marks as may serve to give the tourist a correct idea of the positions taken by the contending armies during the contest, and, with the assistance of a few details, enable him to ascertain the precise spot of many heroic deeds. For this purpose, it is necessary to retrace our steps, in order to commence with the Forest of Soignies. The forest commences Я mile and three-quarters from the village, and after presenting every variety of sylvan scenery, comes to an end a little beyond Waterloo. The principal road through the wood to this village is of great length and extreme regularity; but the unvarying, uniform appearance of the trees which fringe it, give a sombre aspect to the route. The Forest, which is about seven to eight miles in breadth, and nine miles in length, contains many defiles, and is interspersed with lakes, vales, brooks, hamlets, and cultivated plains. Great quantities of oak were felled by command of Bonaparte, in order to supply the dockyards at Amsterdam; but the forest still abounds in fine timber, and a thousand acres of it, which belong to the Duke of Wellington, are said to yield a revenue of forty francs an acre. The proximity of this immense mass of wood to Brussels, renders the city somewhat damp and cold when the wind blows from that quarter; on the other hand, from its great attractive powers, thunder-clouds frequently discharge themselves there, which might otherwise carry heavy storms into the town. Nearly at the extremity of the forest, and about ten miles from Brussels, stands Waterloo,

as before-mentioned.

Mont St. Jean.-This hamlet, which, as beforementioned, is more than a mile from Waterloo, at a place where the road divides into two branches, of which that on the left leads to Genappe, and

that on the right to Nivelles, must not be confounded by the tourist with the farm-house of Mont St. Jean. half a mile in advance of the village, on the road to the farm of La Haye Sainte, which was in the immediate rear of the British position. From this farm an easy ascent leads to the ridge which formed the line of occupation of the British army. Near the centre of this ridge stood the Wellington Tree, so called in consequence of the duke having, it is said, taken his station there during part of the 18th. It was cut down and sold in 1821. In front is a little valley, irregularly formed, with numerous gentle windings and hollows, and varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the murderous conflict. The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mont St. Jean, were occupied by the French. stupendous triumphal Mound of a conical shape, surmounted by a colossal Belgian Lion in bronze. was constructed at the expense of the Netherlands government on the plains of St. Jean. The base of the monument is 160 yards in diameter, and the height of the whole nearly 50 yards.

A

La Haye Sainte-This is the name of a large farm-house on the road from Mont St. Jean to La Belle Alliance, and about a mile from the former place, on the Genappe road. It was in the left centre of the British position, and a little in advance of Wellington's Tree. In the immediate vicinity of this house, which received much injury, in all directions, and especially in what forms the back part of the building, the hottest conflict raged between the combatants. It was taken by the French army on the day, and maintained by them until nearly the end of the battle. On the side of the building towards the road a monument has been erected to the memory of some officers of the 2nd German Legion, who fell in the onslaught; and at a little distance, on the opposite side of the road, is a hollow way, where 4,000 men and a great number of horses were buried in one common grave. Near this spot fell Sir Thomas Picton, leading a gallant charge on the French cuirassiers.

Hougoumont.-The large farm-house or château, so called, was fiercely contested. It is situated. on the right of La Haye Sainte from Waterloo, at the distance of about a mile from the former place The British had possession of the house and gar

dens, and fought with a desperate courage to maintain it; while the French. led on by Jerome Bonaparte, who, though wounded in the arm, still kept the field, made equal efforts to expel them, aware that, if they became masters of the place, the whole of the British lines would be exposed to their fire. It was, in fact, the key-stone of the British position. The garden was protected on three sides by a strong wall, which served our troops as a breast-work, and from behind which they aimed at the assailants with deadly certainty; the unprotected part commanded a view of the Duke of Wellington's position on the heights. In vain the enemy made repeated attempts to scale the garden wall from the adjoining orchard, and though they thrice entered the gates of Hougoumont, they were as often repulsed, and driven out with severe loss. At length, after a destructive artillery fire, and the most frightful carnage, the French succeeded in setting the place on fire, and great numbers of killed and wounded on both sides were buried in the ruins. The place was entirely destroyed, with the exception of the chapel and an out-house, which escaped almost uninjured. Many of the surrounding trees were cut in two, while others were completely perforated with balls. A large but rudely-carved figure of the Saviour is placed over the altar in the Chapel, which is very small, and by no means curious.

