fere, though he had no objection to any vessel that happened to be near the spot, extricating them. My best plan then will be to apply again to Captain Hamilton. A French merchant of Zante, who had just come from the Turkish camp, and was with me in quarantine, said there was an English doctor whom he expected over from Prevesa, who would, he had no doubt, engage to go to the cave; and as the Turkish fleet, blockading Missolonghi now occupied the Gulf of Lepanto, it was the only remaining chance, unless one of our vessels would undertake to go.

13th. Mr. Manly Power of the 85th, who had been on a cruise with Captain Hamilton, came into quarantine, which made our time pass as pleasantly as a state of forced confinement could allow. Having come to Zante on board a ship of war, the days we passed at sea were counted, and we had only nine days captivity to endure.

There was a captain of a Tribacalo, an adventurous fellow, whom, if I determined on going up the Gulf, I could engage; and I wrote to Captain Maclean, to ask, as I had now left the Greek service, if I was not entitled to a passport, as a trusty, loyal, and well-beloved subject of Great Britain. To redeem my losses, I purposed commencing trader, and forthwith to hire a good ship to go up the Gulf of Lepanto, there to freight what goods might prove most advantageous; for which voyage I requested a passport to pass unmolested through the sublime Sultan's dominions. Captain Maclean answered, he did not think the colonel would feel himself at liberty to give me a passport for those parts; for, as I was so well-known a character, I could not pass without being recognized; but that he would speak to Captain Hamilton, who was then outside the bay, about the cave affair. I also wrote to Colonel Napier, who was known to Trelawney, to request his influence. The most effectual means of accomplishing my object to aid Trelawney, was certainly to get an English vessel to undertake his rescue, though not so perilous and dashing a manner of effecting it, as if, at all hazards, I attempted to accomplish it by myself; but success was too uncertain not to determine me, in common prudence, to wait first the event of what Captain Hamilton might determine to do.

The 21st was the day of our emancipation from quarantine, and, accepting Captain Maclean's offer to take up my quarters with him, I once more entered into civilized society, after so long a period passed in adventurous life. I exchanged my gay Albanian for the demure Franc dress. On the 3d of August, I learnt last, that the Sparrowhawk had gone for Trelawney, and Major Bacon, who had visited the cave soon after I had left it, accompanied them; there was then no longer a doubt of their succeeding. When British tars put their hand to a work, one is sure that what man can do will be done. I was now requested to accompany Captain Demetrius Miaoulis on his mission to England, and I willingly embraced the opportunity of returning so advantageously; and on the 15th, leaving Zante again, to cross over to the Morea, as the admiral's brig Cimone was then lying off Clarenza,—on the 16th we sailed for England, and arrived on the 3d of October at Portsmouth. On Mr.Emerson's and Mr. Tenant's arrival in England, I learnt of Trelawney's safe arrival at Cephalonia. They had been with him on board the Cambrian. Whitcombe is now with Goura, in high favour. I know not whether he finds, like Marmion, that in the hour of battle, " sinful heart makes feeble hand."

EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL OF AN ARCHITECT.

No. II.-Pompeii and Herculaneum.

