482 DESCENT OF THE NILE. CCCLVIII. We now turned the prow of our kandjia homeward, and began to descend the Nile. In retracing our steps, and revisiting places recently beheld, there is doubtless less excitement than when, at every step, the eye is greeted by objects totally new. But, on the other hand, there are many advantages. As no man is proof against the allurements of novelty, the first impressions made upon our imaginations frequently require to be corrected by more mature examination. Both of us found this to be the case. On several points relative to objects we had seen together, our notions were different; and upon the whole we did not regret that the plan of travelling, imposed on us by the nature of the country afforded, could we profit by them, opportunities of greatly reducing the number of errors we might have made. Besides, having prudently taken care to reserve, until our return, many of the principal curiosities and ruins for the sake of which these countries are visited, our enthusiasm had experienced scarcely any abatement. Like individuals who again pass over by day some region previously traversed by the light of the stars or moon, we found, in many cases, the interest and value of the scene increase. Philæ, Eilithyias, Apollinopolis Magna, Thebes, Lycopolis, the site of the Labyrinth, the beautiful Nome of Arsinoë, and the mysterious Lake of Moris, with many others, yet remained to be explored. Still, therefore, there was novelty; and though I abandoned with regret the design of penetrat VILLAGE OF FARAS. 483 ing into the regions of Central Africa, there were yet before me monuments more worthy to excite and occupy a rational curiosity than any thing which could possibly be found in countries where civilisation has left no trace of her footsteps. CCCLIX. In descending the valley of the Nile, every object appeared equally interesting as when first beheld; for the eye, instead of growing weary, had learned to delight in the wild scenery, in which it daily discovered beauties and peculiarities not at first discernible. The increasing heat, moreover, of the days and nights, resembling that of June at Malta or Naples, augmented our pleasure. The sky this evening presented an unusual appearance: small clouds, jet black, or of a fine agate colour, sprinkled over the violet and orange ground of the firmament, imparted an additional beauty to the whole; and the Nile, like an Alpine lake at the same hour, was flushed with a mixture of saffron, pink, and bright rose colour. CCCLX. It was dark when we reached Faras; but having learned that in the neighbourhood there exists a tomb or temple, not hitherto described, we proceeded to the village in search of a guide, accompanied by Suleiman and Bakhíd. Faras is situated on the lofty bank of the river, in the midst of a straggling grove of date trees, and sandy mounds; its high walled houses, and clay-built battlements, presenting by moonlight a bold and striking appearance. Here, 484 VILLAGE OF FARAS. only, in Lower Nubia, the hippopotamus is still found. By day he never emerges from the Nile; but when the husbandmen are retired to rest, and a general silence prevails, he rears his huge bulk out of the water, and, ascending the banks, feeds until morning among the corn fields. The villagers seemed to have been long asleep, for there was no sound in the streets, or a light in any window; and we walked about for some time, knocking in vain at several doors; suspicion of our intentions, or other motives, restraining them from answering to our call. At length, however, the pilot, apparently well known in every village from Wady Halfa to EsSouan, found some one who recognised his voice; and in a few minutes four men came forth, offering to be our guides to the ruins. CCCLXI. Though the temple, hypogeum, or sepulchre we were in quest of, is situated in the western desert, at a considerable distance from the village, our guides, having been acquainted with the neighbourhood from childhood, could have found their way to the spot blind-fold. The appearance of the desert, always interesting, always new, seemed, on this occasion, more magnificent than ever. all sides, to the very verge of the horizon, shining sand-hills, partly covered with tamarisks and acacias, roughened the waste, whose interminable surface appeared, in the bright light of a tropical moon, to be covered with a deep fall of snow; and our footsteps, falling noiselessly upon the sand, likewise On MOONLIGHT IN THE DESERT. 485 favoured the illusion. The splendour also of the stars and moon was indescribably beautiful, recalling to mind the matchless description in the Iliad, where the poet compares with the lights of the firmament the innumerable watch-fires flashing on the Trojan plain. Οἱ δὲ, μέγα φρονέοντες, ἐπὶ πτολέμοιο γεφύρ The dusky hollows, the narrow ravines, the white peaks of the sand-hills glittering in the distance, the boundless expanse of the wilderness, the beauty and absolute stillness of the night, unbroken even by the bark of a jackal, were circumstances in strict accordance with the magnificent picture of Homer. * Which Pope has rendered into English with infinite felicity: — « The troops exulting sate in order round, O'er heaven's clear azure spreads her sacred light, CCCLXII. Our guides, wrapped, like Moggrebyns, in white burnooses, tripped lightly before us, laughing and talking in a language of which not even my interpreter could comprehend a single syllable. The hour appeared to be a long one: valley, ravine, and sandy plain were successively traversed; we were already far out in the desert; and no ruin appeared. When questioned by the pilot, the Nubians replied that we had still some distance to travel. It was late: the suspicion crossed our minds that they had lost their way, in which case we might wander all night in the wilderness in the vain search of so small an object as a temple. They seemed, however, to be perfectly confident in their knowledge, never looking about them, or appearing a jot more at a loss than if they had been travelling over an English highway. CCCLXIII. At length, after a walk of nearly two hours, we reached a narrow sandy valley, between two low hills; and here, our guides informed us, was the temple we were in search of. On carefully scrutinising the appearance of the place, however, we could perceive neither wall nor column. It was clear, therefore, that if any structure existed, it must be subterranean; and accordingly, after a short search, we discovered, in the face of the rocks, evidently smoothed by art, a small triangular opening, leading into the interior of the hill. A light was quickly struck, and while the Nubians, who had no curiosity to gratify, sat down on the sand near the entrance, we crept in, and found ourselves in the chamber of |