La Belle Alliance.-A small farm-house, so called, and serving as an inn of the humblest kind, is situated about three-quarters of a mile from La Haye Sainte, on the road to Genappe. It was here that the Duke of Wellington and Prince Blücher met on the evening of the day of battle. Having exchanged greetings and congratulations, the duke retired on his position, and Blücher went in pursuit of the flying enemy. Bonaparte posted his favourite guard in front of this place, and never approached in person nearer to La Haye Sainte than the hollow part of the ground between that place and La Belle Alliance and the main road. The Prussians have erected a Monument in iron near this spot, to commemorate the success of their army.

Marke Braine. This small place is on the right of the village of Mont St. Jer about a mile from it. The British

the right, commanded by Major-General Humber, was posted on this part of the field; but no event occurred to render the spot memorable.

The ground where the battle was fought produced the best crops in Belgium for many years after the sanguinary event. Over the spot where lay smouldering in ashes the broken fragments of humanity, sacrificed at the shrine of cruel, remorseless war, the green corn of spring waved luxuriantly, and in summer time shot forth its golden ear full of grain, nourished by the dust of

friend and foe.

Ramillies (page 49) is not far off from the field; and in 1705, Marlborough was nearly fighting a battle at Frischermont, hard by.

"But where I stood, beneath the fresh green tree,
Which, living, waves where thou didst cease to live,
And saw around me the wide fields revive
With fruits and fertile promise, and the spring
Come forth her work of gladness to contrive,
With all her reckless birds upon the wing,

I turned from all she brought to those she could not bring."

"Was it a soothing or a mournful thought,
Amid this scene of slaughter, as we stood,
Where armies had with recent fury fought,
To mark how gentle nature still pursued
Her quiet course, as if she took no care

For what her noblest work had suffered there."

BYRON.

SOUTHEY.

A large and fortified town, 38 miles from Brussels, the chief town of the province of Hainault. Population, 24,160. The river Trouille divides it into two parts, and is partly overlooked by the mound of the Panina. It is said that Julius Cæsar built a castle here, which, taking the name of Castrum Cæsaris, formed the beginning of the town of Mons,and was destroyed by the barbarians in the fifth century. Alberic, Count of Hainault,

There are several other pretty places to which Excursions could be made with pleasure from Brussels, such as Forest, Trois Fontaines, Tervouren, Saventhem (see page 65), and the Central House of Correction, on the rail to Vilvorde. It is on the same plan as the model prisons constructed during the last forty years in England and the United States. The prison can contain 2,000 prisoners. There are, however, some special features connected with the Belgian system which will interest those who study these matters. The old Chareau, on the site of which this prison was originally erected. also answered the same purpose, but only for state offenders. Madame Deshouliers, the pastoral poetess, was a prisoner of state here in

1657.

it with walls. In 804, Charlemagne formed it into the capital of a province. Mons after this became the scene of many troubles. Under the reign of Charles V. it had its highest degree of prosperity; the manufactures of cloth and serge were carried on to a great extent. Iron was wrought here to great advantage, and the beauty of their chased jewellery excited the admiration of strangers. Under the French Republic, Mons became the The fortifications, department of Jemappes.

rebuilt in 1815, upon a new plan, are preserved with much care. The streets are steep, but wide, clean, and in good repair. The monuments and curiosities are numerous, and worthy of attention.

Mons was the natal town of Orlando Lassus,

a celebrated musician of the sixteenth century. Ten miles south of Mons, within the French territories, is the spot where was fought the sanguinary battle of Malplaquet, at which the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene conquered the French and lost on the battle field 20,000 men.