pro

May 19.-I am almost afraid to grumble at the annoyances I have met with in obtaining permission to draw at Pompeii, Portici, and the Museum in Naples; for I may be told to look at home and say if the facilities are greater, or rather if the obstructions are less, for a student there, than here. Bad is the best, but this is intolerable. Every person wishing to study at either of these places, must first wait on the ambassador of his own nation, and request him to write to an officer of the King's household, who in process of time orders permissions to be sent by the director of the Museum. I can hardly guess how it may be for those who are neglected by their national protector, since we have trouble enough, and lose an immensity of time, and yet receive the kindest and most immediate attention from the representative of our sovereign here. On the 5th instant, Mr. Hamilton first wrote to the Marchese Ruffo for me, and it was not till the afternoon of this day, that I got my permissions, having been all the time prohibited the making a single line in the Museum, which contains the beautiful marbles and bronzes taken out of Herculaneum. On the receipt of them (my companion had cured his before my return from Sicily) we left Naples for Pompeii; and at five o'clock this evening reached the Taverna del Lapillo, which is on the high road to Salerno, and only separated from the ruins behind it by the mound of ashes and cinders which serves it for a barrier. Here another trouble presented itself—the only bed-room in the house was occupied by a French student, so that we thought we must find lodgings at Torre dell' Annunziata, two miles off: however, the hayloft presented itself to our view; we had it immediately cleared out, swept, and furnished; and without farther ado, took possession. Fleas we have, of course, in abundance; but we should have had a good stock of them anywhere else, and the difference cannot be much. The room is about seventeen feet by nine; it has one window with cross-wood bars and a shutter on the inside; there is a doorway, but no door; it is a loft, and we reach it from the room below by a maimed ladder. That room, which is the vestibule to our apartment, is at the same time the bed-room of the young ladies of the host's family, and the residence of a pig. After having settled this great affair, we presented our permissions at the gate of Pompeii, and took a general view of that singular place before sunset, at which time they close the gates.

20. Before breakfast we went over the excavated parts of the city, with the map and guide-book, to inform ourselves of the various parts, before we began to draw. The ordinary entrance is by the Forum Nundinarium, or market-place, commonly called the soldiers' quarters, in the immediate vicinity of which are the Temple of Hercules, with its peribolus, the two Theatres, the Schools, the Temple of Isis, and the Temple of Esculapius. From this cluster, streets are excavated, leading to the Forum, which is surrounded and partially occupied by public buildings. The south end of it is formed by three buildings, probably offices of Government; on the west are the Basilica, the Temple of Venus, and remains, not completely excavated, of public granaries; on the north is the Temple of Jupiter; and on the east the newly-discovered ruin called the Pantheon, the Court of Justice, the Temple of Mercury, and the Portico of Eumachia. Passing out of the Forum, between the Temple of Jupiter and the Pantheon, a short street leads to the Temple of Fortune, from the front of which, by taking a wes terly course, you pass the house of Pansa, and get into the principal street leading through the gate towards Herculaneum, and the street of the tombs, leaving to the right and left a large mass of houses and shops which have

been completely excavated. The Amphitheatre stands alone in the extreme south-east angle of the city.

Pompeii, one of the cities of Campania, on the shores of the gulph of the crater, has acquired posthumous celebrity, which its rank alone could never have procured for it. It existed, comparatively unknown, with a variety of fortune, from its foundation by Hercules, till sixty-three years after Christ, when it was greatly injured by an earthquake. From the effects of this it was fast recovering, when a shower of ashes from Vesuvius, during an eruption in the, year 79, almost entirely buried it: one small fragment, like a floating buoy over a foundered wreck, indicated where Pompeii lay. Now and then, during the lapse of more than sixteen centuries, the wonder of a peasant would be excited, by the striking of his mattock against some portion of the skeleton below; but it was not till the year 1748 that the attention of the learned was sufficiently drawn to it, to have regular excavations commenced. Once begun, however, operations have gradually advanced, and well repaid the trouble by the discovery of a Roman city in its pristine state. A more satisfactory mode could not have been devised of letting us into the knowledge of the manners and customs of the ancient masters of the world. Its forum, basilica, temples, theatres, amphitheatre, markets, mansions, shops, and manufactories, are now restored to the light, some more, and others less perfect. It is probable that those of the inhabitants who escaped (certainly a very great majority) excavated after the eruption had ceased, and took away many of their valuables, and in so doing destroyed a great deal by breaking up the roofs, of which, by the way, there are no vestiges in the place. Later eruptions brought the whole to a level, and made the city be completely lost for many ages. Grape vines still trail in rich festoons from poplar to poplar over by far the greatest part of the buried town, and like flowers in the hands of a corpse, look smilingly with death by their side.

The Bourbon rulers of Naples, from the commencement, carried on the excavations with but little spirit, and it was not till the French became its masters that the place was seriously attended to. Little or nothing again was done, from the time they left, till very lately; now the work proceeds gradually, and every day brings to light something new and valuable. Excavations in several parts of the city bear the names of certain great people, for it is a mode they have of doing honour to any royal or otherwise distinguished visitor, by having a new place opened before them, that they may have the gratification of seeing the articles found as they were when the city foundered; generally the result is a comparative blank, but I believe that some of the most valuable discoveries have been made by these fortuitous hits.

The style of architecture throughout Pompeii is far from being first-rate; and there is an air of littleness in all, that perhaps strikes me the more forcibly, having just returned from Pæstum, where the mind is filled with the grandeur and sublimity of the Temple of Neptune; after that, the prettiness of Pompeii has not the charm it might otherwise possess. The sculptured stuccoes and paintings display a fine taste and an elegant imagination; but they were for the most part the work of Greek artists. The architecture of the buildings, both public and private, is generally in very bad taste, and decidedly Roman; there is much more merit in the general arrangements than in the detail, though good parts are to be found both in the city and among the tombs in the Sepulchral Way beyond the walls. I was much struck with a bas-relief on one of the Sarcophagi in that part, as containing the most beautiful allegory imaginable:a vessel has finished her voyage; the passenger seated in the stern relinquishes the helm; the attendant genii are

* The wall of the larger theatre was never completely covered. By the chance finding of a bronze figure.

busied in going aloft to furl the sail; and the soul, as a bird at the mast head, expands her wings to fly away;-the voyage of life is ended!

21st. The usual liberality (bah!) of the Continent, in opposition to our beggarly mode of procedure with respect to public places, museums, and the like, is extensively shown here by locking up ten or twelve of the most interesting parts of the city, to which admission is obtained by paying the custode of each. We who are students and have permission to draw, and of course to see, from the officer appointed by the Government-we too must pay all the fellows who carry keys, or be excluded from almost all that is worth seeing or drawing. Our permissions certainly limit us to things that have been already published; but many of them are under lock, and can only be seen by the application of silver keys. Visitors are obliged to have official ciceroni, who of course must be paid: that of itself would be reasonable enough; but they have also to pay all the fellows who carry keys of locked places. It is not only at Pompeii that such abuses exist at the Museum in Naples you are liable to be insulted if you go a second time without having feed the beggarly hounds who infest it.

We have been engaged to-day in taking the plan of one of the private mansions. In generals the houses of Pompeii agree:-in having one or two atria or quadrangular courts, so that you are not obliged to pass through one room to enter another, as in the houses of modern Italy, but every room opens on one of the courts or on a passage,-in the almost total absence of windows,—and in presenting no indication of a second story, being all on the ground floor, except here and there, where a steep declivity obliged the atrium to be placed below, and then there is found a set of rooms attached to it, and under the apartments on the level of the street. In particulars they do not agree :-in the relative situations of the atria,-the distribution of the apartments, surrounding or not the courts with porticoes, and the like. The house on which we are engaged has two atria; the first, or Tuscan atrium, is entered from a street about fifteen feet in breadth, by a passage thirteen feet long and six wide, having a Mosaic pavement, finished on the inside by the word SALVE in large Roman capitals; the atrium is twentyeight feet by twenty-two feet nine inches, and has in the middle a compluvium or reservoir five feet seven inches by four feet two inches. A passage or vestibule leads from the Tuscan, to the Corinthian atrium, which is forty-nine feet by thirty-nine, and has a covered portico all round; the rooms which surround it are painted and finished in the most elegant taste: a very large one (thirty-four feet by seventeen) had its walls covered with perspective views; but the choicest pictures have been cut out and taken away to Portici. The floors are all in Mosaic, some plain, and others ornamented with dots, frets, labyrinths, flowers, and the like, generally made up of black and white, but sometimes with a greater variety of colours.

22. Returning from the gate of the city this morning, whither I had been to see my old companions, who had just returned with their new ones from a tour through the Islands, I went into the newly discovered edifice called the Pantheon. It is quadrangular, and nearly equilateral, and has three entrances-two on two of the sides from streets, and the principai, which consists of two doors divided by a pier, opening on the Forum. The east end (opposite the Forum entrance) is divided into three parts, the centre of which has a pedestal against the back wall. The front of this division appears to have been architecturally ornamented. The south apartment (that to the right) has a wall on three of its sides about two feet six inches high, and about the same distance from the walls of the building; the top of this dwarf wall slopes outward, and is plastered all over, and painted red. The north division is, as well as the other two, painted in the Pompeian style, with elegant ornaments, and on the dado are scenes with animals of different species, generally in hunting groups, very spiritedly drawn, and beautifully coloured. The south side of the quadrangle is divided into cells open to the inside, and prettily painted, having a bird or beast of some sort in the

are

centre of a large panel on every hand. Towards the Forum, the inside front is straight; on one half of it the paintings are better, and in better preservation, than any others in the city. Landscapes and history pieces, with architectural compositions, are admirably blended, and produce the most pleasing effects imaginable. The north side is straight also, and has some sweet paintings on it; on the walls of a recess, in which is a door opening into a street, there some chiar'oscuro figures, generally of children in groups, referring, I think, to the story of Cupid and Psyche. The inner part of the quadrangle is sunk, like that of the Serapidon at Pozzuoli, and has a raised pavement in the middle, dodecagonal with a pedestal on each side, probably for statues of the twelve great gods. This, I suppose, has given rise to the name Pantheon for this place, for I see nothing else to warrant it. There is no plan yet published of this interesting structure, and for that reason they will not allow us to make one of it.

-23d. We walked to Torre del Greco this morning, and took a calash thence to Resina, where we dined; and having made the best bargain we could for the service of a guide and two asses, we bestrode the latter and started for Vesuvius. My legs being almost as long as Maccaroni was high, I had to be careful that my feet did not trail on the ground; but Maccaroni trudged on merrily, and did not heed it: when I offended him, he would prick up his long ears, put his nose between his legs and throw out behind, in the vain hope of throwing me out before. About an hour brought us to the Hermitage, a house with accommodations for travellers, pleasantly situated on the brow of a long hill between two valleys, down which the lava from the mountain generally takes its course. Two men live there and are called hermits; but, in fact, the house is an inn, and the men are the innkeepers; the one whom we saw, from the answers he gave to some of our inquiries, appears to be a very ignorant man; he was dressed in the habit of the Capuchins. Leaving the Hermitage, the path leads along the ridge of the hill behind it for some distance, and then traverses the fields of lava to the foot of the cone. On arriving there we dismounted, and began the steep ascent on foot; my companion had the assistance of the guide, and I had that of a long stick. In some parts the footing is hard and firm; sometimes a mass of stone may be stepped on with dubious security, for, being imbedded in loose ashes and cinders, the tenure is but too frail; the chance of falling on your nose by the slipping of a stone, is better, however, than walking through the ashes and cinders themselves, in which you take three steps to make the progress of one. In the ascent we rested thrice, and were about thirty-five minutes from the base of the cone to its summit. Standing on the edge of the crater, as the custom is, we first drank a bottle of Lacrima Cristi, and then walked round to observe it in all parts. The loose and broken, black and precipitous sides, shelve but little, and only in some places, down to an arena, level, and apparently hard like the sea-shore; at the depth of at least two-thirds of the cone, which thus becomes a mere shell. Incessantly, concussions take place by the breaking out of sulphurous vapour in fresh places, and although very slight, they occasion the stones to move, and go rattling in showers down into the arena, sounding as they trundle along like an irregular discharge of musquetry. An echo clearly repeats a whistle or a shout, but after a greater length of time than any other I ever heard. Terrible though it may appear within, the view without is grand and beautiful : the whole gulph, with its promontories and islands, and the cities and villages on its shores, were all spread out before us; clouds, which were under our feet, covered the plain between Naples and the mountains; but the snowy Apennines themselves appeared behind, stretching along and directing the eye towards Gaeta, where the view was bounded. We remained on the summit of the mountain till near sunset, when, seeing no chance of a particularly fine oue, and our feet being nigh burned with the scorching heat of the burning matter under them, we drank a second flask of the mountain wine, and in five minutes after were at the base of the cone.